The Diesel Stop banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I cannot remember the last time I took a vehicle to a mechanic other than to have tires put on and/or a 4 wheel alignment done, but after reading this thread I am somewhat worried about doing this repair. Utterly amazing that with 15,000 miles on the truck I am getting the P2285 code. Anyway, I have the correct sensor and the pigtail if I need it for a 2003 6.0 diesel, and I already had a 12 point 1 1/16" socket that fits the sensor correctly. Now, instead of cutting the socket down, can I just drop some washers in it to decrease the depth and allow the threaded portion of the sensor to protrude enough that I can screw it in? Is there another reason for cutting 3/4" off of this socket other than the fact that the sensor will slide into the socket?

In lieu of using washers in the socket, what about just putting some 3/8" rubber hose in there to prevent the sensor from sliding too far in?

Will the socket be too long to maneuver it correctly if I do not cut it down?

I am hoping to get this done from the bottom in an hour or two, but who knows. Since I started working on my Mustang 21 years ago, my motto has been to take my initial time estimate, multiply it by 3, and then that is usually the correct one. So, I'm looking forward to 3 to 6 hours on the truck this weekend. Sounds like it is going to be a blast.

Thanks to everybody that posted info on this thread. Without this thread and another one I found on another site, I would have been completely screwed.

Edit to add:

I did the repair today and went in from the top. I'm a small guy and trying to reach up from the bottom without a lift while laying on a dolly was utterly tough. I spent all of 5 minutes deciding to tackle the job from the top. I spent 4 hours on the job never having done any work in my F350's motor before and it wasn't too terrible.

For those wondering like I did about cutting down that 1 1/16" socket, cut it down. If you don't cut it down you can hardly get it in there and then it is resting against a heat shield so it is impossible to get the swivel onto the socket. Best destruction of a good socket I have ever had, and definitely worth the cost of a new socket to replace it. The most frustrating part for me was trying to get the pigtail back on the ICP Sensor because the tab was 180 degrees from where it had been on the bad sensor and trying to line everything up and then push the plug in was very tough. Otherwise, a lot of time just spent moving parts out of the way to get to the ICP sensor.

After replacing it, the truck runs smoother and it has a ton more power. It pulls really well when accelerating now.

Again, thanks to everybody that posted to this thread. I was coming in and out of the house while doing the repair so I could read this thread and look at the pics.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I keep my cut-down socket on my workbench shelf as a reminder of this job from hell. :wink2: Should it go again, the dealer will be doing it.
No sooner do I write above that I cannot remember the last time I took a vehicle to the dealer for work, and I have to take my F350 to the dealer to get the HCFM fuel filter cap replaced. I was replacing the fuel filter for the first time on my truck and made the mistake of doing it before checking out this website. With diesel fuel leaking everywhere, I cross threaded the filter cap and could not get it back off. That cost $230 at the dealer.

I cannot imagine what they charge to change the ICP sensor. Anybody know what the dealer charges for this repair when it is not covered under warranty?

FYI - I'm cheap and it hurt to pay the $230 for the fuel filter cap replacement. Luckily, they were pretty nice about what they charged me because the intial estimate was $288.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
First thank each and every one of you for the posts.
Second let me describe the problem(s) with my ahem NEW 2003 6.0 w/160Kmiles, which we thought we were getting a good deal on as it was 4k under average sales prices in area.
It does have an oil leak on top passengers side. didn't know anything about 6.0l's notorious history with issues and "BULLETPROOFING". I traveled 1000 miles from wife and truck to visit my Dad and to get some Better Medical Opinions and assistance with my Disability and am now helping father through Super Storm Sandy Aftermath. My wife called and said that the truck was bucking and stalling. hard sluggish starting even after 10-20 mins idling. when i left i had filled the oil, was leaking a quart or so every 1000-1500 miles. She went to auto parts store and they checked her oil level after the stalling (approx 1500 miles after i left) and they told her it was low and added oil. 12, yes TWELVE, F-ing QUARTS. which I find hard to believe it didn't post a single error, or more likely SEIZE the engine. So my assumption is that they flooded the case with an extra 8-10 quarts or somehow conned her with AIR-OIL, though she swears she watched nim put two 5.5 quart jugs in after she put one quart at gas station. but I cant prove nuttin' as I am 1000+ miles away. She has driven almost another 1500 miles since and the dipstick shows less than 1/2 quart low...But still hard starting and still occasionally sluggish for first 5-10 miles. and yesterday after 3 attempts to start ENGINE light came on. had her stop at auto-zone ran the OBD II and pulled a single p2285 ICP error. made them clear the code (after them b!tching they are not suppose to) just to see if it may of been caused to the failed starting/multiple quick keying on/off/on/off. cause she still ain't use to using a diesel and wants to treat it like a GAS engine (jump in, key on, tear away at 100mph....she has a heavy foot and LOTS of road rage..LOL). she drove the 20 miles home without any other p2285or any other codes that would cause engine light to trigger.

SO...after my long narrative my questions are.....

1) can the oil leak/non-bulletproofing have effected the ICP?
2) can the mysterious missing 12 quarts/overfilling caused ICP damage?
3) can the ICP be causing the hard sluggish starts and stalling and NOT post any errors?
4) what else could be causing the issue(s)?
5) what other JOYS do I have to look forward to with the 6.0. (been building race engines, Nitrous, small engines, electrical. hydraulic for 30+ years...But this is the first DIESEL I'm now responsible to maintain and am disabled 47yr old 6'4 guy who can't walk/bend well (cause according to the posts you need to be short with ape-length arms and child-sized hands to work on this beast)?
6) can anyone figure out where the "F" 12 quarts of oil went?

and finally question #7....the most important question....
DOES ANYONE KNOW A GOOD CHEAP HIT-MAN THAT I CAN CONTRACT TO DEAL WITH THE SOB THAT SOLD ME THE TRUCK????
Sincerely
Patrick
Can only really address question #3. When I had my ICP issue, the truck was hard to start and running like crap before the code even came on. I was actually praying for a code to be thrown so I would have a clue what I needed to fix.

Regarding question #2, if the dipstick is showing that the oil level is correct in the truck, then how could the oil have been the problem if it was never overfilled? Either it was actually 12 quarts low, or the salesmen used empty oil containers in front of your wife. Then again, maybe he poured it into the transmission. I have heard of people doing that. Doing an oil change and blowing the engine because they poured the new motor oil into the transmission. How they can accomplish that, I have no idea.

The repair isn't too bad, but it sucks in that it could have been prevented by a little smarter engineering on Ford's part. They should have recalled the truck for this issue and put in the new valve cover with the revised ICP sensor in it.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top