The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a way to tighten up the gear shift (auto) to get the play out of it.
It feels so loose shifting from r to drive.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
nobody else has ever had this problem!!!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
I believe if you remove the shifter you'll see the bushing is missing or worn off. You should be able to get new bushings at you parts store or deffinetly at the dealer, but who likes to shop at the dealership. Hope this helped you out. Let me know how it goes.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,120 Posts
Look here first ....
 

· Registered
Joined
·
490 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guyes I will let you know!!!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
I have the same play in mine. Sometimes I have to start it in neutral or hold up on the shifter in the park position.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
Looks like you can adjust the gear select indicator. If you take off the fuse panel access door there is a little gear looking thing that can be adjusted by turning. It has a little copper wire that goes to the shift linkage. I adjusted the indicator so that the indicator was in the center of the park position. At first it did not start in park so moved to nuetral and started. Shut the truck down and started in park. Seems like the slop in park is better, I guess only time will tell. Here is link to photobucket pic: Adjusting shift indicator picture by galexander - Photobucket
 

· Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
try what action4478 say's first
 

· Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I didn't tear into it to see, but a ford service/parts guy just told me last week that mine was likely loose because two scews that actually hold the shifter in place were loose. I understood them to be under the rubber boot where the shifter goes into the steering column. I didn't look into it because of other issues as well, I decided to change the whole column.
Tim
 

· Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
I was having play on my gear shifter. I previously adjusted the gear select indicator so it would always start in park. Anyway, decided to tear into it a little more. Removed instrument cluster and found play in the the lower bushing on the gear shifter column. Getting up and down play and a little side to side in the gear shifter column at the bushing when I move the shifter slightly. Anyone ever replaced these without taking apart the whole dash more than I already have. I attached a photobucket pic. The bushing is in the center of the pic around the gear shifter column. Also, anyone know if I can start my truck with instrument panel unplugged? Not plan on driving it, just wanted to move it slightly. Thanks for any input, Part numbers would also be great if anyone has them handy.

bushing picture by galexander - Photobucket
 

· Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
I was having play on my gear shifter. I previously adjusted the gear select indicator so it would always start in park. Anyway, decided to tear into it a little more. Removed instrument cluster and found play in the the lower bushing on the gear shifter column. Getting up and down play and a little side to side in the gear shifter column at the bushing when I move the shifter slightly. Anyone ever replaced these without taking apart the whole dash more than I already have. I attached a photobucket pic. The bushing is in the center of the pic around the gear shifter column. Also, anyone know if I can start my truck with instrument panel unplugged? Not plan on driving it, just wanted to move it slightly. Thanks for any input, Part numbers would also be great if anyone has them handy.

bushing picture by galexander - Photobucket
I drilled 2 holes above that rear bracket to get a torx driver in
 

· Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
re

I drilled 2 holes above that rear bracket to get a torx driver in

I ended up using a little rachet bit wrench. Look almost like a wrench but has the 1/4 inch for the bit. I ended up getting a thin plastic bushing and cutting it in half then put it over the existing busing. No more slop. Now if I can just figure how to get the annoying slop out of the steering box. People following me probably think I am a drunk driver. Has about one inch of slop in the steering wheel.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
I ended up using a little rachet bit wrench. Look almost like a wrench but has the 1/4 inch for the bit. I ended up getting a thin plastic bushing and cutting it in half then put it over the existing busing. No more slop. Now if I can just figure how to get the annoying slop out of the steering box. People following me probably think I am a drunk driver. Has about one inch of slop in the steering wheel.
You can adjust the meshload with the screw on top of the box, others have had good luck with that but when I tried it it just made the steering weird, hard spots, tight, etc. NAPA has rebuilt ones with a lifetime warranty for about $200 so I just changed it out. Hardest part is getting the pitman arm off.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
re

You can adjust the meshload with the screw on top of the box, others have had good luck with that but when I tried it it just made the steering weird, hard spots, tight, etc. NAPA has rebuilt ones with a lifetime warranty for about $200 so I just changed it out. Hardest part is getting the pitman arm off.

Thanks for the info about Napa rebuilt. I have adjusted the nut on top and made it better but still have slop. I'm pretty sure it is isolate to the steering box. I can move the steering column shaft and see the slop at the gear box. The output to the linkage is not moving so I think that is it. How do you get the output gear off and the input shaft?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
The steering shaft is just one bolt and it slides up, the output gear has a big nut and is actually a taperlock spline and is the hard part. I ended up bending a pitman arm puller and taking the steering box out with it still attached, a little heat on the pitman arm and it broke free easily with another puller. Don't forget to check the tie rod that connects to the steering box, I replace a lot of those. Overall not a bad job though just make sure you don't spin the steering wheel with it disconnected because you WILL break the wiring....don't ask how i know that though......
 

· Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
So, I guess you need a puller to get the output off? Thanks for the advice.Have you ever rebuild the input part from the steering shaft?
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top