[sspence]

I'm new to the site so I apologize if I'm asking a question that has already been answered.
I have a 1988 F-250 with the 7.3 IDI. It starts ok in the morning or any time it's cold but after it has been driven and then shut off for 30 minutes or so, it almost runs the batteries down getting started. Once it starts, it doesn't sputter or anything. It runs good. Anytime the "wait to start" light doesn't come on I know it's going to be hard to start. If the light does come on, it will start ok. When I say ok, it doesn't just jump to life but it starts after a few seconds of turning over. If I try to start immediately after shutting it off it starts right up quickly. So far I've had the lift pump, injector pump, glow plugs, control module, relay, injectors, return lines and caps and starter replaced. Should my "wait to start" light always come on when starting or just until it warms up enough? Could this be a lack of compression?

 

[arthurgoboom]

Typically hard starts when hot are a sign of a failing injection pump, but you said you already replaced that. Who was the rebuilder of your IP, and how long ago was it? Usually if it's hot, the pistons are swelled just a bit and it should have more compression. How many miles on the engine?

 

[Snotzalot]

The wait to start light comes on every time, 30 minutes after running you don't need the gp's to restart. Before you go berserk I'd try ANOTHER starter. I just had similar symptoms and it was the starter.

 

[sspence]

My wait to start light doesn't come on at all when the motor is hot. Is there anything that actually gets a signal from this light like a fuel solenoid? I really feel like it's a fuel delivery problem. The starter turns over really good and fast. If it was the IP, would it have other symptoms? I'm going to try squirting some fuel into the air intake and see if it hits. I was told that ether would damage my glow plugs. Wouldn't that tell me if it is a fuel delivery problem? This is my first diesel by the way.

 

[94_turbo]

sspence--when the truck is warm---pour some tepid water over the pump when off--wait about 1 min--then try to start truck--starts--BAD inj pump--period--dont care who rebuilt it--too much clearance in the internal pressure ring---

 

[sspence]

I'll try it today. Thanks

 

[Snotzalot]

That's a good way to ruin your pump.

 

[sspence]

Please elaborate.

 

[greenfuel]

[ QUOTE ]
Please elaborate.

[/ QUOTE ]PLEASE DO IM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 89 7.3 WITH A REBUILT PUMP FROM DIESEL PERFORMANCE ON EBEY AND MY WARANTY HAS JUST RAN OUT

 

[blackestate]

He said if the WTS light does not come on it is hard to start.
I would still be looking at the GP circuit.

After 30 min the WTS light should come on. How long is the WTS light on in the morning?

If your block heater is working, come home park it, plug it in, and try it again in 30-40 min. See if it helps.

 

[Snotzalot]

Spraying a hot IP with water will "warp" the pump and it will definitely be bad.

 

[greenfuel]

WHAT WOULD MAKE A IP NOT WORK WHEN HOT ?

 

[kipamore]

I had a similar symptom, but I don't think it's the same problem. Cold starts were okay, but it took many minutes (!) of cranking to get it started when warm. The issue was air in the fuel lines. It's possible that this your problem, but not very likely.

With me, it seemed that when the fast idle and cold timing advance were engaged, I had an easier time starting, even if the engine was hot. Since it's a simple fix, you might want to try running a hot wire to the CTA and fast idle. The wiring is right on the injection pump, and the two are wired together and get power from a temp switch toward the back of the block. I say it's worth a shot.

Kip on Truckin'

 

[cdnsarguy]

First if the IP is new NEVER pour cold water on it.... sounds like air intrusion and fuel draining off should be checked first. Visit my gallery for the pic of the steel line seals. They could be part of the problem in they were not replaced. Then visit the page below for good air intrusion areas and the clear hose check........

http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi.htm

There seems to be some confusion as to when the GPs are activated, below is the way they work on a 7.3.....


How ...The Solid State Circuit Works ........

This is 93 info, but other than the "maxi fuse" operation is same.


The Glow Plug Control circuit applies power to the Glow Plugs, which heat the combustion chambers so that the diesel engine can be started.

Glow Plug Controller
The solid-state Glow Plug Controller, attached to the top of the engine block, controls the Glow Plug pre-glow and after-glow time. It also controls the circuit's operation by sensing engine temperature, Glow Plug voltage and after-glow voltage from the start/run circuit.

When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied through the Glow Plug Controller to the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp.

The Glow Plugs heat up in zero to fifteen seconds, depending on engine coolant temperature. After the Glow Plugs heat up, the controller cycling switch opens and turns the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp off. The Glow Plugs are now warm enough for the engine to be started.

At the same time the Ignition Switch is turned to RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied to the after-glow timer (located inside the Glow Plug Controller). The after-glow timer cycles the Glow Plugs for up to two minutes, depending on engine temperature. The after-glow timer then opens. The Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp will not light during the after-glow period.

If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF, it can be turned to ON immediately, and the Glow Plug heating cycle will start again.

Diesel Start/Run
The diesel engine uses two batteries to provide extra power for starting and glow plug heating. Power is applied from the batteries, through heavy gauge wires, to the Starter Solenoid (located in the Starter Motor assembly). When the Wait-To-Start Indicator goes out, the Ignition Switch can be turned to START.

With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, voltage is supplied to the Fuel Heater, Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, and the Engine Temperature Switch through Maxi-fuses K and U.

The Fuel Heater is in the Fuel Filter/Separator. It heats the diesel fuel, melting any wax that might clog the filter. The heater has an internal thermostat to turn it on as needed.

The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid controls the flow of fuel into the injection pump. With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, the Solenoid is energized, and fuel is allowed to flow into the injection pump. When the Ignition Switch is turned off, the solenoid is deenergized, fuel flow stops, and the engine stops running.

The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112 °F (44 °C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This denergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.

To start turn key on press fuel pedal to the floor, then if above 30*F hold at 1/2 throttle, if below 30*F hold at 3/4-full throttle start engine. Once started release the fuel pedal to the fast idle setting or feather pedal to keep running.

 

[greenfuel]

i seen this(The cold advance solenoid also aids in purging air from the injection pump) on the link you posted can you explain what it does exactly