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getting into car hauling business,just got an f350 diesel bone stock,should i leave it stock or should i do some modifications like air intake cold system,a chip and a 5" exhaust system. looking for better mpg fuel ratings but also realibility and durability,or should i leave bone stock.what should i expect in mpg out of stock tunning or doing mods,please advice thanks in advance....
Lester
 

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What year truck?

What transmission?

What gears?

2-wheel or 4-wheel drive?

What kind of trailer and how big? (one car flat, three car wedge, etc.)

MPG will depend on many things, first the load you haul (one car, two or three) second how heavy your right foot is, third how fast you run. Too many variables really to give you a good estimate, especially without all the truck information.

Open exhaust and intake plus a chip (especially a custom burn for your truck and your use) will help your power and MPG quite a bit.

Dave / Believer45
 

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sorry,but here are the specs..
2001 f350 7.3diesel a/t 2wd dont know about gears i guess factory......trailer is a 48 ft general trailer 3-4 car trailer (wegde)thanks for all the help i could get thanks.
Lester
 

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I hope your truck is a dually, else you'll be overloaded with a 3-car wedge.

And a 48' wedge is a 3-car trailer if the average car is only 16' long and you load without any overhang. Only a few cars are shorter than 16', and most are longer.

You first step is gauges. Minimum of a pre-turbo pyrometer and a tranny temp gauge. I like my ISSPRO EV gauges, and suspect you will too.

After gauges, then Rule 1 is to never allow more than 225° tranny temp or 1,250° exhaust gas temp (EGT). So it doesn't matter which order you add the other options, but here's how I'd do it:

1. Intake. If you can stand the additional racket from under the hood, then the least expensive but suitable intake is to replace the stock air box with a Tymar clone intake, or a real Tymar intake. But for a bit over $200 you can buy the much quieter and more effective Ford Extreme Duty Air Induction System (AIS).

2. Exhaust. The least expensive is to replace the stock muffler with a Walker Big Truck Muffler #21470. But slightly better is a 4" turbo-back performance exhaust system. The parts for an ugly 409 stainless steel exhaust systm is $300 up. An alumized steel system is a bit cheaper, but it will probably rust out in a few years.

3.Towing tune. For your use I would want a 60-tow tune from DP-Tuner. There are several ways to get that tune - chip, or programmer, or flashed PCM. Call DP-Tuner and ask them which option would be best for your needs.

With gauges, intake, exhaust, and a towing tune, then you'll enjoy your truck a lot more and your engine will last as long as a stock engine if you follow the rules and never allow more than 1,250° pre-turbo EGT.

The tranny is the weak point in your drive train, but you can maximize the life of the tranny if you never allow more than about 225° tranny temp and change the ATF every 30,000 miles.
 

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should i do some modifications like air intake cold system,a chip and a 5" exhaust system. looking for better mpg fuel ratings but also realibility and durability
Anything that adds power decreases reliability and durability. That is an engineering fact. Now we'll hear from people that have increased power and haven't broken anything. That's meaningless. It can be demonstrated mathematically and by long term testing that what I said is true.

You need to decide which is more important, the increased power and MAYBE fuel economy, or reliability and durability. Do you want to make the trip faster and get there most of the time, or slow down a bit and get there every time? I would think durability and reliability are the most important things when you're running a business.
 

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Another fact: almost any engine modification which increases power - that includes chips & programs today - will also increase fuel consumption.

One thing that is a win-win proposition is synthetic oil in the transmission and rear axle. It reduces friction, lowers the temperature and is more tolerant of high temperatures. This is not to suggest that the rest of the transmission will tolerate high temperatures just because it's filled with synthetic ATF - the clutches, seals, o-rings, solenoid winding insulation and a myriad of other parts remain vulnerable to the heat.

Synthetic oil in the engine will provide the same performance benefits, but it's probably a money-losing proposition with the short oil-change intervals necessary. Synthetic oil doesn't extend the oil-change interval because it's driven more by contamination than oil breakdown.

Low-pressure-drop intake & exhaust modifications boost the maximum available power by reducing backpressure losses. They won't be nearly as effective at increasing fuel economy. Because the intake & exhaust flow rate while cruising is much less then it is at pedal-to-the-metal, the pressure drop of stock intakes & exhausts is also much less.

The single biggest factor affecting fuel economy is driver discipline. Large fleets routinely see a 40% difference in fuel use between their worst driver and their best. Use your cruise control, factor in the wind and keep meticulous records. If this engine has an OBD-II port, (I don't remember which year that was implemented) get yourself a data display device and read up on "hypermiling". (Wikipedia) Even a 10 or 20% savings will make a big difference in your bottom line when you're burning 300-500 gallons per week. It may sound counter-intuitive, but you can often make more profit by driving fewer miles.

The next thing I notice about a wedge carhauler trailer is the aerodynamic nightmare. I suspect an aerodynamic makeover could reduce fuel consumption by at least 20%. An air deflector on the roof of the truck, a bulbous nose on the trailer, paneling over the trusswork underneath, fairings over the wheels, loading the shortest car first, facing aft, and stretching a tarp(s) over the cars after they're tied down. With a little extra work, you could install a sleeping berth amidst the paneled-in trusswork underneath, like a Japanese capsule hotel. No room to stand up, but plenty of length to stretch out.

If you're just getting into the business, I'd suggest initially laying out the minimum amount of cash possible until you get a feel for things. Several months on the road and reviewing your books will tell you what you need way better than any amount of Internet advice.

Ultimately, you need to make the decision whether you're going to be a truck & engine enthusiast or a businessman. Chrome & stainless steel may fulfill the ego but they empty the wallet.
 

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sorry,but here are the specs..
2001 f350 7.3diesel a/t 2wd dont know about gears i guess factory......trailer is a 48 ft general trailer 3-4 car trailer (wegde)thanks for all the help i could get thanks.
Lester
I would highly recommend a bigger truck, like a medium duty, properly speced. A F350 dually can do the job, but in the real world, it is not enough truck. A 7.3, and the tranny built by BTS can do the job, but a dually with a Dana 80 rear, will not hold up for heavy commercial use. Brakes, even upgraded, will require more maintenance. Putting on 10K miles a month or so, is heavy useage. Light commercial usage, a properly set up 7.3 dually can do the job. The reality, a medium duty with a sleeper should be the minimum tool for the job. My 02 F350 dually has worked it's butt off, and is highly modified for the job. It has performed well for 765,000 miles, but in reality, it is too small for the intended useage. The motor, and BTS tranny are strong. It is the brakes, diff bearings, front hubs, are the weak links. I am not trying to rain on your parade, but the facts, are the facts.
 

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Anything that adds power decreases reliability and durability. That is an engineering fact. Now we'll hear from people that have increased power and haven't broken anything. That's meaningless. It can be demonstrated mathematically and by long term testing that what I said is true.
With a bunch of caveats, yes. But one of those caveats is that the stock engine is already tuned for optimim efficiency and power with only a tiny fudge factor, or what you engineers call a safety margin.

But a 7.3L PSD tuned for only 235 to 250 horses is not tuned at the factory for optimum efficiency and power. There is a huge fudge factor built in. The engine can handle up to about 300 horses without reducing the longevity or reliability of the engine, provided the engine is never allowed to get too hot and the boost is never allowed to exceed 25 PSI.

The factory tune is limited to not produce too much boost or heat, so the driver doesn't even need gauges. The max boost a stock engine/turbo can produce is about 17 PSI, or way below the 25 PSI redline. The max heat a stock tune will produce is right around the 1,250º pre-turbo max. So Ford saves the cost of a real pyrometer and boost gauge and doesn't have to worry about a customer melting a piston or blowing up a turbo.

The factory tune includes a subroutine to prevent way too much boost. At around 27 PSI, the computer cuts off the fuel. They don't have such a subroutine for exhaust gas temp (EGT). Although technically feasible, I guess it would cost too much for the Ford bean counters to approve the change.

So rule one of increasing power without reducing longivety and reliability is you must have a good pre-turbo pyrometer and boost gauge, and NEVER exceed the red lines for boost or EGT. The best towing tunes are not idiot proof and will provide too much boost and/or heat if the idiot behind the wheel doesn't drive by the gauges.

Towing with my mild towing tune is much more pleasurable than with the factory tune. That's mainly because when grossing around 16,000 to 17,500 pounds the power curve of the factory tune doesn't allow cruising at less than 1,900 RPM without the automagic tranny downshifting for every little bump in the road. But that's 67 MPH with stock-size tires, which is too fast for good fuel mileage while towing. With my tune, I can cruise at 1,800 RPM (62 MPH) while grossing 16,000 to 17,500 pounds and the tranny won't downshift except for serious grades.
 

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With a bunch of caveats, yes. But one of those caveats is that the stock engine is already tuned for optimim efficiency and power with only a tiny fudge factor, or what you engineers call a safety margin.
No, that's not true.

It is true that the engine is NOT tuned for optimum efficiency. It can do better, but at the expense of reliability. If you are willing to take a hit in reliability you can get more power.

And you totally ignored the rest of the drivetrain. How does the flex plate, torque converter, transmission, transfer case if 4x4, ujoints, and axle(s) hold up to more power? The answer is that ALL of them have a lowered reliability with more power.

Your post does show the extra monitoring a driver needs to do to not quickly melt their engine into scrap. But it does not address the lowered reliability when adding more power than stock.
 

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Anything that adds power decreases reliability and durability. That is an engineering fact. Now we'll hear from people that have increased power and haven't broken anything. That's meaningless. It can be demonstrated mathematically and by long term testing that what I said is true.
Having been on the opposite end of the spectrum from you (truck mechanic), I couldn't agree more. Saw it time and time again in the real world plus here on this site. Despite a retired Ford rep's warnings, three engine mod experts in the 7.3IDI section grenaded their engines over a 4 month period after as much as telling the Ford rep he was full of crap regardiing IDI turbo boost, etc. Years ago a friend who owned a logging company and small fleet of heavy trucks practically turned destroying 7.3 IDI turbo engines into a spectator sport. But it was his personal pickup and he DID have fun pushing the envelope.
Bad part is, like Highway Prisoner said, that size pickup is going to be borderline anyway.
 
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