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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
HELP! 2003 F250 SD 7.3 manual 6spd no power after 20 minutes driving

Hey ALL,

been a minute since we have been on here but stuck at the moment.

Thanks for All the help ahead of time. Started out yesterday evening
towards the church which is about a 28 minute ride and after about 20 minutes
i noticed a loss in power in which the truck was at 20mph with 2200 rpm and the pedal
to the floor. Codes with AE are P0475 and earlier P1247 with a reading of a low turbo boost.
The link below is exactly what it did and i got a lift home on a roll back. The youtube never answers
what it was just some thoughts from others. WE cleared codes today and ran it again and
after 21 minutes it started losing power and chugging again and made it home. WE changed the map sensor this afternoon just for kicks and cleared codes this evening and ran it for 21 minutes and started chugging again. Just changed CPS on Saturday as it felt sluggish then. It is not throwing
a check engine light. Definitely need to change out the screens as we haven't done that yet. So doing that this weekend. If you have had this happen in the past can you let us know what you did to correct. Thanks so much! Appreciate The Help!

ADD IN: IT WAS BLOWING OUT SOME BLUE SMOKE ON SATURDAY AND SUNDAY ALSO Before IT STARTED ACTING UP.

 

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Whats the fuel level at? Did you try to add fuel. Oil level good? Good flow to the fuel bowl?
 

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20 mph @ 2200 rpm?
Were you in granny gear?
I'd agree that you should check fuel delivery.

Here's your codes:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Backpressure Valve Malfunction - Possibly getting a signal to close when it shouldn't. Maybe a short between circuits.
P1247 Turbo Boost Pressure Low - could be caused by the EBP closing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
hey Kevin,

was in 4th gear 20 mph 2200 was at 75 before it dropped and was in 5th and shifted all the way down to
2nd before i pulled off. Checked fuel to the bowl and that part is good. Dave and i have been doing some research
and he was thinking the valve was closing when it shouldn't as well. Which circuits or what needs to be changed out to make it stay open when it is supposed to. Thanks so much!


It was blowing out some blue smoke before all of this started.
 

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Maybe try unplugging the exhaust back pressure sensor and test.
 

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Hey Kevin the code on AE was also reading Exhaust Pressure Control Valve does that help?
You have AE? I forgot that little fact when we were talking. OK - set it up to read IC pressure, IPR duty cycle, RPM, throttle position, MAP, and EBP. Anything else you want. Take it for a drive. When it starts acting up, hit record and get about a minutes worth of data. Then send it to me or post it. Maybe we can rule out some stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Dave, you talked me into in 2015 when we changed injectors.
just saw this and will do this when i get back in this evening.
Changed the fan and fan clutch today as well as
as the EBP Sensor and Tube as well. Drove it and it started acting up at 12 minutes
today 3rd gear and 20 mph at 2200 rpm's. It shut down once i got back into the neighborhood then
it sat for 3 minutes and fired up and had boost again and got it home. So back to the drawing board.
 

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Just ran codes from earlier run: P0475 still shows up saying Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
Try unplugging the EBP solenoid at the base of the turbo pedestal. That will prevent the electrics from closing the valve (short or otherwise). The two wires to the solenoid are Grey/red (powered from the PCM) and Black/white (ground). They are bundled together to go thru the 42 pin connector and to the PCM. IIRC, the PCM sends a pulsed voltage to the solenoid to close the EBPV. If the grey/red wire gets shorted to either a 5V or 12V signal, it'll slam the EBP shut. Might be a bugger to track down an intermittent short between circuits though.

Hope you can get it figured out.
Dave's suggestion of recording parameters with AE makes a lot of sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Kevin! WE ran diagnostics this evening on AE. Hopefully we will know something by tomorrow! Appreciate the help!
 

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So, this is the recording we made last night. Tried to record everything that could affect the EBPV or be affected by the EBPV. If you notice, the EBP never strays above a couple of points above MAP which is normal. The EPBV duty cycle never comes off of zero. Engine oil temperature is reasonable and never abruptly changes. Same with IAT. What does happen, right at the 9:46:23 time, is the IPR duty cycle spikes without a correlating increase in IC pressure. That tells me the IPR solenoid lost its grip on the IPR valve. So the plan is to test a new IPR solenoid on the truck this morning and see what happens.
 

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Yep, I agree. The IPR signal isn't being responded to correctly.
There were a few earlier momentary spikes as well. There is a possibility it's an issue with the ICP signal as well. Maybe an intermittent short that's caused by heat from the engine. Might try a run with the ICP unplugged if the IPR solenoid changeout doesn't do the trick.

Another instance where AE pays off.
 

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We should be so lucky. New IPR didn’t help. He’s made separate runs with every sensor unplugged one by one. No change. Still could be fuel pressure. IPR will spike when fuel pressure dips, but I would have expected IC pressure to come up as well.


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Here's what I see...

1. ZF-6 Manual transmission
2. 20mph
3. 2200 RPM

Conclusion: Your clutch is slipping.
Nope. A slipping clutch won't make the engine run like crap.
If you've ever had a clutch go on you, you'd realize it's easy to recognize.
 

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Nope. A slipping clutch won't make the engine run like crap.
If you've ever had a clutch go on you, you'd realize it's easy to recognize.

I get that, had two clutches go on me due to oil leaks but how do you explain 20mph at 2200rpm with a manual transmission ?
 

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I get that, had two clutches go on me due to oil leaks but how do you explain 20mph at 2200rpm with a manual transmission ?
Saltypop did't explain that very well. I think he meant the problem started when he got to 2200 rpm and THEN wound up down at 20 MPH.
I asked if he was in granny gear, which would be the only other way he'd be at 2200 rpm AND going 20 MPH.
 

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Does it only do it when it's cold? And after driving around for 20 min it goes to shut? Kind of sounds like either the fuel is not being sent to the motor when needed or your oil is low pressure or maybe a bad compression. I'd check compression Just to get pistons out of the way. Change your oil and fuel...


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