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Ok here we go, Went to Sears this morning and got a brand new 12 point 1 1/16 socket, Spent untold amount of time with the sawzall cutting it down.

Started on the truck removing everything ( getting good at that part done it 3 or 4 times now) Air filter, amd intake parts and the two small hoses to the coolant tank. I have large rubber caps I put on the barbs for those hoses so no need draining coolant, I can unbolt the coolant tank and just roll it forward and down. Took out the FICM and the rear stud on the manifold. With all that out I unplugged the IPR and the reached back there and unplugged the IPC. After roughly 100,000 miles on it the connector was again full of oil.

With the ne cut down socket,a universal, and all the 1/2 inch drive extentions I had, I got the IPC loose then unscrewed it by hand. Putting the new one in was a bit of a trick. I used a chunk of 1/2 inch garden hose and a short chunk of aluminum tubing I had. I put the hose on the end of the tubing and the new IPC in the end of the hose. Standing on a small step ladder beside the driver's side fender I was able to hold a flashlight and reach in and start the treads by turning the tubing.

Then it was back to the socket and everything together in the reverse of how it came appart. I would say it too longer to cut the socket and get everything ready then it did with the acual change. Thanks Guys for the great posting.
 

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working on tackleing mine now waiting on the sensor ($150 for sensor and connectr on ebay) i took everything apart from the top then got on here read up some then went back out and crawled under the truck and low and behold its right there in front of me NO heat shield so obviously someone has done this before me but no worries i reached right up and took the connector off i have plenty of room i belive i might drop the drive shaft for a little extra comfort but i dont belive a have a need to this i an awesome thread you guys are very helpful
 

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My experience

Replaced my ICP yesterday. Removed all parts listed in the begining of this thread. I purchased a 1/2" drive 1 1/8" deep well socket from Auto Zone (Cheap since I was going to weld on it) put a swivel on the socket and a 12" extension with a ratchet and took it right off. I was planning to do the cutting and welding of a handle onto the socket but on my early 04 I didn't need to. It was alot easier than I expected. Now my problem is trying to get the IPR out.:flame:
 

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I am right int he middle of doing mine now. I picked up a 1 1/16 deep socket from OReilly's, and I did not have to cut mine down, but my universal was a little shorter than the new one I bought, and that may have made the difference.

I removed that stud at the back of the manifold and I pulled the FICM and its mounting bracket off the valve cover and removed the Degas bottle. I had no problems reaching in with the socket/universal/extension setup and breaking the sensor loose. I was even able to reach my hand back there and finish unscrewing it by hand to remove.

I would have put it back together last night, however I plan on soldering the new pigtail connections and heat shrinking them and it was to late for me to tackel soldering, so I left the assembly part of the job for tonight.

BTW, I did alot of reasearch and instead of getting the parts frmo Ford, I ordered mine from the International Dealer. And you now what, the Sensor that same out of the truck had the International Part number on it. I paid about $85 for the sensor and $20 for the pigtail.

When I pulled the FICM, I saw its International Stickers on the bottom of it. I will be getting as many parts as I can for this thing form International as the need replacing. HUGE price difference...
 

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Ok, I just attempted this nightmare!!!. I read everything I could from different forum posts. I had my game plan and tools and was willing to give this a try. I have never done any work on a diesel. My mechanic experience is spark plugs, brakes, filters, etc. So I was a little hesitant, but wanted to save the 230.00 of labor the dealer wanted to charge me. Purchased the updated ICP sensor with harness for 140.00 on eBay.

It took me 4 1/2 hours to do. Some of the things I struggled with were

The Degas bottle, I removed the passenger side tube and then basically moved it to where the air filter was on the side. That seemed to work fine.

FICM - That damn thing has bolts in the tightest places. Plus removing the electrical connectors was nerve racking. Its like do I squeze on them or put a flat head on them to get them disconnected. There is a clip you can press that releases them, but its tough, not a lot of room there. After I got that off, I then removed the bracket, again tight quarters. I then removed the two back glow plugs connectors.

At first I'm like where is that damn ICP at, I see this heat shield down there and I'm like oh great, am I going to have to cut that. I grabbed some needle nose and pulled on it and the heat shield sleeve released and pulled back and now I could see the ICP.

I was able to remove both connector barely with my fingers, since the conector was on top. This was a relief, mine looked good so I didn't use a new wiring harness that I bought with the ICP.

So my biggest issue was, getting my damn cut down 1 1/16 6 sided socket on the ICP. For the life of my I couldn't get it on. It wasn't lining up and I wasn't getting the right angle. I played with this for about an hour. The problem I was having is that this heat metal shield was barely touching my socket from the side, so I wasn't getting the best angle to put the socket on. I then went under the truck and see if I could remove the heat shield. After about 30 seconds, no freaking way.

So this was a big help for me. I took a golf shaft, but you can use some pole and basically pounded the heat shield back about a 1/2 to a 1nch away further from the ICP. After doing this, I then had no issue putting on my socket, plus it gave more room in the area. I removed the ICP and then replaced the new one with the 3/8 gas line tube from Auto Zone. That worked great, just remember the tube goes on the inside. Took me a bit to figure that out. I thought it was being pulled over the top. I know, I'm a DA.

After tightening it down, I then put on the ICP connector the other sensor and I thought I was good and realized I forgot to put back on the heat shield sleeve. So I had to remove the connectors again.. Now I was getting ++_ing pissed. Got them removed heat shield sleeve in place and put back the connectors one. I'm just praying that I haven't pulled some wire loose from the connector.

Put back on the glow plugs, FICM and was nervous about those connectors. I hope they stay. I just worry about when your pulling on them or pushing on them etc.

Then had a fun time getting that ### air cleaner box back in.

I tried to ask if somebody new how to clear codes. So I didn't worry about this. I figured what the heck, go for it and see what the engine light does.

I then went and started it and it started right up. The engine light went right off and seems to be idling great and took it for a spin and seems a lot better.

After about 4 hours, I wasn't sure if saving the money was worth it. I'm still 50/50 on it. My hands all bruised, getting off and on the truck a million times. Just keeping my fingers crossed that all the connectors stay that way, because its seems the problem is fixed.
 

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Whew!

That was a stressful operation. Not being able to see the darn thing until you get in there and get the heat shield sleeve off was a pisser...I like to see what the goal is before I start doing surgery. I made the mistake of using a 1/2" socket which was way too fat. Wound up putting it on the milling machine, gouging out the inside, trimming it down to 2.25". Another trick was to wrap the universal with duct tape so that it wasn't as floppy. Getting the connector back on was down right miraculous...I temporarily taped the heat shield and other connector back to get them out of the way, carefully positioned it somehow and got it home with a long screwdriver...sure sounds easy looking back, but at the time was very stressful. Looking back I would gladly pay the dealer the $500 they wanted...I hope it lasts another 50k miles.
~J
 

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I just ordered my ICP kit off ebay and I have a machinist buddy that will cut down a socket ahead of time. I have read different overall length measurements on various posts. Does anybody have the measurement for the "safe" inside length (i.e just long enough to fit over the ICP?) I dont have the ICP yet to measure.

Thanks
 

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Don't get discouraged!

This task will seem impossible at several points...Another tool you will need is a long skinny screwdriver to carefully push the connector back on after you've oriented it correctly without being able to get your fingers within 6" of the damn thing...Also don't drop the socket back behind the heat shield! The ductape helped hold the socket to the universal and the extension. GET A 3/8" drive socket not a 1/2"!
 

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Why are you guys still spending $140 on Ebay and up form the dealer for these parts. Get them from International. Same parts and cheaper.
 

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I am interested in seeing the photo's for location of the 2003 6.0l ICP replacement-I follwed the below thread, but couldn't find the photo's to go with the inf. Please help me, my husband is tearing apart Old Besty as you read this....

Original Thread titled: "Re: How to replace early ICP - with pictures"
 

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Just wanted to thank all of you who put this together.

I replaced the ICP (used International parts) and the connector and the truck seems to be running well!

I also replaced the belt yesterday and what a chore!

Wrapping the idler around the belt as you put it in is key.

2003 F250 SuperCrew, 6.0L 107.7kmi

I really haven't had many problems with my 2003 Powerstroke. (knocking on wood sound)

Thanks again!
 

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oil contamination of ICP sensor???

First thank each and every one of you for the posts.
Second let me describe the problem(s) with my ahem NEW 2003 6.0 w/160Kmiles, which we thought we were getting a good deal on as it was 4k under average sales prices in area.
It does have an oil leak on top passengers side. didn't know anything about 6.0l's notorious history with issues and "BULLETPROOFING". I traveled 1000 miles from wife and truck to visit my Dad and to get some Better Medical Opinions and assistance with my Disability and am now helping father through Super Storm Sandy Aftermath. My wife called and said that the truck was bucking and stalling. hard sluggish starting even after 10-20 mins idling. when i left i had filled the oil, was leaking a quart or so every 1000-1500 miles. She went to auto parts store and they checked her oil level after the stalling (approx 1500 miles after i left) and they told her it was low and added oil. 12, yes TWELVE, F-ing QUARTS. which I find hard to believe it didn't post a single error, or more likely SEIZE the engine. So my assumption is that they flooded the case with an extra 8-10 quarts or somehow conned her with AIR-OIL, though she swears she watched nim put two 5.5 quart jugs in after she put one quart at gas station. but I cant prove nuttin' as I am 1000+ miles away. She has driven almost another 1500 miles since and the dipstick shows less than 1/2 quart low...But still hard starting and still occasionally sluggish for first 5-10 miles. and yesterday after 3 attempts to start ENGINE light came on. had her stop at auto-zone ran the OBD II and pulled a single p2285 ICP error. made them clear the code (after them b!tching they are not suppose to) just to see if it may of been caused to the failed starting/multiple quick keying on/off/on/off. cause she still ain't use to using a diesel and wants to treat it like a GAS engine (jump in, key on, tear away at 100mph....she has a heavy foot and LOTS of road rage..LOL). she drove the 20 miles home without any other p2285or any other codes that would cause engine light to trigger.

SO...after my long narrative my questions are.....

1) can the oil leak/non-bulletproofing have effected the ICP?
2) can the mysterious missing 12 quarts/overfilling caused ICP damage?
3) can the ICP be causing the hard sluggish starts and stalling and NOT post any errors?
4) what else could be causing the issue(s)?
5) what other JOYS do I have to look forward to with the 6.0. (been building race engines, Nitrous, small engines, electrical. hydraulic for 30+ years...But this is the first DIESEL I'm now responsible to maintain and am disabled 47yr old 6'4 guy who can't walk/bend well (cause according to the posts you need to be short with ape-length arms and child-sized hands to work on this beast)?
6) can anyone figure out where the "F" 12 quarts of oil went?

and finally question #7....the most important question....
DOES ANYONE KNOW A GOOD CHEAP HIT-MAN THAT I CAN CONTRACT TO DEAL WITH THE SOB THAT SOLD ME THE TRUCK????
Sincerely
Patrick
 

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First thank each and every one of you for the posts.
Second let me describe the problem(s) with my ahem NEW 2003 6.0 w/160Kmiles, which we thought we were getting a good deal on as it was 4k under average sales prices in area.
It does have an oil leak on top passengers side. didn't know anything about 6.0l's notorious history with issues and "BULLETPROOFING". I traveled 1000 miles from wife and truck to visit my Dad and to get some Better Medical Opinions and assistance with my Disability and am now helping father through Super Storm Sandy Aftermath. My wife called and said that the truck was bucking and stalling. hard sluggish starting even after 10-20 mins idling. when i left i had filled the oil, was leaking a quart or so every 1000-1500 miles. She went to auto parts store and they checked her oil level after the stalling (approx 1500 miles after i left) and they told her it was low and added oil. 12, yes TWELVE, F-ing QUARTS. which I find hard to believe it didn't post a single error, or more likely SEIZE the engine. So my assumption is that they flooded the case with an extra 8-10 quarts or somehow conned her with AIR-OIL, though she swears she watched nim put two 5.5 quart jugs in after she put one quart at gas station. but I cant prove nuttin' as I am 1000+ miles away. She has driven almost another 1500 miles since and the dipstick shows less than 1/2 quart low...But still hard starting and still occasionally sluggish for first 5-10 miles. and yesterday after 3 attempts to start ENGINE light came on. had her stop at auto-zone ran the OBD II and pulled a single p2285 ICP error. made them clear the code (after them b!tching they are not suppose to) just to see if it may of been caused to the failed starting/multiple quick keying on/off/on/off. cause she still ain't use to using a diesel and wants to treat it like a GAS engine (jump in, key on, tear away at 100mph....she has a heavy foot and LOTS of road rage..LOL). she drove the 20 miles home without any other p2285or any other codes that would cause engine light to trigger.

SO...after my long narrative my questions are.....

1) can the oil leak/non-bulletproofing have effected the ICP?
2) can the mysterious missing 12 quarts/overfilling caused ICP damage?
3) can the ICP be causing the hard sluggish starts and stalling and NOT post any errors?
4) what else could be causing the issue(s)?
5) what other JOYS do I have to look forward to with the 6.0. (been building race engines, Nitrous, small engines, electrical. hydraulic for 30+ years...But this is the first DIESEL I'm now responsible to maintain and am disabled 47yr old 6'4 guy who can't walk/bend well (cause according to the posts you need to be short with ape-length arms and child-sized hands to work on this beast)?
6) can anyone figure out where the "F" 12 quarts of oil went?

and finally question #7....the most important question....
DOES ANYONE KNOW A GOOD CHEAP HIT-MAN THAT I CAN CONTRACT TO DEAL WITH THE SOB THAT SOLD ME THE TRUCK????
Sincerely
Patrick
Can only really address question #3. When I had my ICP issue, the truck was hard to start and running like crap before the code even came on. I was actually praying for a code to be thrown so I would have a clue what I needed to fix.

Regarding question #2, if the dipstick is showing that the oil level is correct in the truck, then how could the oil have been the problem if it was never overfilled? Either it was actually 12 quarts low, or the salesmen used empty oil containers in front of your wife. Then again, maybe he poured it into the transmission. I have heard of people doing that. Doing an oil change and blowing the engine because they poured the new motor oil into the transmission. How they can accomplish that, I have no idea.

The repair isn't too bad, but it sucks in that it could have been prevented by a little smarter engineering on Ford's part. They should have recalled the truck for this issue and put in the new valve cover with the revised ICP sensor in it.
 

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Howdy All;

Short time lurker, first time poster ...

Everything here sounds like what is going on with my Born on
07/25/2003 But it's considered a '04 F-250 ext. cab 4X4.
It's still a baby, only just over 101,000 miles. Last Summer I had to have the HPOP snugged up to stop a small oil leak. Now it's doing the I don't feel like leaving the parking slot today routine... :icon_rolleyes:.

The part numbers given ... are they still the same or have they been
"updated".
And Oh, By-the-way, what are the International part #'s ???

Being not at all familiar with diesels, the acronyms (jumbles of letters),
can be daunting when they are not mentioned in the Haynes manual I've
got. Reckon some things just have to remain (shhhh), Secret. :sneaky:.

Thanks for being here. I'm thinkin' my journey with the F-250 is just
beginning.

hank
 

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Hope you dont mind a contribution with a partial alternative method..

I am not shy about modifying tools so they work..

In my case I was able to remove the old ICP with a deep 1-1/16" socket

However to thread the new sensor into place, I decided to not sacrifice yet another tool to the person who shall be forever vilified for placing important sensors in impossible (almost) to service locations...

May the person who approved mounting the fuel filter horizontally, be showered in diesel in perpetuity...

I digress....

To thread the new sensor in,, I simply used some electrical tape and taped together a universal joint,and extension...

Got the sensor threaded in... unwound the electrical tape, pulled the uni and extension... used the deep 1-1/16 to tighten.... job done..
 

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I know this is an old post, but I am going through replacing mine now. NOT fun. Just got most of the stuff pulled from the top. I can't reach it from the bottom on my 4X4. I found one of the connectors on the FICM that wasn't clipped on, but I think it was fully inserted, and it won't clip on either. I broke another clip trying to get it off, I think they are just hard and brittle on my 03. Have to try and figure out if I can just plug them back in and if they will stay put or not??
 

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I'm resurrecting this thread from the dead because I need to replace my ICP sensor.....again! My truck has already had at least two replacements (one was under warranty), and I don't want to pay the dealer for this one.

I keep reading about cutting down sockets. Would a flex head ratcheting wrench work on an early 2003 ICP sensor? The rest seems pretty straight forward, but I want to make sure I have the right tools for the job.
 

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for the 2003 6.0l ICP replacement, there is a special socket you can get from a known tool maker. The exact description is:
Socket, Ford ICP Sensor, 1 1/16", 3/8" square drive
Lowe's has a socket 1 1/16" deep well socket that worked on my ICP sensor without any modification, and it was cheap. It is a Kobalt #338053. I tried to use a 1 1/16" crows foot, but had little luck after fiddling with it 30 minutes. It was a 1/2" drive very heavy piece that would not fit in the limited space.
 
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