[jsadamson1]

Hey guys,

Here is my issue, my truck will not stay cool. It creeps up to A and L on normal. Mind you I am towing a trailer with 2 cars, but this is normal for me. What happens is it slowly warms up, when it gets too warm (on the A and L) I pull over, the fan clutch finally kicks on, cools the engine down to the R and M on normal. As soon as I get up to speed, and the fan turns off it starts creeping back up. Even faster on the hills. I have just recently replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap. All fluid is completely new and mixed 50/50. Also, no fluids leak from my truck, and there is no loss of fluid.

Couple questions, how often does your guys fan clutch kick on?
How much resistance should my fan clutch have when trying to free spin it?
how do I fix this?

I am in Gas City, In and need to tow my load back home to Memphis ASAP.

Appreciate you help!

 

[chuckster57]

I have just recently replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap.

What thermostat did you install?

Whenever the thermostat is replaced, it is mandatory that only Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807974C94 thermostat be installed

 

[jsadamson1]

What thermostat did you install?

Whenever the thermostat is replaced, it is mandatory that only Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807974C94 thermostat be installed

Not the motor craft one in your signature. But the one I put in matched the one I took out also.

What is the difference between the one I put n and the motorcraft or navistar?

 

[jsadamson1]

Is the duralast part #4399 from autozone the correct option? There are no ford dealerships where I am at without driving 40 min out of the way.

Also, what about my cooling fan? Since my truck truck seems to cool off just fine when the fan kicks on could it be that it doesn't kick on soon enough? My fan only turns on when driving less than 30 mph.

Thanks for your help

 

[jsadamson1]

Changed to correct thermostat, still overheating, please help

 

[nbkr341]

According to the owners manual as long as the temp gauge doesn't pass "L" there isn't any danger to the engine.

IDI gurus, is this correct?

Mine gets up around "A" all the time during the summer, (empty not towing) haven't had any problems yet.

 

[jsadamson1]

Mine stays on L. When it gets past the A the oil pressure starts to drop. If I kept driving, it would pass L.

Here is some more info, in searching for parts, I could drive around town towing no prob, fan would kick on and it would never pass the M. In fact it would even be as cool as the R. This city driving includes short burst to 55mph. As soon as I get on the hwy, it's a matter of minutes before it's too hot.

 

[drinkypoo]

it's true if you trust the gauge. the factory temp gauge is a sad joke.

 

[jsadamson1]

Well I do know it's getting too hot because my oil pressure drops as the temp gets close to the redline. I can feel a small power loss too

 

[jsadamson1]

Still stuck. Water pump and fan clutch come in at 7. If that doesn't work I will trade it in for a new truck.

 

[chuckster57]

Well I do know it's getting too hot because my oil pressure drops as the temp gets close to the redline. I can feel a small power loss too

If your using the gauges in the dash as your guide, then you really have no idea what is really going on under the hood. Oil pressure for a 7.3 IDI at operating temp is 12-14 @ idle and about 35-40 @ cruising speed.

Engine coolant is normaly at 195-205 and the fan should kick in at about 220. Your temp gauge senser moght be FUBAR and about 95% of the time they fail to the HOT end. I would take a laser point and shoot temp gauge and read the temp as close to the thermostat as you can.

 

[cdnsarguy]

Diesel engine coolant temperature at the top of the radiator where hose attaches after high rpm or under load condition for 20 minutes should be (195-237*F) 91-114*C nice time to have a temperature reading point and shoot tool.

....................................................................................


Coolant temperature guage...

Connect a 73 ohm resistor between the guage lead at the sender and ground. The center line of the needle should fall within the band around the C mark.



If guage tests within calibration replace the sender.

If guage still tests out of calibration replace guage.

 

[jsadamson1]

Well, I have a manual gauge for the oil pressure and have no indication my temp gauge is inaccurate. When my temp gAuge gets to just past L and I pull over, I can hear the fluid boiling and steaming off the overflow. I changed both the water pump and fan clutch yesterday. I cam say that the clutch has much more resistance than the old one. Problem now is that it's all put together and my radiator has sprung a leak. So as of right now i don't even know if I truly fixed the problem

 

[LMJD]

Well, I have a manual gauge for the oil pressure and have no indication my temp gauge is inaccurate.

Yep, my oil pressure gauge has a mind of it's own, but my temp gauge has always been right on the money in relation to whatever the driving conditions were. Same with what few other friends' IDI's I've ridden in.

Couple questions, how often does your guys fan clutch kick on?

Mine will only kick on when the temp gauge finally creeps a little over half way above the normal range. About at the M on NORMAL. After it comes on you can watch the temp gauge slowly creep back down to half way or less then you hear it disengage. It seldom comes on during winter, even when pulling my horse trailer.

 

[chuckster57]

I went back and read

The whole thread again. Have you checked the lower radiator hose? It should have a spring in it that keeps it from collapsing. How old is the radiator? Since it sprung a leak, now is a good time to have it checked for flow and cleaned out.