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About a month ago we started to notice this high-pitched whine sound when accelerating. It eventually got to where the sound would be constant, so we took it in to the dealer who said it was a sheared bolt on the exhaust manifold. 140k miles, warranty is kaput, $75 in parts for new bolts and gasket(s), had to apparently yank the cab off to fix it, $1600. Got them talked down to $1k though.

A couple of weeks go by, sound came back. It was faint at first, but then it became loud and constant. Took it back to the dealership, their diesel "specialist" took one look under the truck and said "your radiator is gone". Not literally gone, but pretty much fried. Opened the hood and popped the cap off of the coolant reservoir and steam came shooting out. Guy said he has to replace them almost daily on the 6.4. Another $600 there. While working on it he noticed the thermostat was shot, thus causing the failure to the radiator. Another $100 to replace that. He probably knew this was the problem the first time and just got the rest of his money that he "discounted" us.

Just out of curiosity, he pulled the service record off the VIN for all the work that had been done to the truck, including the previous owner of it. The radiator had been replaced at 40k and had gone 100k before needing a new one. The guy said that was a good sign, that the radiators usually go for 50-60k before just giving out. This is happening because these radiators move twice as much water per minute compared to a normal diesel radiator, 70gpm being the norm, 140gpm on the ones for these 6.4's. They just get that hot!

So we think all is good, had the truck for a few days now, and the sound is back. Now what the hell else could it be? A torn or loose hose? The guy we deal with is this dealer's only diesel specialist, he's a nice guy, and they are local. But obviously he either doesn't care, or is just not doing all that is necessary to find the problem. Hell, we pulled the truck off the lot and the AC wouldn't cool. Swung back around and had them recharge it. :icon_rolleyes: Nice guy or not, he's only as honest as the dealership he works for. And we're finding out the dealer is not a good one. We've never bought from them, but they are local.

They guy pulled us aside and said to start looking for a new truck. He said don't touch ANY 6.4 that was built in '07-'08. The majority of problems were fixed on the Gen 3 builds starting in '09. But he said if it were him, he would get an '07 6.0. But like my dad said, going from the '08 to the '07 would be like wiping with sandpaper when you've got Charmin right in front of you. He told us that the pushrods were strengthened in the '07s, or something like that. Can't afford brand spankin' new, but a few slightly used, super low mile '09s are starting to pop up. Heck, even brand new ones that dealers are clearing out for '10 have up to $10k off the sticker. But still, cheapest we've found is still $20k more than we spent on the one we've got now. But...about $3k has been spent on this truck since buying it in Feb. So it's almost justified to have a $200 a month more payment for a truck that's not constantly in the shop.


Oh, and get this, the tech also told us this. The way the lines are routed and hooked up to the computer and guages..you will never know the truck is overheating. We didn't know ours was because the temp guage stayed in the normal position the entire time. He said Ford knows these problems, and basically since they didn't build the engine, they don't give a crap what happens to it. Hence why they are building the Scorpion 6.7. But you guys already knew that. :thumbsup: It still sucks though for us guys that own these trucks and are stuck with them. At least you low mileage owners still have the factory warranty to cover your butt. Be thankful for that. It's a great truck, when it's working. It would be a kick in the balls to have to go back to a Cummins. Good engine (pre BlueTec), but a crappy truck wrapped around it.
 

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About a month ago we started to notice this high-pitched whine sound when accelerating. It eventually got to where the sound would be constant, so we took it in to the dealer who said it was a sheared bolt on the exhaust manifold. 140k miles, warranty is kaput, $75 in parts for new bolts and gasket(s), had to apparently yank the cab off to fix it, $1600. Got them talked down to $1k though.

A couple of weeks go by, sound came back. It was faint at first, but then it became loud and constant. Took it back to the dealership, their diesel "specialist" took one look under the truck and said "your radiator is gone". Not literally gone, but pretty much fried. Opened the hood and popped the cap off of the coolant reservoir and steam came shooting out. Guy said he has to replace them almost daily on the 6.4. Another $600 there. While working on it he noticed the thermostat was shot, thus causing the failure to the radiator. Another $100 to replace that. He probably knew this was the problem the first time and just got the rest of his money that he "discounted" us.

Just out of curiosity, he pulled the service record off the VIN for all the work that had been done to the truck, including the previous owner of it. The radiator had been replaced at 40k and had gone 100k before needing a new one. The guy said that was a good sign, that the radiators usually go for 50-60k before just giving out. This is happening because these radiators move twice as much water per minute compared to a normal diesel radiator, 70gpm being the norm, 140gpm on the ones for these 6.4's. They just get that hot!

So we think all is good, had the truck for a few days now, and the sound is back. Now what the hell else could it be? A torn or loose hose? The guy we deal with is this dealer's only diesel specialist, he's a nice guy, and they are local. But obviously he either doesn't care, or is just not doing all that is necessary to find the problem. Hell, we pulled the truck off the lot and the AC wouldn't cool. Swung back around and had them recharge it. :icon_rolleyes: Nice guy or not, he's only as honest as the dealership he works for. And we're finding out the dealer is not a good one. We've never bought from them, but they are local.

They guy pulled us aside and said to start looking for a new truck. He said don't touch ANY 6.4 that was built in '07-'08. The majority of problems were fixed on the Gen 3 builds starting in '09. But he said if it were him, he would get an '07 6.0. But like my dad said, going from the '08 to the '07 would be like wiping with sandpaper when you've got Charmin right in front of you. He told us that the pushrods were strengthened in the '07s, or something like that. Can't afford brand spankin' new, but a few slightly used, super low mile '09s are starting to pop up. Heck, even brand new ones that dealers are clearing out for '10 have up to $10k off the sticker. But still, cheapest we've found is still $20k more than we spent on the one we've got now. But...about $3k has been spent on this truck since buying it in Feb. So it's almost justified to have a $200 a month more payment for a truck that's not constantly in the shop.


Oh, and get this, the tech also told us this. The way the lines are routed and hooked up to the computer and guages..you will never know the truck is overheating. We didn't know ours was because the temp guage stayed in the normal position the entire time. He said Ford knows these problems, and basically since they didn't build the engine, they don't give a crap what happens to it. Hence why they are building the Scorpion 6.7. But you guys already knew that. :thumbsup: It still sucks though for us guys that own these trucks and are stuck with them. At least you low mileage owners still have the factory warranty to cover your butt. Be thankful for that. It's a great truck, when it's working. It would be a kick in the balls to have to go back to a Cummins. Good engine (pre BlueTec), but a crappy truck wrapped around it.
:lol::lol:......Please go find yourself a new dealer!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
:lol::lol:......Please go find yourself a new dealer!!!
I thought he was full of crap too, but like I said, the gauge never showed it to be overheating once, and it's done so twice now. The thing is a freakin nightmare.

Forgot to mention in the OP, it's an '08 F350 Job 1.
 

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He's Telling you to go buy a new Truck because he's an idiot and can't find and fix more than one problem at a time.

Honestly with the new 6.4's there seeing

1-high pressure fuel pumps going out
2-Bad T-stats, but not too many
3-main radiator going bad
4-head gaskets (mostly with a high h/p chip or tuner)
5-Regen problems
6-DPF are clogging from cracks or regen problems.

Now if you got a few of these things out of your way with the warranty then that help and maybe you'll never have a problem with any of these. I'm not saying all trucks have this whole list of stuff, maybe one or 2. Mine actually had #1 #2 #3.

I think your high pictch wine might be boot off one of the turbos or some big pressurized rubber hose just barley slipping off or close to it to where a little of that high pressure is leaking causing the loudest whistle you've ever heard. I had this problem right after my dealer replaced my High Pressure Fuel Pump. They had to take the Cab off and when they do they have to disconnect a lot of stuff and then reconnect it. Not a lot of it gets reconnected real well. Its probably mostly when your doing 45mph or over especially on the free way. Some do it when in regen mode too, so look for that. You should have the latest flash so that your dash read out will tell you when your in Regen, so listen for it then and it should only do it when your foot is into the throttle at least 25% or more, could be even less.

That Tech is an idiot. Dealers are greedy and dishonest. When your warranty is in tact they are as nice as can be, because your problems are their bread and butter and ford writes the check. Now that its up, they are looking to give you the pinch to write those checks that ford wont do now that your warranty is up.

Take your truck somewhere else. Call around and ask if they have a seriously good diesel mechanic, and be blunt and loud to get the seriousness of your point across. Tell them your in court with the other dealership because of a moron diesel mechanic and your not looking for a repeat. If your original dealer told you that it would fix the problem when they replaced the radiator then hold them to that, if needs you can pay a lawyer $200 to make a very persuasive letter and send it to them. I've done it before and its the equalivent to pointing a .357 magnum to their heads and telling them to make a move. I was shocked by what kind of service my lawyer pulled out of a crappy dealer too.

Good Luck.
 

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i have not had any of those issues, just a bad TCM (trans control module) at 600 miles.

Mine is a job 3 2008. Truck runs just fine.

Big issue with the guages as they have been dummied down because of customers. Customers would needlessly take it because the guage moves and they think something is wrong.
 

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sittin in the cab, whice side is this noise coming from?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sittin in the cab, whice side is this noise coming from?
I want to say it's more towards the passenger side. Perhaps the air box?


Good advice, phelectric. I'll work on finding a new dealer. I read someone on here mentioned Metro Ford as a good place.
 

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I just had a similar problem and it ended up being the "right side turbo inlet pipe leak at flex joint." I am reading off the serive papers. The tech told me he had to use a mirror to find the black marks made by the exhaust or whatever above the transfer case. He found it and had to drop the transfer case to replace it.

Check and see of the high pitched whistle occurs when your in boost. Hope this helps.
 

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SFC1984, probably way too simple, but Job seems right.


Heater core noise:​
Some 2008 F-SuperDuty trucks built prior to 6-18-07 may exhibit noise from the heater core.​
6.4 PowerStroke bulletins (1 of 9) [8/15/2009 11:49:19 AM]
6.4 PowerStroke bulletins​
To verify the source of the noise, bring the engine up to full operating temperature. Raise the
engine speed to 2500-2900 RPM. Use a hose pinch-off plier to crimp off the heater inlet hose. If
the noise goes away, replace the heater hose: without auxiliary heater, 7C3Z-18472-L; with aux​
heater, 7C3Z-18472-K. TSB 07-22-2.

Hoase is under air box.

SFC1984, I've got the same in-shop-time record as you butwith only 28k on speedo and but on vastly different issues across the board and it was while travelling which made it even worse. I am about with you on giving up on the Job 1. Good luck.
 

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I just left my 250 at the dealer today. Same type of sound. Under acceleration I would get this high pitch sound and it would only come when the turbo would spool up. Dealer said my turbo was about to go out. They are going to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just had a similar problem and it ended up being the "right side turbo inlet pipe leak at flex joint." I am reading off the serive papers. The tech told me he had to use a mirror to find the black marks made by the exhaust or whatever above the transfer case. He found it and had to drop the transfer case to replace it.

Check and see of the high pitched whistle occurs when your in boost. Hope this helps.
SFC1984, probably way too simple, but Job seems right.


Heater core noise:​
Some 2008 F-SuperDuty trucks built prior to 6-18-07 may exhibit noise from the heater core.​
6.4 PowerStroke bulletins (1 of 9) [8/15/2009 11:49:19 AM]
6.4 PowerStroke bulletins​
To verify the source of the noise, bring the engine up to full operating temperature. Raise the
engine speed to 2500-2900 RPM. Use a hose pinch-off plier to crimp off the heater inlet hose. If
the noise goes away, replace the heater hose: without auxiliary heater, 7C3Z-18472-L; with aux​
heater, 7C3Z-18472-K. TSB 07-22-2.

Hoase is under air box.

SFC1984, I've got the same in-shop-time record as you butwith only 28k on speedo and but on vastly different issues across the board and it was while travelling which made it even worse. I am about with you on giving up on the Job 1. Good luck.
I just left my 250 at the dealer today. Same type of sound. Under acceleration I would get this high pitch sound and it would only come when the turbo would spool up. Dealer said my turbo was about to go out. They are going to replace it.

I'll be sure to keep all these scenarios in mind if the sound continues. I popped the hood today and noticed they didn't tighten the hose clamp for the intake and the hose itself was about to slip off. I tightened it and the sound didn't fully go away, but it's very faint. Sometimes you don't hear anything, then all the sudden when you accelerate it'll come back quick, then disappear. Could be the turbo. It definitely sound like a fan or propeller. Perhaps the cooling fan? There's also a faint squeak that can barely be heard, like the sound of an old bearing about to go out. Not sure what that could be.

the 6.0 are far from being better then the 6.4 maintenance and performance. maybe mpg's but the money u save in mpg's ull have to spend it fixing it
That's kinda what I gather from researching them. I said pushrods in my OP, but I believe the tech said the injectors were stronger in the '07s.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I found a link to another site while searching around on another thread.

Spartan Tune to Fix what Ford can't - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

One post from a Master Tech suggests the serpintine belt and belt tensioner as the problem. I had though it might be the fan clutch, but others have put that theory to rest already. Some suggest the water pump as the culprit. But everyone that has heard this whistle (6.0 and 6.4) say it happens while pulling a load in the heat at about 2000-2800 RPMs. The whistle happens in ours all the time though, towing or not.
 

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I can see where that could be it but, it only happens when accelerating and the turbo spools up. As soon as mine drops it starts to go away. 35mph, 50mph, 80, but as soon as i jump on it in a hard accel, the turbo goes up and it comes back. I read and was told by Matt from Spartan to check for a preturbo exhaust leak. They seem to crack or come loose. Then the guys at Ford said it was the turbo. Didn't say what other than they were going to replace it under waranty.
 

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I can see where that could be it but, it only happens when accelerating and the turbo spools up. As soon as mine drops it starts to go away. 35mph, 50mph, 80, but as soon as i jump on it in a hard accel, the turbo goes up and it comes back. I read and was told by Matt from Spartan to check for a preturbo exhaust leak. They seem to crack or come loose. Then the guys at Ford said it was the turbo. Didn't say what other than they were going to replace it under waranty.
Same here, it only makes that sound under boost. But which turbo is it and how much would a new one cost? :sick:

I registered on the Ford Owners site and was able to see all the service records. $3500 has been spent on this truck in repairs since buying it in Feb., and still not sure if it's even fixed.
 

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Well, I got my truck back and they said it was a split in one of the boots going to the turbo. Not the turbo it self. Still covered under waranty. I didn't hear it on the way home but I'll keep up on it and see if it comes back.
 

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Well, I got my truck back and they said it was a split in one of the boots going to the turbo. Not the turbo it self. Still covered under waranty. I didn't hear it on the way home but I'll keep up on it and see if it comes back.
Did they say what the cost would be if not under warranty?
 

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Valve cover mounting stud for turbo sheared

I had the same symptoms. However, I had a different cause. The U-shaped "hose assembly" had backed out of the air duct due to the shearing of the mounting stud which mounts to the valve cover. The stud is part # W302461. The upper front one (easiest to get to) was sheared allowing a gap between the hose assembly and the air duct.

Easy to get to. Took about 1 hour. Had to loosen all 4 stud mounts to get the one out. A set of new studs is only $18.

I knew where to look because last year, all 4 studs broke causing the hose assembly to back completely out and I lost my turbo. That was a 4 hour fix. Mostly just taking off all the stuff so I could get to the bolts.
 
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