The Diesel Stop banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
97 F-250 HD
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a hammer gun, extensions, sockets, could get a torque wrench. I have changed them before on 4 bangers and much smaller stuff.

I only have a parking lot to work in and I can't be draining oil or getting it everywhere. (not sure if that is a part of this job)

How bad a job is it to do this myself? Is this something the (maybe below) average backyard mechanic can do in a day?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,894 Posts
ValveCover gaskets are fairly routine. No problems with oil or other fluids. Basically you are removing the intake stuff (hoses from air filter to turbo, breather adapter and bracket) and then it's really the valvecover bolts. The back ones by the firewall can be a pain. Some of the valvecover bolts are actually more of a stud, so I would have a set of metric deepwell sockets (13mm IIRC). Some u-joint socket adapters are sometimes useful too. Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,148 Posts
Before starting, test the glow plugs through the VCG connectors. If any test bad, I'd have at least a few new plugs on-hand (if not all 8) to swap, in case it's NOT just the VCGs themselves that are bad. You can re-test each GP while the VC is off.

(click this text)


The Right VC takes more effort because the engine is tight to the evaporator cover (especially if the engine mounts are broken, or the body mounts are collapsed). Consider either loosening the engine mounts & rocking the engine to the driver's side, or loosening the body mounts & jacking the body to the passenger side to give yourself more room to work.

(click this text)


The Left VC takes more time because of the few things that have to be removed to get to it. I also had to replace the 2 breather O-rings.

(click this text)


Mine didn't drip any fluids during the process. I haven't had to do it yet, but read up on replacing the injector O-rings. I have these in the truck for when it needs them:
(8 sets)
Amazon.com: Ford 3C3Z-9C064-BA - O RING: Automotive x2
 
  • Like
Reactions: combatvolcano

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,942 Posts
Not a hard job at all. First thing I would do is get the motor clean!! Get some simple green or Oil Eater and go to car wash/friends house and spend some time cleaning the engine so when you pull the covers you are not dropping dirt and crap into the heads. Make sure you have metric sockets shallow and deep!! I use 1/4 and 3/8 drive Don't try to get buy with standard ones. Do not use a impact wrench or gun. I would replace both wiring harness while you are in there. The hard to work bolt is the rear passenger side of the valve cover. It is done by feel. Not bad to get out but hard to get in. You will need a flex or wobble socket. Both heads are the same just reversed, so when you are trying to figure out the location of that passenger side rear bolt look at the front of the drivers side for reference. A wash pan, carb cleaner, and roll of paper towels in the bed will make a nice clean up station for parts. Throw some cardboard under the engine in case of small drips. 4 hour job if all go's well. DENNY
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
For the rear passenger side bolt. Go for it from behind the wheel well area under the truck, I fought it for awhile up top with extensions and universals. Finally I got mad and went in from under the the truck and got to it much easier. Pretty easy job overall, follow everyone's advice and it should be no problem.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top