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Discussion Starter #21
Checked this morning injector lines aren't producing well it's tiny squirt squirt dribble then nothing until I try recranking. Disconnected shut off and got a very low click. Have 2 connectors together the one closest to the radiator clicked the second never made a sound.
 

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That's about all you'll vet out of the lines.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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Following.
As my fuel filter light also comes on but only when it's really cold out.
So it's not a fuel pressure sensor it's a backside vacuum sensor... Good to know
(my fuel is not gelling because we have treated fuel in Canada)
 

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There's no bowl. You probably poured the fuel directly into the intake manifold. The engine will burn that directly; that won't tell you anything about whether the injectors are firing or getting fuel.

To expand on jasper's post, it's the injectors that create the pressure. With the injector in the stream, the whole line is under very high pressure. But if you crack the line and crank, it comes out surprisingly weak.

You mentioned it's soaking the return lines. You mean externally? If so, you have either massive air intrusion, or leaking injectors themselves. Are all the return caps snapped down tight? How old are the return lines/caps/o-rings?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'm unsure of the age however I have new ones on the way they should be here Thursday.

My big issue is the injector lines stop squirting fuel after the initial 2 squirts.

Also I noticed the pump itself is heating up after several cranking attempts . is this normal?

So far I've replaced the 4 rubber fuel lines coming from the tanks the lift pump the fuel filter and removed and replaced the injector pump I did have to retime the ip.
The fuel filter light issue ended up being a collapsing rubber hose.

I have super strong pressure now at the Schrader valve on the filter housing and am getting fuel at the injector lines but it is only on initial start up if I continue turning the engine over the lines quit pumping.

Still not starting it attempts to on initial attempt at starting then each time I spin the engine over it attempts to but that's it
 

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Tell me in detail how you changed the IP.

Did you remove the IP with the gear housing attached to it?

Did you turn the engine over with the IP off ?

What do you mean when you said you lined up the Y marks ?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Tell me in detail how you changed the IP.

Did you remove the IP with the gear housing attached to it?

Did you turn the engine over with the IP off ?

What do you mean when you said you lined up the Y marks ?
I replaced the pump with another one I have to see if it was the pump. At the time I did not know that the pump had to be timed the second pump didn't do anything so I removed it checked on here to see how to install and what I read was the y between the teeth on the engine gear needed to be straight up and the y on the gear tooth on the pump needed to be straight down fitting between the other teeth.

I set the original ip teeth like I read and reinstalled it. And yes I removed the gear housing with the pump as I did not know any better at the time.

I then turned over the engine and had the injector lines barely loose I turned over the engine until the injectors were showing signs of fuel and then tightened the injector lines. Then turned the engine over trying to start the engine.

I later took an injector line loose to see the fuel coming out and how often.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
And yes I did turn the engine over with the ip off but the ignition was off I did this to get the y on the engine gear in the up position
 

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And yes I did turn the engine over with the ip off but the ignition was off I did this to get the y on the engine gear in the up position
I would venture to say that that's why it won't start. The engine can be a 180* out of time if you didn't bring #1 piston up to TDC on the compression stroke. It don't make any difference if you had the IP off or not or the ignition turned Off. If you can see the Y, you have the engine way out of position. The Y on the IP gear has to be in line with the Y on the Cam gear.

The mark on the damper pulley has to be lined up with the O mark on the timing plate, and that is with the engine #1 cyl. TDC on the compression stroke.

The dowel pin slot on the IP will determine it's position and timing.
 

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Trucker87 keep killing it man, dang your a wealth of knowledge.
So it WAS as you said a kinked hose that caused the fuel filter light to come on....i will be tracing my lines when its not -40 outside haha
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Ok. Starting issue and fuel filter issue solved. Got everything timed correctly and replaced all return line components as well as injector crush washers. Got it primed and had to replace an injector that was leaking.

Now truck starts and runs but runs rough and smokes like a train when holding steady throttle.

Could this be pump timing advanced or possibly water getting into oil or intake?

Only thing I removed beside ip and Lp was water pump.
 

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Is that the orriginal IP, or did you replace it? I lost track. The radiator pushing fluid out, as it warms up and with the cap off is pretty much normal, at least from what I've seen on the stuff I've worked on. I don't see any bubbles in it. The smoke and rough running could be from a number of things. What does it do when it increases in RPM? What does it idle like? Does the smoke smell like fuel? I had an advance piston in the IP stick once, it ran sort of like that. Mine ran good at high rpm and under load, but would smoke like it was fogging for mosquitoes at lower RPMs, idle, and coming down from high RPMs. You pulled the timing gear out, How did you line everything back up? There are some write-ups on this forum that describe how to do it without pulling the front of the engine off, but I don't think I would trust them, I would still need to see the marks just to be sure they are right.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Ip is original . I pulled the number one glow plug and bumped the engine over until I got the compression stroke. Used a compression tester for this. Bumped it 2 more times after compression to get marks straight up and down.

Radiator pic was to show oil in water.
Truck barely smokes when idling but very hard to start. The pic of smoke is around 2k rpm.

When I first started the truck it was definitely fuel smoke I added water to radiator and smoke got worse. The truck only ran maybe 2 mins before I added water no long enough to overheat anything.

Pump timing maybe advanced a tad but its very close.

I pulled water pump and found that the water was possibly leaking through the timing cover plate at water pump...

I will let you know if its fixed when I'm done
 

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I also don't see any bubbles but I would look closely to be sure you don't have cavitation.

Ive never seen orange coolant.... But then again I'm from Canada.
 

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I also don't see any bubbles but I would look closely to be sure you don't have cavitation.
You don't "see" cavitation unless you have a bare block and spot the tiny holes in the cylinder walls.
 

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Ip is original . I pulled the number one glow plug and bumped the engine over until I got the compression stroke. Used a compression tester for this. Bumped it 2 more times after compression to get marks straight up and down
OK, you did good getting the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke, but why did you turn the engine over two more times ? It's impossible to see the marks unless you have the whole front cover OFF. The Y mark on the IP gear has to line up (Match) the Y mark on the Cam gear.

Once you have the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke, you have to move the damper pulley MARK to line up exactly in line with theO on the timing tab. Use a 15/16" socket and short extension on the damper pulley bolt to rock the engine back and forth to get the damper pulley MARK to line up with the O. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE STARTER AGAIN.
Now with a marker pen, draw a line straight up and down from the Y mark, now count 17 teeth on each side of the mark and mark them, now draw a line across from them, now drop the gear in so the line is in line to the engine, the Y mark should be facing down, now put the IP gear cover ON, then install the IP, the dowel pin will put the IP in a static timing position, from there the IP should be timed with the proper equipment.
 

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Ip is original . I pulled the number one glow plug and bumped the engine over until I got the compression stroke. Used a compression tester for this. Bumped it 2 more times after compression to get marks straight up and down.

Radiator pic was to show oil in water.
Truck barely smokes when idling but very hard to start. The pic of smoke is around 2k rpm.

When I first started the truck it was definitely fuel smoke I added water to radiator and smoke got worse. The truck only ran maybe 2 mins before I added water no long enough to overheat anything.

Pump timing maybe advanced a tad but its very close.

I pulled water pump and found that the water was possibly leaking through the timing cover plate at water pump...

I will let you know if its fixed when I'm done
If you didn't line up the timing marks, it won'trun worth a crap. It isn't like cold timing an old distributor, You have no idea when the IP is going to send its fuel shot to the cylinder, as you would when watching the ignition points in a distributor. That is why you need to line the marks up by the fatory marks on the gear. The best way to do that is to pull the front off of the engine, and visually make sure they are lined up correctly. There are other ways, but that is the only way that I would trust.
 
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