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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I am using a Davco 234+ filter in front of my A1000, with the 2 micron fleetguard stratopore elements, so I am comfortable that my WVO should be nice and clean before it even gets to my pump. I am now concerned about my pump failing and then taking out my injectors, so I would like to add LOW RESTRICTION, low cost (I am already breaking the bank /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif ) filter after the pump. I am looking for suggestions.

Thanks!
 

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Filter

Part number for filter and head is in the caption.

Have you put a vacume gauge between your pre pump filter and the fuel pump?
I'd be interested to see what kind of restriction that 2 micron davco has to the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have not put a vac. guage on it, but it seemed like it flowed preety well when I was testing it on the bench. It is the 234 plus model, so it is very big. It is over 16" tall, so there is a lot of surface area. Plus you can tell when it is not flowing well enough, because the design raises the fuel level in the clear filter area as the restriction increases.
 

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Hello,
You might want to look into not putting the "good" filter in front of you pump. While you have chosen a very strong pump, I have found the most common failure to be attributed to pre-pump filter restiction, sorry I have no links to prove this. I suppose the pumps are designed to push harder than pull. Pulling cold oil could be similiar to a restricted filter maybe the death of one of these, yet I have not heard of such a thing yet from the vo users. If you look into these "high performance" pumps you will see many pre pump filters for sale that are of a "higher" micron rating than those designed to protect the motor. This has also led me to believe that the pumps are able to pump 40 micron or less "debis" with no issue.

I am in the process of purchasing the final parts for my conversion, I have got the A1000, sx 90psi regulator, and Fleetguard coolant heated filter(ebay $75-$100). I'm going to mount the fleetguard filter under the hood as close to the three way valve as possible. I'm going to put a steel mesh (reusable) 40 micron filter where the line exits the vo tank. I'm over engineering the heating aspect of my system. Can't get the oil too hot.

Seems like you're very concerned with the filtering aspects. Just make sure you pre-filter the vo good before putting it into your vehicle. I think making sure the oil is warm enough is just as important, a filter has a lot of surface area to "cool" the oil down. If you live where it is 80 degrees plus I would not be so concerned.

Boy are you right about breaking the bank, but just think. I spend about $5,000-$6,000 in fuel per year and this conversion is going to cost me maybe $1,500. Doesn't take long /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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[ QUOTE ]
I have not put a vac. guage on it, but it seemed like it flowed preety well when I was testing it on the bench. It is the 234 plus model, so it is very big. It is over 16" tall, so there is a lot of surface area. Plus you can tell when it is not flowing well enough, because the design raises the fuel level in the clear filter area as the restriction increases.

[/ QUOTE ]

If you recirculate the FPR bypass back to between the pump and filter, you will reduce the load on the filter considerably as well as minimize stress on the pump. I'm running a Fleetgaurd FS1000 (10 micron) pre pump. If I run the return back to the tank, it will pull over 10 inches vacuum with cold oil. With the return going back to the pump post filter, I have yet to see it do more than barely budge the vac gauge needle.

As to post pump, check FN74's post on the cat filter. Whichever you look into call support and confirm it wont burst or suffer media failure at the pressures you anticipate. Some filters are only good to 40 psi. I decided against post pump on mine for now, FWIW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
[ QUOTE ]
You might want to look into not putting the "good" filter in front of you pump. While you have chosen a very strong pump, I have found the most common failure to be attributed to pre-pump filter restiction, sorry I have no links to prove this.

[/ QUOTE ]

Actually most of the good filters are intended to be used on the vacuum side of the pump. This apparently allows the dewatering / settling chambers to work much better.
 

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You are right about that. My question is how many of these filters were designed specifically for a viscious fluid such as cold vo. I guess that is the value of a guage on the filter, letting one know when to change it. But, can you see the guage or fluid level rise from your seat when the motor's really demanding fluid? I think that is another issue with not going with a looped (to tank) system, no good flow through filter when idling. I suppose one could rev it up while another watches every now and then. If the guage was designed like our air filter minders where it recorded the highest vacume, then I would feel okay inside about that.

What I found was that the pumps seem not to have an issue with pushing. They are constantly being forced (via fuel pressure regulator) not to run full flow. This is what they were designed for. The only failures I could come across were attributed to clogged pre-pump filters. This made me think up putting a low pressure lift pump at the tank then a "good" filter then the high pressure pump. I think it is going to come down to cost for me. The low pressure pump versus the 40 micron pre pump filter.
I'm siding with the low pressure pump the more I think about this.

From what I've read I'd really be surprised if that A1000 has a problem pulling the vo anyways, as long as the vo is not very cold and the filter is kept clean. I'm just trying not to make mine pull too hard, if there is any potiential to burn one of these out I want to design against it.

I think what Joat said about the return looped between the pump and filter is very imoprtant. I am hoping to run my return back to the tank. But that is going to depend on the amount of stress this puts on my pump.

Now that I reread you concern. What are you worried about coming out of you pump? I'd think the pump would just stop working. I could be wrong, but these are costly pumps designed for high horse power motors, I can't imagine the risk in design of allowing anything to fall out of them and keep on pumping it.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies. Here is a link to the filter I am using pre-pump. web page I am using the plus model, which has an even larger filter media, so more available surface area. (Note to potential buyers, this thing is very large, and will take some room for mounting) When I was bench testing my filter / pump setup (no regulator in test setup) with room temperature WVO, it seemed to flow well, with little pump noise. When I shut the unit off, the oil would stay at the same level in the clear canister (internal check valve causing this possibly?). So, yes it seems to work like the filter minder on the air filter.

The reason I am wanting a post filter is because their was another post on here where an A1000 was failing after a few 1000 miles, and seemed to be spitting out metal shavings that could not have gotten past his pre-filter. The cause of this particular failure may have been overheating (the pump was insulated), but regardless, I didn't want to risk my motor with any potential component failures, but I feel the oil itself will be very clean.
 
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