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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was suppose to change the FIPL but one of the screws was stuck and somehow, I noticed later, I have managed to crack the trottle "house". Now I'm in the siyuation that I have a spare car, just like the one I allready have and I'm planning to take that trottle house and replace the one I cracked, but how is this done? What do I screw off? Can I take of the whole "house", with IP and all and the shield that the oil cap/filler neck are in? Or is it any easier sulution? I don't mind the work, I just dont want to unscrew a lot I do not have to..

Anyone done this before? (I have allready removed the AC compressor, it had no a134 left and was leak anyway, beside I do not need it for more than 2-3 days in this country, so I have good space down there...)

Anyone?

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DO NOT TAKE THAT COVER OFF! If you pull off that cover it will through your timing off for your IP and its a pain in the .... to get it realigned. I just got finished realigning mine. You can unbolt all the fuel lines from the injectors, then unbolt the IP from that case--Its difficult to do that... I just bent a short and cheap wrench into an L shape. It worked great to get those nuts off. You also need to pull the front sheild off of the front cover that the oil fill neck is on (timing gear cover) It just has two bolts on it facing the radiator. Pull that off and unbolt the three bolts that hold the timing gear to the IP. Once thats done, with a little wiggling your IP should come right out.

Good luck! and if you have already pulled that case off, visit the other post in this forum labled IP Timing, or something like that...
 

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Yea what he said , do not pull the cover and ip all off at once. A real pain in the #$$. I'm trying to get my truck on tdc now and you can not see anyting for timing marks.
 

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PM me your email addy and I will send info....... <font color="red"> SENT </font>
 

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Do not remove the oil fill neck you will possibly move timing gear and be in a real pickle.
Injection Pump
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cables.
Remove the engine cover.
If necessary, remove the engine oil filler neck.

Fig. 1: Diesel engine oil filler neck removal

If equipped, remove the adapter housing cover plate.
Remove the bolts attaching injection pump to drive gear.

Fig. 2: Diesel injection pump drive gear attaching bolts

WARNING
Before removing the fuel lines, clean the exterior with clean fuel oil or solvent to prevent entry of dirt into the engine when the fuel lines are removed. Also, do not wash or steam clean engine while engine is running. Serious damage to injection pump could occur.

Disengage the electrical connectors to the injection pump.
Remove the fast idle solenoid bracket assembly to provide access to the injection pump mounting nuts.

Fig. 3: Diesel engine fast idle solenoid bracket

Disconnect the accelerator cable and speed control cable from throttle lever, if so equipped.
Remove the air cleaner and install clean rags to prevent dirt from entering the intake manifold.
Remove the accelerator cable bracket, with cables attached, from the intake manifold and position out of the way.
NOTE: All fuel lines and fittings must be capped using Fuel System Protective Cap Set T83T–9395–A or equivalent, to prevent fuel contamination.


Disconnect the lines from the fuel filter.
Remove the fuel filter-to-injection pump fuel line and cap the fittings.
Remove and cap the injection pump inlet elbow and the injection pump fitting adapter.
Remove the fuel return line on the injection pump, then rotate out of the way, and cap all fittings.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove injection lines from the injection pump. If lines are to be removed, loosen the injection line fittings at the injection pump before removing it from engine.


Remove the fuel injection lines from the nozzles, and cap the lines and nozzles.
Remove the three nuts attaching the injection pump to the injection pump adapter using Tool T86T–9000–B.
If the injection pump is to be replaced, loosen the injection line retaining clips and the injection nozzle fuel lines with Tool T83T–9396–A and cap all fittings at this time with protective cap set T83T–9395–A or equivalent. Do not install the injection nozzle fuel lines until the new pump is installed in the engine.

Fig. 4: Removing the diesel fuel return line

Fig. 5: Removing the diesel injection pump
Lift the injection pump, with the nozzle lines attached, up and out of the passenger compartment.
WARNING
Do not carry injection pump by injection nozzle fuel lines as this could cause lines to bend or crimp.

To install:

Install a new O-ring on the drive gear end of the injection pump.
Move the injection pump down and into position and set the fuel return crossover pipe in position.
Position the alignment dowel on injection pump into the alignment hole on drive gear.

Fig. 6: Be sure to fit the alignment dowel on the pump into the hole in the drive gear

Install the bolts attaching the injection pump to drive gear and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Install the nuts attaching injection pump to adapter. Align scribe lines on the injection pump flange and the injection pump adapter and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
If the injection nozzle fuel lines were removed from the injection pump install at this time, refer to the Injection Lines installation procedure in this section.
Remove the caps from nozzles and the fuel lines and install the fuel line nuts on the nozzles and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Connect the fuel return line to injection pump and tighten the nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Install the injection pump fitting adapter with a new O-ring.
Clean the old sealant from the injection pump elbow threads, using clean solvent, and dry thoroughly. Apply a light coating of pipe sealant to the elbow threads.
Install the elbow in the injection pump adapter and tighten to a minimum of 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Then tighten further, if necessary, to align the elbow with the injection pump fuel inlet line, but do not exceed 360 degrees of rotation or 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
Remove the caps and connect the fuel filter-to-injection pump fuel line.
Connect all lines to the filter assembly
Install the accelerator cable bracket on the intake manifold.
Remove the rags from the intake manifold and install the air cleaner.
Connect the accelerator and speed control cable, if so equipped, to the throttle lever.
Install the fast idle solenoid bracket assembly.
Install the electrical connectors on injection pump.
Clean the injection pump adapter and oil filler neck sealing surfaces.
Apply a 1&#8260;8 in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealant on the adapter housing grooves.
Install the oil filler neck and tighten the bolts.
Connect the battery ground cables to both batteries.
Run the engine and check for fuel leaks.
If necessary, purge high pressure fuel lines of air by loosening connector one half to one turn and cranking engine until solid fuel, free from bubbles flows from connection.
CAUTION
Keep eyes and hands away from nozzle spray. Fuel spraying from the nozzle under high pressure can penetrate the skin.


Check and adjust injection pump timing as described in this section.
Install the engine cover.

INJECTION TIMING
Static Timing

Fig. 1: Diesel injection pump static timing marks

Break the torque of the injection pump mounting nuts (keeping the nuts snug).
Rotate the injection pump using Tool T83–9000–C or equivalent to bring the mark on the pump into alignment with the mark on the pump mounting adapter.
Visually recheck the alignment of the timing marks and tighten the injection pump mounting nuts.
Dynamic Timing
Start the engine and bring it up to normal operating temperature.
Stop the engine and install a dynamic timing meter, Rotunda 078–00200 or equivalent, by placing the magnetic probe pick-up into the probe hole.
Attach the clamp from timing meter adapter 078-00201 or its equivalent to the line pressure sensor on the No. 4 injector nozzle and connect to the timing meter.
Connect the dynamic timing meter to the battery and adjust the offset of the meter to minus 20 degrees.
Set the transmission in neutral and raise the rear wheels off the ground. Using Rotunda D83T–9000-E or equivalent throttle control tool, set the engine speed to 2000 rpm with no accessory load. Observe the injection timing on the dynamic timing meter.
The timing should be 8.5 degrees BTDC at 2000 rpm.

Fig. 2: Diesel engine magnetic pick-up probe hole location

Fig. 3: Rotunda diesel throttle control tool

Apply battery voltage to the cold start advance solenoid and adjust the timing so that it stays at 2000 rpm as this may advance timing. The timing should be advanced 1 degree. If not replace the fuel injection pump top cover assembly.
If the dynamic timing is not within plug or minus 2 degrees of specification, then the injection pump timing will require adjustment.
Turn the engine OFF. Note the timing mark alignment.
Remove the fast idle bracket and solenoid from the pump.
Loosen the injection pump-to-adapter nuts.
Rotate the injection pump clockwise (when viewed from the front of the engine) to retard or counterclockwise to advance the timing. Two degrees of dynamic timing equals approximately 0.030 in. (0.76mm) of timing mark movement.
Start the engine and recheck the timing. If the timing is not within plus or minus 1 degree of specification, repeat Steps 8 through 12.
Turn the engine OFF. Remove the dynamic timing equipment.
Install the fast idle bracket and solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys!

You guys prevented me from doing a lot of stupid things... again!!
THANKS a lot for that and for all your good advice!

I have now done what you guys said and changed the bad IP with a IP from my spare car.
(EDIT: I got the prize for a new one to day... $1600,- (10000,- norwegian kroner) they shall have for it!! Thats what I gave for my spare car! I guess that car have payd off, first the tranny and then the IP..)

It all went great! A piece of cake when I had your advice to follow
¨
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

So I now have a good mix from 89 and 90 model van... he he. It now runs so slick and smoth that I allmost didn't recognize it from what I had, the shifting is VERY smoth and nice now after the tranny rebuild and with a new FIPL I just have to say: WOW! What a diffrens! Even the lock up runs smoth and great now, kicks in a little over 60 km/h and goes out when braking, compared to before, when it kicked in/out all the way!

So again I want to thank you guys in here very mush, I've learned a lot from this and what you have told me and just have to say that without you.... there had been no van for sure! So Thanks!!!

Now I have a van that will last for awhile, buildt tough!!


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Do not remove the oil fill neck you will possibly move timing gear and be in a real pickle.
Injection Pump
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cables.
Remove the engine cover.
If necessary, remove the engine oil filler neck.

Fig. 1: Diesel engine oil filler neck removal

If equipped, remove the adapter housing cover plate.
Remove the bolts attaching injection pump to drive gear.

Fig. 2: Diesel injection pump drive gear attaching bolts

WARNING
Before removing the fuel lines, clean the exterior with clean fuel oil or solvent to prevent entry of dirt into the engine when the fuel lines are removed. Also, do not wash or steam clean engine while engine is running. Serious damage to injection pump could occur.

Disengage the electrical connectors to the injection pump.
Remove the fast idle solenoid bracket assembly to provide access to the injection pump mounting nuts.

Fig. 3: Diesel engine fast idle solenoid bracket

Disconnect the accelerator cable and speed control cable from throttle lever, if so equipped.
Remove the air cleaner and install clean rags to prevent dirt from entering the intake manifold.
Remove the accelerator cable bracket, with cables attached, from the intake manifold and position out of the way.
NOTE: All fuel lines and fittings must be capped using Fuel System Protective Cap Set T83T–9395–A or equivalent, to prevent fuel contamination.


Disconnect the lines from the fuel filter.
Remove the fuel filter-to-injection pump fuel line and cap the fittings.
Remove and cap the injection pump inlet elbow and the injection pump fitting adapter.
Remove the fuel return line on the injection pump, then rotate out of the way, and cap all fittings.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove injection lines from the injection pump. If lines are to be removed, loosen the injection line fittings at the injection pump before removing it from engine.


Remove the fuel injection lines from the nozzles, and cap the lines and nozzles.
Remove the three nuts attaching the injection pump to the injection pump adapter using Tool T86T–9000–B.
If the injection pump is to be replaced, loosen the injection line retaining clips and the injection nozzle fuel lines with Tool T83T–9396–A and cap all fittings at this time with protective cap set T83T–9395–A or equivalent. Do not install the injection nozzle fuel lines until the new pump is installed in the engine.

Fig. 4: Removing the diesel fuel return line

Fig. 5: Removing the diesel injection pump
Lift the injection pump, with the nozzle lines attached, up and out of the passenger compartment.
WARNING
Do not carry injection pump by injection nozzle fuel lines as this could cause lines to bend or crimp.

To install:

Install a new O-ring on the drive gear end of the injection pump.
Move the injection pump down and into position and set the fuel return crossover pipe in position.
Position the alignment dowel on injection pump into the alignment hole on drive gear.

Fig. 6: Be sure to fit the alignment dowel on the pump into the hole in the drive gear

Install the bolts attaching the injection pump to drive gear and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Install the nuts attaching injection pump to adapter. Align scribe lines on the injection pump flange and the injection pump adapter and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
If the injection nozzle fuel lines were removed from the injection pump install at this time, refer to the Injection Lines installation procedure in this section.
Remove the caps from nozzles and the fuel lines and install the fuel line nuts on the nozzles and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Connect the fuel return line to injection pump and tighten the nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Install the injection pump fitting adapter with a new O-ring.
Clean the old sealant from the injection pump elbow threads, using clean solvent, and dry thoroughly. Apply a light coating of pipe sealant to the elbow threads.
Install the elbow in the injection pump adapter and tighten to a minimum of 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Then tighten further, if necessary, to align the elbow with the injection pump fuel inlet line, but do not exceed 360 degrees of rotation or 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
Remove the caps and connect the fuel filter-to-injection pump fuel line.
Connect all lines to the filter assembly
Install the accelerator cable bracket on the intake manifold.
Remove the rags from the intake manifold and install the air cleaner.
Connect the accelerator and speed control cable, if so equipped, to the throttle lever.
Install the fast idle solenoid bracket assembly.
Install the electrical connectors on injection pump.
Clean the injection pump adapter and oil filler neck sealing surfaces.
Apply a 1&#8260;8 in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealant on the adapter housing grooves.
Install the oil filler neck and tighten the bolts.
Connect the battery ground cables to both batteries.
Run the engine and check for fuel leaks.
If necessary, purge high pressure fuel lines of air by loosening connector one half to one turn and cranking engine until solid fuel, free from bubbles flows from connection.
CAUTION
Keep eyes and hands away from nozzle spray. Fuel spraying from the nozzle under high pressure can penetrate the skin.


Check and adjust injection pump timing as described in this section.
Install the engine cover.

INJECTION TIMING
Static Timing

Fig. 1: Diesel injection pump static timing marks

Break the torque of the injection pump mounting nuts (keeping the nuts snug).
Rotate the injection pump using Tool T83–9000–C or equivalent to bring the mark on the pump into alignment with the mark on the pump mounting adapter.
Visually recheck the alignment of the timing marks and tighten the injection pump mounting nuts.
Dynamic Timing
Start the engine and bring it up to normal operating temperature.
Stop the engine and install a dynamic timing meter, Rotunda 078–00200 or equivalent, by placing the magnetic probe pick-up into the probe hole.
Attach the clamp from timing meter adapter 078-00201 or its equivalent to the line pressure sensor on the No. 4 injector nozzle and connect to the timing meter.
Connect the dynamic timing meter to the battery and adjust the offset of the meter to minus 20 degrees.
Set the transmission in neutral and raise the rear wheels off the ground. Using Rotunda D83T–9000-E or equivalent throttle control tool, set the engine speed to 2000 rpm with no accessory load. Observe the injection timing on the dynamic timing meter.
The timing should be 8.5 degrees BTDC at 2000 rpm.

Fig. 2: Diesel engine magnetic pick-up probe hole location

Fig. 3: Rotunda diesel throttle control tool

Apply battery voltage to the cold start advance solenoid and adjust the timing so that it stays at 2000 rpm as this may advance timing. The timing should be advanced 1 degree. If not replace the fuel injection pump top cover assembly.
If the dynamic timing is not within plug or minus 2 degrees of specification, then the injection pump timing will require adjustment.
Turn the engine OFF. Note the timing mark alignment.
Remove the fast idle bracket and solenoid from the pump.
Loosen the injection pump-to-adapter nuts.
Rotate the injection pump clockwise (when viewed from the front of the engine) to retard or counterclockwise to advance the timing. Two degrees of dynamic timing equals approximately 0.030 in. (0.76mm) of timing mark movement.
Start the engine and recheck the timing. If the timing is not within plus or minus 1 degree of specification, repeat Steps 8 through 12.
Turn the engine OFF. Remove the dynamic timing equipment.
Install the fast idle bracket and solenoid.
will this write up work on my 2000 psd? great write up also thanx
 

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Climber......Don't think so yours is electronic, sorry to say.
 

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Climber......Don't think so yours is electronic, sorry to say.
any idea on how i can find a thread for my truck and this problem.
 

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1989 Custom 5 speed srw 2wd bells and whistles:A/C and heater VIN 2FTJW35M9KCB0XXXX
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Do not remove the oil fill neck you will possibly move timing gear and be in a real pickle.
Injection Pump
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cables.
Remove the engine cover.
If necessary, remove the engine oil filler neck.

Fig. 1: Diesel engine oil filler neck removal

If equipped, remove the adapter housing cover plate.
Remove the bolts attaching injection pump to drive gear.

Fig. 2: Diesel injection pump drive gear attaching bolts

WARNING
Before removing the fuel lines, clean the exterior with clean fuel oil or solvent to prevent entry of dirt into the engine when the fuel lines are removed. Also, do not wash or steam clean engine while engine is running. Serious damage to injection pump could occur.

Disengage the electrical connectors to the injection pump.
Remove the fast idle solenoid bracket assembly to provide access to the injection pump mounting nuts.

Fig. 3: Diesel engine fast idle solenoid bracket

Disconnect the accelerator cable and speed control cable from throttle lever, if so equipped.
Remove the air cleaner and install clean rags to prevent dirt from entering the intake manifold.
Remove the accelerator cable bracket, with cables attached, from the intake manifold and position out of the way.
NOTE: All fuel lines and fittings must be capped using Fuel System Protective Cap Set T83T–9395–A or equivalent, to prevent fuel contamination.


Disconnect the lines from the fuel filter.
Remove the fuel filter-to-injection pump fuel line and cap the fittings.
Remove and cap the injection pump inlet elbow and the injection pump fitting adapter.
Remove the fuel return line on the injection pump, then rotate out of the way, and cap all fittings.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove injection lines from the injection pump. If lines are to be removed, loosen the injection line fittings at the injection pump before removing it from engine.


Remove the fuel injection lines from the nozzles, and cap the lines and nozzles.
Remove the three nuts attaching the injection pump to the injection pump adapter using Tool T86T–9000–B.
If the injection pump is to be replaced, loosen the injection line retaining clips and the injection nozzle fuel lines with Tool T83T–9396–A and cap all fittings at this time with protective cap set T83T–9395–A or equivalent. Do not install the injection nozzle fuel lines until the new pump is installed in the engine.

Fig. 4: Removing the diesel fuel return line

Fig. 5: Removing the diesel injection pump
Lift the injection pump, with the nozzle lines attached, up and out of the passenger compartment.
WARNING
Do not carry injection pump by injection nozzle fuel lines as this could cause lines to bend or crimp.

To install:

Install a new O-ring on the drive gear end of the injection pump.
Move the injection pump down and into position and set the fuel return crossover pipe in position.
Position the alignment dowel on injection pump into the alignment hole on drive gear.

Fig. 6: Be sure to fit the alignment dowel on the pump into the hole in the drive gear

Install the bolts attaching the injection pump to drive gear and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
Install the nuts attaching injection pump to adapter. Align scribe lines on the injection pump flange and the injection pump adapter and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
If the injection nozzle fuel lines were removed from the injection pump install at this time, refer to the Injection Lines installation procedure in this section.
Remove the caps from nozzles and the fuel lines and install the fuel line nuts on the nozzles and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Connect the fuel return line to injection pump and tighten the nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Install the injection pump fitting adapter with a new O-ring.
Clean the old sealant from the injection pump elbow threads, using clean solvent, and dry thoroughly. Apply a light coating of pipe sealant to the elbow threads.
Install the elbow in the injection pump adapter and tighten to a minimum of 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Then tighten further, if necessary, to align the elbow with the injection pump fuel inlet line, but do not exceed 360 degrees of rotation or 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
Remove the caps and connect the fuel filter-to-injection pump fuel line.
Connect all lines to the filter assembly
Install the accelerator cable bracket on the intake manifold.
Remove the rags from the intake manifold and install the air cleaner.
Connect the accelerator and speed control cable, if so equipped, to the throttle lever.
Install the fast idle solenoid bracket assembly.
Install the electrical connectors on injection pump.
Clean the injection pump adapter and oil filler neck sealing surfaces.
Apply a 1&#8260;8 in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealant on the adapter housing grooves.
Install the oil filler neck and tighten the bolts.
Connect the battery ground cables to both batteries.
Run the engine and check for fuel leaks.
If necessary, purge high pressure fuel lines of air by loosening connector one half to one turn and cranking engine until solid fuel, free from bubbles flows from connection.
CAUTION
Keep eyes and hands away from nozzle spray. Fuel spraying from the nozzle under high pressure can penetrate the skin.


Check and adjust injection pump timing as described in this section.
Install the engine cover.

INJECTION TIMING
Static Timing

Fig. 1: Diesel injection pump static timing marks

Break the torque of the injection pump mounting nuts (keeping the nuts snug).
Rotate the injection pump using Tool T83–9000–C or equivalent to bring the mark on the pump into alignment with the mark on the pump mounting adapter.
Visually recheck the alignment of the timing marks and tighten the injection pump mounting nuts.
Dynamic Timing
Start the engine and bring it up to normal operating temperature.
Stop the engine and install a dynamic timing meter, Rotunda 078–00200 or equivalent, by placing the magnetic probe pick-up into the probe hole.
Attach the clamp from timing meter adapter 078-00201 or its equivalent to the line pressure sensor on the No. 4 injector nozzle and connect to the timing meter.
Connect the dynamic timing meter to the battery and adjust the offset of the meter to minus 20 degrees.
Set the transmission in neutral and raise the rear wheels off the ground. Using Rotunda D83T–9000-E or equivalent throttle control tool, set the engine speed to 2000 rpm with no accessory load. Observe the injection timing on the dynamic timing meter.
The timing should be 8.5 degrees BTDC at 2000 rpm.

Fig. 2: Diesel engine magnetic pick-up probe hole location

Fig. 3: Rotunda diesel throttle control tool

Apply battery voltage to the cold start advance solenoid and adjust the timing so that it stays at 2000 rpm as this may advance timing. The timing should be advanced 1 degree. If not replace the fuel injection pump top cover assembly.
If the dynamic timing is not within plug or minus 2 degrees of specification, then the injection pump timing will require adjustment.
Turn the engine OFF. Note the timing mark alignment.
Remove the fast idle bracket and solenoid from the pump.
Loosen the injection pump-to-adapter nuts.
Rotate the injection pump clockwise (when viewed from the front of the engine) to retard or counterclockwise to advance the timing. Two degrees of dynamic timing equals approximately 0.030 in. (0.76mm) of timing mark movement.
Start the engine and recheck the timing. If the timing is not within plus or minus 1 degree of specification, repeat Steps 8 through 12.
Turn the engine OFF. Remove the dynamic timing equipment.
Install the fast idle bracket and solenoid.
Starting at the first sentence of To install What is the o-ring on the drive gear end of the injection pump for?
 

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The O-ring is to seal the IP to the gear cover. Prevents lube oil from leaking down into the valley. DO NOT remove the gear cover. This will allow the IP drive gear to loose its timing which (to do it right) will require the removal of the entire front cover in order to locate all of the timing marks and line them up again. If you simply remove the IP from the gear and let it lie in place it cannot possibly get out of time. There is a two bolt cover on the front of the gear cover, under that is the drive gear, and the pump mounting bolts. It can't be successfully installed wrong, so just unbolt it there and on the other side of the cover where the pump itself mounts up. It will slide right out after you disconnect the injector lines. I usually disconnect from the injectors and pull the whole mess out at once. I then hook up everything on the bench and install everything back like it came out. If you don't remove the line clamps, it'll make you put everything back in its original timing configuration. I've never had any timing issues by doing that.
 

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1989 Custom 5 speed srw 2wd bells and whistles:A/C and heater VIN 2FTJW35M9KCB0XXXX
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The O-ring is to seal the IP to the gear cover. Prevents lube oil from leaking down into the valley. DO NOT remove the gear cover. This will allow the IP drive gear to loose its timing which (to do it right) will require the removal of the entire front cover in order to locate all of the timing marks and line them up again. If you simply remove the IP from the gear and let it lie in place it cannot possibly get out of time. There is a two bolt cover on the front of the gear cover, under that is the drive gear, and the pump mounting bolts. It can't be successfully installed wrong, so just unbolt it there and on the other side of the cover where the pump itself mounts up. It will slide right out after you disconnect the injector lines. I usually disconnect from the injectors and pull the whole mess out at once. I then hook up everything on the bench and install everything back like it came out. If you don't remove the line clamps, it'll make you put everything back in its original timing configuration. I've never had any timing issues by doing that.
Thank you for your reply. I have already changed the IP and injectors. I do not remember the IP having an o-ring on the back of the pump. I also didnt see a noticeable amount of oil leakage. I will be checking for oil leaks there today. Thanks again for your time and your reply.
 
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