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Thanks to everyone!

Greg and Guys

I know you all are hearing this (reading this) a lot but I did the sensor swap last weekend. The 3 hours was right on! If I could have sent my wife and kid somewhere else I would have been right on the 3 hours! All in all it was not that bad. I tried to tell the dealer that ICP is all I wanted Done! They wanted to make me pay for this and that so I decided that if they were not going to do what I told them I wanted done then I would do it myself.

Thank you for the pics! The info has been great! My neighbor came over and could not believe that I had all this data and I was doing it myself. I do not get some people sometimes.

Next is my 79 CJ7!

Thank you very much!

Twidget
 

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Was wondering if getting to the sensor on my 6/03 would be easier from underneath the truck. Remove the front drive shaft for more access (8 bolts), the heat shield (3 bolts) and there it is, right? Or is there a good reason I should attack this from the top of the engine? Thanks!
 

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Well, I answered my own question. Did the ICP swap from underneath the truck. About a hour's worth of work (not including breaks). Followed Ford's shop procedure with the addition of removing the front drive shaft. It would help to have long skinny arms if you try this.
 

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I did mine today and I don't see how you can do it from underneath. Once I got it loose I removed it from under and reinstalled it, but I still needed to break it loose and tighten it from the top.
I did it today in under an hour(including breaks) from the top.
But, Tuesday I F'ed with it for three hours, and ended up putting it back together, so I had everything removed today in about 10 minutes.
 

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The trick to getting it out from underneath is to use a 1-1/16" deep socket with about an inch cut off the end (socket is about $10 at sears). It fits right over the sensor and you can loosen and tighten it with a rachet. That was the easiest part of the whole job.
 

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It's a Ford part... you're unlikely to find it anywhere but Ford dealers. I found mine on Ebay for about half the cost of the dealer's. The part numbers are different for different model years so be sure you know what you need before buying.
 

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This is a great post! I've been seeing more ICP related posts on here as of late. I guess I'm gonna have to add it to my pre-warranty termination checklist. I have either until June 4, 2009, or near 12k left on my deductible warranty. I'm sure I won't make it to June 4th!. Mine is a huntsville 5/21/03 engine. So--- this thing is on the drivers side of the engine block? or is it mounted ON the valve cover. I gathered that it's somewhat under the FICM, or behind it or something?

OK.. I see now. I was having trouble figuring out at first, just where the cameraman was standing! =)
 

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This is a great post! I've been seeing more ICP related posts on here as of late. I guess I'm gonna have to add it to my pre-warranty termination checklist. I have either until June 4, 2009, or near 12k left on my deductible warranty. I'm sure I won't make it to June 4th!. Mine is a huntsville 5/21/03 engine. So--- this thing is on the drivers side of the engine block? or is it mounted ON the valve cover. I gathered that it's somewhat under the FICM, or behind it or something?

OK.. I see now. I was having trouble figuring out at first, just where the cameraman was standing! =)
5/03 = driver's (left) side, top/back of the engine, behind a heat shield. If a 4WD, remove the front drive shaft for better access. You also need to loosen the trans dip stick tube to reach heat shield bolts on right side of engine.
 

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Thanks again!
 

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My very early 03 (produced 12/02) now has the dreaded code and symptoms for the ICP sensor. I got the recall updated sensor in the first couple of months of 03, but my recollection is that it was the -BA part and they quickly got up to -EA but never went back and RE-recalled the earlier recalls. So no big surprise it's now failing again. And obviously it didn't get the connector replacement at the time either.

Just to verify, the part I need is 3C3Z-9F838-EA...and the 4C3Z-9F838-A part that's for sale cheap everywhere is *not* going to work? Lucky me, I get the more expensive sensor in the place that's harder to reach! Should have waited until late 04 to buy a truck...

Duncan
 

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My very early 03 (produced 12/02) now has the dreaded code and symptoms for the ICP sensor. I got the recall updated sensor in the first couple of months of 03, but my recollection is that it was the -BA part and they quickly got up to -EA but never went back and RE-recalled the earlier recalls. So no big surprise it's now failing again. And obviously it didn't get the connector replacement at the time either.

Just to verify, the part I need is 3C3Z-9F838-EA...and the 4C3Z-9F838-A part that's for sale cheap everywhere is *not* going to work? Lucky me, I get the more expensive sensor in the place that's harder to reach! Should have waited until late 04 to buy a truck...

Duncan
3c3z-9f838-ea is the part I used on my '03. Paid $50 for it on Ebay, so it's not that bad if you can find one. I didn't replace my connector at the time (nor saw any need to) The heat shield was intact and it's been running great since the new sensor went in. I've even picked up some mpg...
 

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Well, I bought the Snap On tool today to find that the sensor is too large for the Snap On tool. The sensor is part number 3c3z-9f838-ea. I hope the Snap on guy has a tool to fit it now :(
 

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Well, I bought the Snap On tool today to find that the sensor is too large for the Snap On tool. The sensor is part number 3c3z-9f838-ea. I hope the Snap on guy has a tool to fit it now :(
Don't need an expensive tool for this job...

The trick to getting it out from underneath is to use a 1-1/16" deep socket with about an inch cut off the end (socket is about $10 at sears). It fits right over the sensor and you can loosen and tighten it with a rachet. That was the easiest part of the whole job.
 

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I just got the socket, but I don't have the sensor yet! I hope I got the right one (it sure looks like it). It's a 1-1/16" deep-but-not-very-deep-well socket with a spring clip near the opening, presumably to hold the sensor in place while you're working back in that blind cave at the end of an extension and u-joint drive! Part number is S6196KR, is that the one you've ended up with now?

Sensor and pigtail are on their way (cheap on ebay!), now if I could just order some warm weather...

Duncan
 

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OK, the warm weather finally arrived and I did the job. It did take every bit of the 3 hours that people talk about. What an incredible amount of work to replace one stupid sensor! I spent most of that 3 hours designing punishments for the engineers who allowed it to end up back there...

Here are some comments on what I found and did.

I got the Snap-On socket made for the task and so should you. Dead simple with that thing!

I flipped a coin and decided the "in from the top" method sounded simpler than the "up from the bottom" method. But you know what? I did both, and I am not sure how you avoid that. I went in from the top and that allowed me to pull up the wiring harness to work on it to splice in the new connector. I don't know how you could do that purely working from the bottom...unless you didn't replace it, but that seems unwise. Mine was completely oil-logged. But what I couldn't do from the top was get the socket on the ICP sensor! That stupid heat shield is in the way, the one you remove when going in from the bottom. I guess you could avoid that if you didn't use the socket, but that would be insane, in my opinion.

So I worked from the bottom to remove the heat shield, which allowed me to get the socket on the sensor... and hey, from down there you don't need any crazy u-joints or anything. Just slap a 3/8" drive ratchet handle on the socket and it comes right out. You can easily turn it by hand once you get it started. Threading in the new one is... "interesting" since you're kind of working blind, but it's doable.

I didn't drop the front drive shaft. Working around it was not really any big deal. Much bigger deals were: The sharp protrusion at the bottom left rear edge of the block; the auto trans dipstick tube; having to take out that (*&*&$^&&**(())_(_)(#[email protected] air filter when getting at stuff from the top.

Getting the heat shield back on was "fun" but doable. As long as you have skinny arms and can thread bolts into holes with one hand while not able to see what you're doing. Once you get it to stay in place with the first one in, it gets easier.

The from-the-top instructions mentioned removing a bolt on the back corner of the manifold. I was picturing an exhaust manifold bolt and my long nightmarish history with those snapping off on vehicles, etc. No, no, no, this is just a little stud that is there to bolt a ring terminal ground wire down to. Easy as can be to get out and put back and you *do* want to do that or else you will gouge the living crap out of your arm back there.

I managed to just unbolt the expansion tank and remove the little line that leads over to the passenger side, and just lay it over on its side while still all connected... this avoids the huge mes of draining it and removing it completely. You lose a few ounces of coolant, that's all. (OF COURSE make sure to relieve pressure before removing that little hose! Then put the cap back on tightly.)

Same deal with the FICM - I undid the 4 bolts holding it down (plus the bracket that covers two of its bolts and connects to the intake tube) and then just leaned it over to the left side of the compartment. I didn't hassle with removing all the connectors to it.

The air filter and upper intake tube were removed to make room for all those laying-over pieces, and for me to lay over the engine - I put a folder-over moving blanket across everything and just surfed back to where I needed to work.

Have a good bright small flashlight that you don't mind getting greasy. It helps a lot when trying to spot stuff back in the nether reaches (the ICP sensor, the bolts for the heat shield, etc.)

Cleared the code with a reader and it's been off ever since. Hasn't done one of its occasional surges either. By golly I think that's fixed!

Duncan
 

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teamroper60 you got it right, the frist time you change that @#@# sensor is a pain but the next time should be a breeze. total time for us was 5hrs we had to find someone to cut down the socket after deceiding that was the only solution. the next hangup was the heat shield and lining up the bolts thanks again to ford,be better if it was on studs and you could just remove nuts and slid on and off . if a next time we might try getting truck up in the air to make reaching ICP sensor easier.
 

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Frobozz, Thanks for the write up, it came in handy for me. I ended up using a 3" long, 1/2" drive 1 1/16" socket with a breaker bar, and it worked for me, but what a pain in the ass! I don't care to EVER do that job again! I don't drink anymore but I damn well DO deserve a drink now...LOL. It got dark on me last night so I didn't finish it. The new sensor is installed, just need to install the new connector/pigtail and reassemble everything. I also bought my parts on Ebay...144.99 shipped.
 
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