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wire harness

On the new wire harness the leads are the same color , Does it matter how the wires go together ? After I replaced the ICP sensor and harness I'm having a starting issue . I now have to wait approx. 10 seconds after the wait to start light goes out before the truck will start .


Thanks
 

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Thought you guys might like to see how to replace the early style ICP sensor. Seems to have been a hot topic here recently.

Parts required

First step, after you determine that you need to replace this sensor and/or connector, is to remove the air filter, degas jug, FICM, and the rear stud on the intake manifold.

You'll then see this - pretty much:

ICP sensor with interfering components removed
Zoomed in some

Use a long right angle pick to take loose the ICP sensor connector. Pull it up and out of the way. Use a long extension, a 1 1/16th crowfoot, and a swivel to get the sensor loose. You'll need some long, nimble fingers to fish the sensor out. This is where you are thanking me for telling you to remove the rear intake manifold stud.

Now take a look at what you got:

Oily ICP sensor
Makes for an oily harness

Install your new ICP sensor, and splice in your new pigtail connector. Trim the wires to the same length - you don't want a lot of wire back there that can contact the exhaust!

Trimming the wires

Put on what you took off, and you're done!

Now go pull the roof off a few cold ones. You deserve it.

On my passanger valve cover sticker my truck says 2003 (a325) direct injection turbo diesel engine. I would like to have better picture of the location of the wiring harness of the IPC and the IPC control sensor. I took my truck to the Ford dealer knowing it coded P2285, the dealer replaced IPC and harness. I cannot tell where they replaced the part. and i didn't get the old part back. There was no dirt or dust rubbed off the engine and no tool marks on the nuts or bolts. Is this possible to change the ICP unit and not see the area they worked in? I feel maybe they reprogramed the PCM (brain box). They charged me $422.01 and sent me out the door. I feel i may have been taken advantage of, how can go about checking to make sure they really did replace IPC and wiring harness.

FD 3c3z/ 9f838/ ea Sensor $150.00
FD 5c3z/ 12224/a Connector $ 73.47

Diagnosistic Test and R 53 M A $157.00

Do you know what the diagnosistic test really test for, just ICP or the whole truck?? Any information or better picture where my IPC is hiding?? thanks
 

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The diagnostic test would technically be for the whole truck as I'm sure they'd use the OBD II port - which will give you codes for anything that's wrong (that has a code :D).

As far as not seeing what's been replaced...I wouldn't doubt it. I haven't done mine yet but I've looked at a few pictures and stared at my truck for a while and I still can't see the sensor - of course it's bee dark outside when I was looking but the point is - that sensor is WAY in the back and is very hard to see...
 

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.....Do you know what the diagnosistic test really test for, just ICP or the whole truck?? Any information or better picture where my IPC is hiding?? thanks


They have to plug in the scanner and pull all codes, and if it has not set a hard code, sample the sensor output under varying conditions. There is usually a set price at all dealerships for using this expensive equipment.

For an '03 like both of ours, the ICP sensor is located underneath the turbo at the back of the motor. I would suggest you put the truck on jackstands, sit up behind the motor on the drivers side and remove the heat shield. I'd wait until the motor is cooled down. Then with a mirror you can see if the sensor is new. BTW, not an uncommon problem on this motor.

The ICP sensor is the little silver hex thing in the middle of the picture.



The picture is from a IH show motor with no trans or cab behind it.
 

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Finished mine up tonight, I can say I've had more fun working on a vehicle before!

Came in from the top.

Removed degas bottle - removed the one line going to the passenger side and tilted it up - didn't lose any fluid - I didn't even forget to release the pressure first!

Removed FICM - only unplugged the two furthest (of three) connections. This allowed me to move it to the drivers side far enough.

Removed the ground stud - this is where it got fun! When I tried to loosen the top nut to get the wire off the whole stud broke loose. I originally tried holding the bottom nut with a wrench but it wouldn't fit so I tried holding it with pliers and that didn't work either. Eventually I took a grinder to a 10mm wrench and made a skinny wrench that fit between the two nuts so I could get the top one off. I bet a small ignition wrench would work if you had one.

Unhooked the sensor that's on the same wire loom as the ICP sensor, the one with the metal clip - came off pretty easy. This is the one the red arrow in my pictures is pointing to!

Unhooked the ICP sensor wire. I didn't have a long pick but my clip was in a spot I could reach it with a long screwdriver...I didn't say it was fun or easy but I got it!

To remove the sensor I had bought a 1 1/16" deep socket from the parts store that I tried using without cutting it down...didn't work...I didn't think. I originally thought it was but then after trying to loosen the sensor by hand, and it wouldn't move, I figured it didn't work. After messing with the long socket for a while I decided to cut it and in the middle of that I realized I had a 1 1/16" short socket and I wasn't going to reuse the sensor so I just took a long screwdriver and popped off the plastic connector on the old sensor and used the short socket to remove it - worked like a charm! I just put a long pry bar against the plastic connector on the sensor and tapped the end of the bar, barely tapped it and it came off surprisingly easy. Once I put the short socket on I could turn it by hand - that's when I realized I loosened it earlier.

Then I cleaned everything up. I did not buy a harness and mine wasn't too bad but I did use some carb cleaner and took all the rubber parts of the connector and sprayed it out pretty good then hit with some air. After that I filled the connector up with dielectric grease (both the sensor and the harness) then put the rubber seals back on. With any luck the grease will help keep the oil out for a while. I did not put grease in the sensor yet, I didn't do that until it was installed.

From there I put everything back together. I used a 3/8" fuel hose and put it on the end of the sensor - it goes inside the connector - with that I used a piece of wire (an old antenna) to help support the sensor while I rotated the hose. I got it started this way then was able to barely get a finger on it to engage a couple of more threads. Then I put cut down deep socket on and tightened it up.

Reinstalled the stud, FICM and degas bottle. Cleaned up, cleared the check engine light and started her up - runs perfect with no more hunting/surging idle!

Here's a couple of pictures...I didn't take any pictures of removing the degas bottle or the FICM - that's easy enough. I wanted to make sure I got some clear pics of the sensor!


Picture 1 - The red arrow points to the silver covering. That silver cover is covering the wires that go to a DIFFERENT sensor but remember that location! Those wires are on the same harness as the ICP sensor.

Picture 2 - With everything removed we're getting a little closer - red arrow goes to the same place as last time - white arrow points to ICP connector - at this point the harness has been moved.

Picture 3 - A little better and closer shot of the ICP.

Picture 4 - One last picture just because I have it!
 

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6.0 Diesel runs VERY rough. VERY hard start. Top Speed 50mph

I just opened my account and am anable to post a new thread. Hopefully somebody will see this 'reply' and can help me out....
I have a 2007 4x4 6.0L Diesel w/ automatic transmission. I was recently on a trip when my problem started. I was towing a 12,000 # 5th wheel travel trailer to the Canadian border. I had driven approximately 1350 miles with the trailer in tow. I was getting approximately 11mpg. I was 40 miles from my destination and my fuel guage showed just under 1/4 tank. I stopped and filled up. I pulled out of the station and after traveling about 2 miles the truck started running 'different'. The rpm's got higher (because it was not shifting into a higher gear) and the engine became weaker and weaker very quickly until I was eventually stopped beside the road in the middle of an uphill stretch. After a couple minutes, the truck restarted after a minute of cranking. It was running VERY rough and with very LITTLE power. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to travel the last 40 miles of my trip - having to repeat this process several times and only able to achieve a top speed of approximately 30 MPH. I got a room and met with the buyers of the trailer the following morning. The truck started fairly quickly and seemed to be running WAY better. I got back on the road and after a couple miles of 70MPH driving, the symptoms returned. It took me about an hour to get back to the fuel station where I had filled up. Convinced that I had received 'bad fuel' - I felt compelled to stop in and ask if they had any similar complaints and also to ask if there was a repair shop nearby. There was an auto shop next door, but they "didn't work on diesels." They did, however, install both new fuel filters. No real change in the way the truck was running. I was 50 miles from the nearest Ford dealership and the tow bill was going to be $275.00. They weren't going to be able to look at it until Monday (today). I had a heavy-duty tow strap with me and a lot of time on my hands, so I decided to try to save the $275 and left for the dealership. The truck started running a little better at a time so that by the time I passed through the town where the dealership was, I decided to keep heading for home. The performance never got better, but it did quit stalling all the way out. I was able to reach speeds between 50 and 70 MPH on the 1350 mile trip home. On the highway, the truck is barely driveable. Off the ramps for fuel, it was a lot of praying each time. I limped it home and to the local dealership where it is now. They can't look at it for a week. I have a garage full of tools and wouldn't mind tackling this myself if it is something that I can fix. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks
 

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I can agree with several on this one thing. THIS IS ONE repair I dread doing again and SOO thank you guys for your insite in how to do this. I bought my 1 1/16 socket from Autozone and its 3" long so i left it alone. Came in from the top and took me ALOT longer than the 3 hours but I had to take my time and did a few oil clean up items also. Stinkin Ground wire on the Intake manifold stud was a major pain as it broke.

All together, SOO Glad this site is here and the guys that took the time to doc the steps. Have to say thank you to you all.

Scot
 

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I cannot remember the last time I took a vehicle to a mechanic other than to have tires put on and/or a 4 wheel alignment done, but after reading this thread I am somewhat worried about doing this repair. Utterly amazing that with 15,000 miles on the truck I am getting the P2285 code. Anyway, I have the correct sensor and the pigtail if I need it for a 2003 6.0 diesel, and I already had a 12 point 1 1/16" socket that fits the sensor correctly. Now, instead of cutting the socket down, can I just drop some washers in it to decrease the depth and allow the threaded portion of the sensor to protrude enough that I can screw it in? Is there another reason for cutting 3/4" off of this socket other than the fact that the sensor will slide into the socket?

In lieu of using washers in the socket, what about just putting some 3/8" rubber hose in there to prevent the sensor from sliding too far in?

Will the socket be too long to maneuver it correctly if I do not cut it down?

I am hoping to get this done from the bottom in an hour or two, but who knows. Since I started working on my Mustang 21 years ago, my motto has been to take my initial time estimate, multiply it by 3, and then that is usually the correct one. So, I'm looking forward to 3 to 6 hours on the truck this weekend. Sounds like it is going to be a blast.

Thanks to everybody that posted info on this thread. Without this thread and another one I found on another site, I would have been completely screwed.

Edit to add:

I did the repair today and went in from the top. I'm a small guy and trying to reach up from the bottom without a lift while laying on a dolly was utterly tough. I spent all of 5 minutes deciding to tackle the job from the top. I spent 4 hours on the job never having done any work in my F350's motor before and it wasn't too terrible.

For those wondering like I did about cutting down that 1 1/16" socket, cut it down. If you don't cut it down you can hardly get it in there and then it is resting against a heat shield so it is impossible to get the swivel onto the socket. Best destruction of a good socket I have ever had, and definitely worth the cost of a new socket to replace it. The most frustrating part for me was trying to get the pigtail back on the ICP Sensor because the tab was 180 degrees from where it had been on the bad sensor and trying to line everything up and then push the plug in was very tough. Otherwise, a lot of time just spent moving parts out of the way to get to the ICP sensor.

After replacing it, the truck runs smoother and it has a ton more power. It pulls really well when accelerating now.

Again, thanks to everybody that posted to this thread. I was coming in and out of the house while doing the repair so I could read this thread and look at the pics.
 

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My ICP sensor

Just to let everyone know THANK YOU. It took me about 5 hrs. but I broke the manifold stud and one stud for the FICM BUT still. I had to have my daughter come out and stick er hane in to start threading the sensor in AND ook up the new pigtail. My neighbor has a lathe so cuttting the socket was no biggy. I think the longest part of the job was actually finding the damn thing. Even with everything off it took 45 min to find it. But I am blind as it is. LOL :) But thanks to the info I got everything fixed and my truck is running normal again. I do have a question thoug. Is there any way to mount it in the valve cover like they do in the 04+? Also I was thinking of just putting an adapter with a tube that came up top to mount the sensor. Anyone thought of this? Could that cause problems?

Again THANK YOU !!!!

Ron
 

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...... Also I was thinking of just putting an adapter with a tube that came up top to mount the sensor. Anyone thought of this? Could that cause problems?

Again THANK YOU !!!!

Ron
Working on it.
 

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I keep my cut-down socket on my workbench shelf as a reminder of this job from hell. :wink2: Should it go again, the dealer will be doing it.
 

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I keep my cut-down socket on my workbench shelf as a reminder of this job from hell. :wink2: Should it go again, the dealer will be doing it.
No sooner do I write above that I cannot remember the last time I took a vehicle to the dealer for work, and I have to take my F350 to the dealer to get the HCFM fuel filter cap replaced. I was replacing the fuel filter for the first time on my truck and made the mistake of doing it before checking out this website. With diesel fuel leaking everywhere, I cross threaded the filter cap and could not get it back off. That cost $230 at the dealer.

I cannot imagine what they charge to change the ICP sensor. Anybody know what the dealer charges for this repair when it is not covered under warranty?

FYI - I'm cheap and it hurt to pay the $230 for the fuel filter cap replacement. Luckily, they were pretty nice about what they charged me because the intial estimate was $288.
 

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ICP replacement, thanks for pics!

Thanks for the pic on how to replace ICP sensor. Awesome and what a great forum.

Here's a question. When I replaced my ICP sensor was I supposed to reset something? It doesn't seem to have helped my issue of surging and a rough cold start. Also, should I have replaced the connection?

I going to try replacing the connection today but I have noticed that there is a connection that is right beside the ICP connector. What is that? It has bare wires showing.

Any help is greatly appriciated.
 

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ICP sensor and connector replaced and now truck wont start

Crap. I have a 2004 Excursion. It is surging, idles rough and seems to be getting worse gas mileage. I just got done replacing the ICP sensor and the connector, put everything back together and now it will not start. When i started the project i unplugged the negative battery terminal. I'm just hoping that has somnething to do it not starting. Can anyone help?:brickwall:The truck turn over but will not starrt.
 

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Thread mode on! Quick question. CAn I getting my FICM programmed without it being in the truck? I called the dealer and they said I need to have it installed in order to program it but I can purchase one on line already programmed. I'm confused.

Here's teh full story:
I replaced the ICP sensor and the connection. Now truck will not start just turn over. I double checked the connection and the wires and they are correct so i am assuming that something is wrong with FICM. Any help or enlightenment is greatly appreciated.
 

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The only question I have here is, do you need to remove the heat shield off the back of the engine to get this done from the top?

I have the new IPC, the original was changed under warranty and so was the harness.
That was 100,000 miles ago I I am having issues now.
 

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I'm definitely no full time mechanic but by what everyone is finally telling me is that I need to replace the ICP sensor. Found this site and now I may actually have some clue as to what I'll be doing when I dive into it tomorrow. I've read a lot of different posts stating that some people found it easier to get it from underneth and some from above. Now I'm no small guy so what is going to be the easiest way to get to this on my 03 F350

Thanks for all the great info and pics which I'm sure will help...
 

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As an after thought, does the EBS use the same size thread and fitting as the IPC? Why couldn't someone use an AN to flare fitting and a length of steel tube to a flare and fitting and bracket like the EBS and move the little bugger to a locaton with the connector pointing forward just behind the FICM There is plenty of wire harness and no more fighting behind the turbo. Just a thought, and I will not even demand copy writes to it. The IPC only needs to read pressure and a short length of tube will not change responce time all that much.
 
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