I'm coming up on 145k miles and I'm needing to replace my brake pads again and possibly replace my rotors. The last time I did it I had to turn the rotors due to slight warping and wear. This time I am contiplating replacing all four with drilled and slotted rotors. Has anyone repalced theirs with this type of rotor and if so is there a heavier duty one over the other. I pull a 30ft toy hauler so I am looking for the maximum braking capability.
Heavy Duty Brake Rotors
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I just replaced mine with slotted Powerslot rotors up front and Hawk pads front and rear. I did not see a need to use the slotted on the rear. I would not recommend the crossdrilled rotors for a heavy duty application. I noticed better braking and am happy with the set up. I pull everything and everything with my truck. I see you pull a 30ft. toyhauler. Does it have brakes? If the brakes are functioning properly on your trailer, there is really no need for anything out of the ordinary on the tow vehicle. Moreover, if your trailer does not have good brakes, or any at all, it does not matter what type of pads/rotors the tow vehicle has, it simply will not stop the load....at least that over max gvw.
Another vote for the Powerslots. At 145k and only on your second set of pads, I'd say you were doing allright. Getting rid of the OEM rotors that started chattering after 28K /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif sure makes my ride more comfortable and a whole lot safer.
Sea and Rod,
Thanks for the input and suggestions I've been looking at the powerslots and I think I found them on line for about $270/280 a pair something that had a pad deal included. Yes my toy hauler and bike trailer both have brakes but I want to do all I can with the truck system to assist them. Thanks again for your help.
Thanks for the input and suggestions I've been looking at the powerslots and I think I found them on line for about $270/280 a pair something that had a pad deal included. Yes my toy hauler and bike trailer both have brakes but I want to do all I can with the truck system to assist them. Thanks again for your help.
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Don't fall for buying the Super Dupper pads from Hawks. I did and I got an extreme pull to one side. I ended up replacing Calipers and installing SS brake lines trying to fix the problem when all along it was the pads. Our trucks are not heavy enough to properly bed the pads, they are made for welding trucks or trucks that carry heavy loads, on the truck itself. You want the LTS pads, nothing else, at least from Hawks. I used the Cyro'd rotors and if you want the most stable rotor I suggest you do as well. I also tow a 30ft TT and it stops just fine. No more shak'in/brak'in. Years ago the drilled rotors had a huge problem with cracking, Roto Pros are the only company I would trust buying drilled rotors from, they seem to have fixed the problem. Many on the forum have been happy with them as they are 1/2 the price as the powerslots. I can only speak for what I have tried and I highly suggest the Cyro'd powerslots with LTS pads. Check your PM's for more info.
NCHornet
NCHornet
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I am going to need to replace my rotors on my F350 Dually soon could you give me a web site where you found the powerslots.
Thank You
TIM
Thank You
TIM
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3,728 Posts
All you that think that Powerslots and Hawks are the only answer to brakes for our trucks are dead wrong. My Rotorpro drilled and slotted rotors and their no-dust pads have worked flawlessly for almost 50k and show almost no wear. I tow, go through mud, snow, ice, and salt with the best braking I have ever had on this truck, now with a total of 180k. I had cyro'd ART's and Hawk pads before this and they lasted 40k. Regardless of which rotors and pads you decide to use, I would highly recommend that you either rebuild yourself or purchase a set of rebuilt calipers and flush your system with Racing Super Blue Dot 4 fluid.
www.rotorpros.com
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
www.rotorpros.com
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
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583 Posts
Just HOW hot does a rotor need to get before it would benefit from Slots? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
Because my new Slotted & Cryo'd Powerslots are sure working well for me!!
JR44
Because my new Slotted & Cryo'd Powerslots are sure working well for me!!
JR44
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Actually it's the friction material that benefits from slots. At what temperature it starts to benefit from depends on the pad composition, and what the past exposure to heat has been, changing the organic constituents to carbon.
A true organic composition may benefit when it's green at 500°F, while after it's initial exposure may be more like 700°F. A high inorganic composition pad may benefit the first time at 900°F, then later at 1200°F. Severe duty pads possibly not until 1500-1700°F, but they won't like driving around the countryside.
The slots allow the decomposition gases of brake material (formaldehyde, ammonia, etc) to dissipate from the rubbing surface.
How hot do you think your getting your rotors to?
A true organic composition may benefit when it's green at 500°F, while after it's initial exposure may be more like 700°F. A high inorganic composition pad may benefit the first time at 900°F, then later at 1200°F. Severe duty pads possibly not until 1500-1700°F, but they won't like driving around the countryside.
The slots allow the decomposition gases of brake material (formaldehyde, ammonia, etc) to dissipate from the rubbing surface.
How hot do you think your getting your rotors to?
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Years ago the drilled rotors had a huge problem with cracking,
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Drilled SD rotors don't crack because they don't get hot enough to crack. They also don't get hot enough to benefit from holes or slots.
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Maybe not in Oklahoma, but the mountains of California, Idaho, Wyoming and West Virginia will test them rotors, I guarentee it. The drilled and slotted rotors from rotorpros, IMHO, seem to recover alot faster than stockers, for sure. If they are better than Powerslots, I can't say, as I have never tried them. I did have a set of ART slotted and I believe my rotorpros drilled and slotted are every bit as good if not better. I got 40k out of my ART's and now have 50k on my rotorpros and still looking good and performing the best I have experienced in 180k of running this truck.
[ QUOTE ]
Years ago the drilled rotors had a huge problem with cracking,
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Drilled SD rotors don't crack because they don't get hot enough to crack. They also don't get hot enough to benefit from holes or slots.
[/ QUOTE ]
Maybe not in Oklahoma, but the mountains of California, Idaho, Wyoming and West Virginia will test them rotors, I guarentee it. The drilled and slotted rotors from rotorpros, IMHO, seem to recover alot faster than stockers, for sure. If they are better than Powerslots, I can't say, as I have never tried them. I did have a set of ART slotted and I believe my rotorpros drilled and slotted are every bit as good if not better. I got 40k out of my ART's and now have 50k on my rotorpros and still looking good and performing the best I have experienced in 180k of running this truck.
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Maybe not in Oklahoma, but the mountains of California, Idaho, Wyoming and West Virginia will test them rotors, I guarentee it.
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So how hot have your rotors been?
I believe I remember seeing some data on a SRW F-350 test. Test was done at max GVW which was 9,900 lbs. 0-60-0 15 times in 7.5 min. The temps only got to 1,000°. No doubt real hills will heat brakes more than Oklahoma hills. But when driving in those hills one generally attempts to keep them as cool as possible. If I understand all this correctly you can make a general assumption. If you can't smell them your holes and slots aren't a benefit.
Maybe not in Oklahoma, but the mountains of California, Idaho, Wyoming and West Virginia will test them rotors, I guarentee it.
[/ QUOTE ]
So how hot have your rotors been?
I believe I remember seeing some data on a SRW F-350 test. Test was done at max GVW which was 9,900 lbs. 0-60-0 15 times in 7.5 min. The temps only got to 1,000°. No doubt real hills will heat brakes more than Oklahoma hills. But when driving in those hills one generally attempts to keep them as cool as possible. If I understand all this correctly you can make a general assumption. If you can't smell them your holes and slots aren't a benefit.
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