[MORPWRR]

My truck is having issues re-starting when I have been driving it while the temps (outside air and engine/exhaust temp) get high. It only used to do this when towing for a long distance. I would have to wait about 20 minutes for it to cool down then it would start. Now it is to the point where if I drive for more than 10 to 15 minutes, completely unloaded, it won't restart for sometimes upwards of 2 hours. Obviously, this is getting a bit inconvenient.

I talked to a Ford tech and he said to isloate out the starter relay, try removing the cap and wire lead and jump it. When it was hot, nothing happened. After it cooled down, the starter turned over when jumped. So I figured it was the solenoid on the starter, which I promptly repaced. Imagine my surprise when the next time I drove it, same thing happened.

So, if it is not the relay or the started/solenoid, then what can it be? I heard someone say possibly the neutral saftey switch at one time. Is there a way to check that easily?

Any other ideas?

 

[alalor1]

I am assuming you mean that it won't crank with the starter.
You might have a bad connection somewhere, it could even be at the battery post. 20 minutes is pretty fast to cool down.
It could even be the starter, I saw that problem in a 351W, the engine got hot, the starter got hot and it would not crank well, after it cooled down, it cranked fine.I would test what voltage the terminal at the starter is getting, does it click? If you are getting decent voltage (above 11 volts) and it does click, the starter is the one not working, otherwise, start working backwards and checking where you have the voltage drop, both when not trying to crank and when trying to crank. Just be careful not to get hurt!!!

 

[MORPWRR]

Forgot to mention that, no click or anything when I turn the key.

I already replaced the starter and since I have started having this problem I also have 2 new batteries and the terminals are clean and well connected. Jumping the relay didn't work either when hot, so I think I can eliminate both the starter and the relay. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[klhansen]

What Alejandro said, but you need to start on the low amperage control circuits at the starter solenoid (the one on the fender liner). If you get power there when you turn to start, then the problem is most likely that solenoid. If you don't get power there, start working your way upstream on that circuit, neutral safety switch, ignition switch, etc.

You'll probably need another body to help you troubleshoot it, because you can't run the key and the meter/test light at the same time.

 

[MORPWRR]

[ QUOTE ]
What Alejandro said, but you need to start on the low amperage control circuits at the starter solenoid (the one on the fender liner). If you get power there when you turn to start, then the problem is most likely that solenoid. If you don't get power there, start working your way upstream on that circuit, neutral safety switch, ignition switch, etc.

You'll probably need another body to help you troubleshoot it, because you can't run the key and the meter/test light at the same time.

[/ QUOTE ]

Actually, isn't it the relay that is on the fender liner and the solenoid is attached to the starter? If that is the case, as I stated above I already replaced the starter/solenoid combo, and tested the relay by jumping it. If it won't jump when it is hot, then I would presume that I am not getting power to the relay, correct? That would then lead me to believe it might be the neutral safety switch. Any ideas on how to check that?

 

[klhansen]

You're right, the one on the fender liner is called a relay in the book.

Here's how the system works.

The battery power (big honkin' cable) connects to the solenoid on the starter which is switched on by power from the starter relay on the fender liner, which is switched on by power coming thru a smaller gauge wire from (in sequence) power junction box 50A fuse #20 (under hood on 99's), the ignition switch, 15A fuse #20 under the dash (on a 99 anyway), the clutch pedal position switch (or jumper if an automatic), and the Transmission range selector switch (if an auto).

The wire color (at the fender relay) is tan/red (automatic) or Dark Blue/orange (manual) on the 99's.

If you don't have power at that wire at the relay, you have to start working your way back upstream to see what's cutting off your power. If you don't have power at the output side of any of those items, and do a the inlet, then you've found your culprit.

 

[procraft]

Hey before you start all of this trouble shooting read this. I had pretty much the same symptoms on mine and what I finally found out the problem was, it was the battery cable itself. Believe it or not the cable looked fine (of course you can't see the cable itself because it is covered), well the stealer saved the old one and had stripped the outer coating and showed me how the copper cable had pretty much been corroded away. The tech said that when hot the cable would actually start to seperate and would not let enough current past the corroded part.

Just something else to check

 

[MORPWRR]

[ QUOTE ]
You're right, the one on the fender liner is called a relay in the book.

Here's how the system works.

The battery power (big honkin' cable) connects to the solenoid on the starter which is switched on by power from the starter relay on the fender liner, which is switched on by power coming thru a smaller gauge wire from (in sequence) power junction box 50A fuse #20 (under hood on 99's), the ignition switch, 15A fuse #20 under the dash (on a 99 anyway), the clutch pedal position switch (or jumper if an automatic), and the Transmission range selector switch (if an auto).

The wire color (at the fender relay) is tan/red (automatic) or Dark Blue/orange (manual) on the 99's.

If you don't have power at that wire at the relay, you have to start working your way back upstream to see what's cutting off your power. If you don't have power at the output side of any of those items, and do a the inlet, then you've found your culprit.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks, time to break out the meter!

 

[MORPWRR]

[ QUOTE ]
Hey before you start all of this trouble shooting read this. I had pretty much the same symptoms on mine and what I finally found out the problem was, it was the battery cable itself. Believe it or not the cable looked fine (of course you can't see the cable itself because it is covered), well the stealer saved the old one and had stripped the outer coating and showed me how the copper cable had pretty much been corroded away. The tech said that when hot the cable would actually start to seperate and would not let enough current past the corroded part.

Just something else to check

[/ QUOTE ]

Doesn't your truck have 2 batteries? I would think that even if one cable is corroded, it would get enough juice from the other battery to turn it over. That is, unless there is only one cable running to both batteries then I suppose if it is inbetween the starter relay and the first battery it could be suspect. I will check it out among the rest of the suggestions.

 

[MORPWRR]

Thought I would post the results in case anyone else runs into this. Turns out the starter relay was the culprit. When the truck got hot, it would not pass the 12V on to the starter solenoid. After having this problem for so long, come to find out a $33 part fixed it in about 10 minutes.