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Hi all,

I just bought an 83 F350 with 6.9. The fuel guage showed about 1/8th tank left but it seemed like it ran out. Later inspection I noticed the tank has a dent on the bottom where someone ran over something so maybe it was throwing the gauge off or something. I luckily coasted right to a diesel pump and filled it up.

It didn't start right up so I quit cranking. I figured I needed to bleed the injectors as I've had to do that on tractors, dozers, and other diesel trucks. I messed with that until the batteries went dead and took them home to charge.

I've never had a Ford 6.9 so I looked around on the internet and saw that they have some kind of bleeding valve at the fuel filter where you shouldn't need to bleed the injectors or pump the lift pump by hand. How does it work? I don't have a manual on it. Does it automatically bleed it if you just keep cranking or do you have to loosen something?

I sure would appreciate it if someone could tell me how I should bleed this to get it started. If the procedure doesn't work, I would assume that the lift or injector pump is bad, but the lift pump looks shiny and brand new. I put a new filter on it and filled it up with fuel before putting it on but I just messed with it too much and ran the batteries down.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Here's how I do it, probably not the "approved" way but it works for me:
There is a schraeder valve, like a valve stem on a tire, on the filter,push in and hold the little spring loaded center part.
With the key off I use a screw driver to jump the starter solenoid and crank until steady solid fuel comes out the valve.
If it has run out of fuel or I'm putting in new injectors I loosen the fuel line to a couple injectors, then turn the key on and jump the solenoid again until she starts then tighten the fuel lines.
That's how I fill new filters, I never fill fuel filters by hand.
 

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It should be..... usually has a tire valve cap on it. Get a rag to absorb any dripping fuel ...... press the valve stem while cranking the engine. When fuel is constant no air, crank the engine as for a start. Recycling so as the Glow Plugs will operated as required. Are your GPs good are the manual operated or still auto.

If the GPs are "not working" a small and I mean small sniff of Ether in the air cleaner can do wonders. I normally do not advise ether but had to resort to it myself this past weekend to start a Yanmar tractor........
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you so much!!

That was easier than any diesel I've bled. I wish I knew that when it happened.

Thanks again!
 

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I just changed my fuel filter; the Chilton repair manual says not to pre-fill the fuel filter with fuel, but to let the motor suck it through. I tried this and it wouldn’t start after about 3 minutes total of cranking and low battery power. I saw this page and this method worked like a charm. I used a nail and softly taped a cup in front of the nozzle while I jumped the ignition

My only suggestion, for safety purposes is to have someone else if possible crank the motor with the key from the inside because fuel and sparks from the screw driver don’t mix, and watch out for all those moving parts. I believe there is a way to open the valve temporarily without holding it in.
 

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you all realize that diesel is not really flamable right?

If the GPs are "not working" a small and I mean small sniff of Ether in the air cleaner can do wonders. I normally do not advise ether but had to resort to it myself this past weekend to start a Yanmar tractor........
I had 3/8 of my gps working for so long, and the other five were carboned into the heads, I decided that one gp would buy at least 3 cans of ether, that they were not worth messing with. I either plugged her in(most of the time) or gave her a quick 1/4 second shot of girl scout juice she fired right away, no matter how cold it was(down to -12 anyway).

as far as bleeding the air out of the fuel? CDNSARGUY has the patent on that one. That is the same way I always did her, and BTW always fill up your filter before install
 

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The nice thing about an electric pump is that I don't have to crank the engine to fill the filter.

The gauges on most of these trucks are not accurate if they work at all. Most just learn how to read their truck, on mine I still have 4 to 4.5 gallons when the gauge reads empty.
 

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I actually just went and bought the same truck and the guy who owned it before me didnt fill the fuel filter before putting it on so now the truck starts ok sometimes u have to crank it a little bit but when it gets warm it dies, he said that the fuel lines need bled, but it starts fine just dies, How would i do this?
 

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If it starts and doesn't have a big miss then the lines are fine.
When it dies can you easily restart it or do you have to wait until it cools down again to start? Just thinking that the fuel shut-off solenoid(fss) and the cold start advance wires got swapped on the IP.

The IP has 2 electrical plugs in line on the top, the one toward the front bumper is the FSS, when it dies leave the key on and check the voltage at the FSS, should be 10.5 or higher.
 

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it starts relitively easy, but the glow plugs are shot thats why i have trouble sometimes starting it, and it does really well when i keep it under 45, it doesnt seem to wanna die, i have a little trouble starting it after it dies but if i let it cool it starts right up, i let the air out of the tire tube looking thing where the fuel filter is, but im going to try the wires even though im not sure what they are, this is my first diesel and im only 17, but thanks for the advice i appreciate it greatly
 

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Forget what I said about the wires, I misunderstood the problem you are having with your truck.

Not wanting to go over 45 could be a lot of things from a driver new to diesels and unsure about diesels and rpm, to something mechanical. Can we move this to a new post so we don't hijack this thread? It doesn't sound like your engine needs to have the lines bled.
 

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Here's how I do it, probably not the "approved" way but it works for me:
There is a schraeder valve, like a valve stem on a tire, on the filter,push in and hold the little spring loaded center part.
With the key off I use a screw driver to jump the starter solenoid and crank until steady solid fuel comes out the valve.
If it has run out of fuel or I'm putting in new injectors I loosen the fuel line to a couple injectors, then turn the key on and jump the solenoid again until she starts then tighten the fuel lines.
That's how I fill new filters, I never fill fuel filters by hand.
You helped me out on that I knew about the schraeder valve and everything but I didn't know about the jumping starter solenoid so that I could do it without another person. I took your method and added a little twist I had a spare toggle switch laying around so I wired the toggled switch to the starter solenoid so I could do it with the flip of a switch and have both hands free lol :no: Thanks for giving me that idea.
 

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I just changed my fuel filter; the Chilton repair manual says not to pre-fill the fuel filter with fuel, but to let the motor suck it through. I tried this and it wouldn’t start after about 3 minutes total of cranking and low battery power. I saw this page and this method worked like a charm. I used a nail and softly taped a cup in front of the nozzle while I jumped the ignition

My only suggestion, for safety purposes is to have someone else if possible crank the motor with the key from the inside because fuel and sparks from the screw driver don’t mix, and watch out for all those moving parts. I believe there is a way to open the valve temporarily without holding it in.
Diesel fuel will not ignite with a spark, so it’s perfectly safe to spill anywhere in the engine with no worries. Diesel fuel is not a gas and only combust under pressure or extreme heat far more heat than would be created in the engine compartment
 

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Remember that this is a mechanical fuel system. You will likely need to crack open the injector lines if you expect the engine to fire any time soon if you ran it really dry. All you do it crack loose all 8 fuel injector lines at each injector, not more than just cracking them. Then crank the engine until fuel begins squirting from the fittings and as they do, tighten the fittings one at a time. The fuel pump and lines will purge fairly quickly but I do caution that cranking an engine more than 30 seconds can overheat and damage the starter motor. It is okay if the engine starts before you tighten all of the lines. This is also relatively safe because when the fittings are loose there is no high pressure in the line.
 
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