[hoobaleenyo]

Christmas came and myself got the Arp head stud kit and a set of 7.3l rocker arms. Myself knows how to install the head studs, follow manual and torque to spec, number and so on. Myself needs help on the rocker arms. Do the valves need to be adjusted? Does myself just take off old and put new in ect.. Any suggestions would help greatly.

 

[chuckster57]

Not adjustable. Tighten the hold down bolts to 27 Lb/ft.

 

[hoobaleenyo]

A mechanic said he would have to adjust the valves and that myself couldn't do it without knowledge. So your just saying take off the old ones torque to 27lbs and that's it? The manual says to torque to 20ftlbs.

 

[chuckster57]

All my sources say 27. Tighten them all down and rotate the engine by hand 2 full turns to make sure no pistons and valves hit each other. That's it.

 

[Bill1013]

A mechanic said he would have to adjust the valves and that myself couldn't do it without knowledge. So your just saying take off the old ones torque to 27lbs and that's it? The manual says to torque to 20ftlbs.

Tell that mechanic he don't know crap, the lifters on a diesel are hydraulic roller lifters, YOU OR ANYONE ELSE CANNOT ADJUST THEM, there is no adjustment.

The 20 ft lb torque is for the aluminum hold down straps that came on the 6.9 engines, the 7.3 rockers have a steel hold down strap, torque to 27 ft lbs. as chuckster57 said.

If you roll over the engine so the timing mark on the damper pulley is at 11:00, then all the valves are closed in both heads, then there is very little pressure on the rockers when installing them.

 

[hoobaleenyo]

Thanks for the info guys! Myself will be doing the head bolts and rocker arms when the weather gets better.

 

[hoobaleenyo]

Can myself remove the old head studs, put in the new and tighten the news ones hand tight without removing the head? Then follow torque sequence. or does myself have to remove the heads and all to do the job?

 

[Bill1013]

Can myself remove the old head studs, put in the new and tighten the news ones hand tight without removing the head? Then follow torque sequence. or does myself have to remove the heads and all to do the job?

That my friend is a loaded question.
Why are you changing to ARP studs in the first place?

The normal way is to pull the heads replace the head gaskets, then install the ARP studs.

You can try this.
Remove each head bolt one at a time, according to the torque sequence, then install a stud and torque to specs. It would be the same as re-torqueing the OEM bolts.
ie: remove #1 sequence bolt then install stud. remove #2 sequence bolt then install stud. etc.

No guarantee that it might not develop a head gasket leak. I have heard of doing this on another forum without a problem.

Just use the sequence in step #1 and #2 for each bolt, after all the studs are installed, then check the torque as in steps 3 - 4.

 

[LMJD]

You'd be lucky to get half the studs in with the heads installed. The heater A/C housing and other components don't allow for room. In fact it's been said time after time some right rear head bolts have to be installed in the head, held back with rubber bands, then the head is lowered on to the block due to lack of clearance. And studs are a lot longer than head bolts (not to mention unnecessary).

 

[yan7gin]

HG aren't that expensive. if head bolts remove i would remove heads, get them check and reinstall with new gasket. but that my opinion

 

[chuckster57]

Swapping out head bolts for studs one at a time has been discussed LOTS of times in the 6.0 forum. I maintain that it's better to pull the heads for a good look see and fresh gaskets.

When I did this on my '86 F250 with a 460 I pulled the heads and found everything AOK.

 

[hoobaleenyo]

Myself got the Arp heads studs with the 7.3l arms as a gift so thought put both in at once. Maybe myself will just re torque the original head studs and put the rocker arms on for now. When myself has time will put them on.

 

[yan7gin]

Why re-torquing the bolt? if there is no reason, don't touch them.

what i would do is keep both aside and do the job only once. unless you have some issue right now with the one you have

 

[chuckster57]

I am noticing your signature says you have a 6.9 if that's the case, the 7.3 studs won't work. The 7.3 used bigger diameter bolts. Both engines use head bolts not studs, and even with a turbo studs aren't needed.

 

[LMJD]

Right, Chuckster, I sure wouldn't want to destroy the "gott'a have studs" myth, but I wasted my life away tearing into all the major brands of big truck and heavy equipment diesels and none whatsoever use studs, only headbolts.

 

[hoobaleenyo]

Thanks for your guys opinions! much appreciated. Myself has the stud for the 6.9 but the rocker arms myself has are the 7.3 ones. Myself has a 1977 camper on it and being a prospector that's my work vehicle. Myself is not ever going to turbo the engine and will only be turning up the fuel once my pyrometer is installed.Was reading a while back that the head bolts usually needed to be re torqued at around 45000 miles and that the 7.3l rocker arms are better than the 6.9's. Have you guys ever put in them in and do you think they are actually needed to be changed or should myself leave them as is for now? or sell the head stud kit and just keep the rocker arms? or sell both of them?