How to replace shift tube in steering column
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Oh yes, grasshopper, there most certainly is one in a '96; I replaced mine this morning. I referred to some instructions I had printed years ago from this site, knowing my shifter was sloppy and it was a matter of time before it broke. It did, last night just before dark.
Try a search for post #943984 by roan65, dated 11/29/02, entitled "auto shift lever rebuild writeup"; it has all the info you'll need. I pulled the steering wheel, which he doesn't mention, and used a bungee cord to hang the steering column at a convenient level so I could sit in my seat and work. I also used clear synthetic grease, but that's minor. The "shift indicator wire" is also the adjuster for the PRNDL, and is mounted on the right side of the column; it's white plastic with a black knurled wheel on it to adjust the needle atop the letters in the PRNDL. It has a 7/32 screw; the column nuts are 13mm deepwell.
I replaced the 7212 tube and the 7R264 plunger this morning for $30 out the door at Brondes Ford, Maumee OH (yes, a dealership). I reused the plastic bushings, though I'd recommend replacing those too. Both the tube and plunger have been redesigned for the better, and the levers and pins and spring are reused. I reversed the lower lever so the gear selector would be bearing on new, unworn metal (you'll get it when you see it.) The whole affair only took a few hours, and you'll love the "new truck" feel when you pull it out of park.
Josh
Try a search for post #943984 by roan65, dated 11/29/02, entitled "auto shift lever rebuild writeup"; it has all the info you'll need. I pulled the steering wheel, which he doesn't mention, and used a bungee cord to hang the steering column at a convenient level so I could sit in my seat and work. I also used clear synthetic grease, but that's minor. The "shift indicator wire" is also the adjuster for the PRNDL, and is mounted on the right side of the column; it's white plastic with a black knurled wheel on it to adjust the needle atop the letters in the PRNDL. It has a 7/32 screw; the column nuts are 13mm deepwell.
I replaced the 7212 tube and the 7R264 plunger this morning for $30 out the door at Brondes Ford, Maumee OH (yes, a dealership). I reused the plastic bushings, though I'd recommend replacing those too. Both the tube and plunger have been redesigned for the better, and the levers and pins and spring are reused. I reversed the lower lever so the gear selector would be bearing on new, unworn metal (you'll get it when you see it.) The whole affair only took a few hours, and you'll love the "new truck" feel when you pull it out of park.
Josh
Anyone stil have the auto shift lever rebuild writeup??
I have a '96 F250 2WD where the auto column shifter is really sloppy. It's not the torx bolts under the dash, but very confident it's the bushings in the shifter tube or shaft.
There is a write up from roan65 referenced in the previous replies that tells how to r and r the bushings and rebuild the assembly, but this site apparently didn't save the archives that far back.
Would anyone still have the proceedure or link????
Thanks for any help you can give.
I have a '96 F250 2WD where the auto column shifter is really sloppy. It's not the torx bolts under the dash, but very confident it's the bushings in the shifter tube or shaft.
There is a write up from roan65 referenced in the previous replies that tells how to r and r the bushings and rebuild the assembly, but this site apparently didn't save the archives that far back.
Would anyone still have the proceedure or link????
Thanks for any help you can give.
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I just did mine a couple weeks ago...
It was so sloppy that I could not get it in 1st gear and was difficult to get into D or R.
Replaced the tube, plunger shaft (now a casting), plastic bushings and shifter lever.
The tube is a metal casting and the pin holes (on both ends) elongate and wear.
The plastic bushings also will wear and give you extra play.
So combining the play between the pins and holes and the plastic bushings and you have a LOT of play.
It will take about 2-3 hours. Just be carefull not to drop the steering column quickly as one of the cables might break something... (re: bungee cord). It cost me about $100 for everything.
Now it is just like new.
It was so sloppy that I could not get it in 1st gear and was difficult to get into D or R.
Replaced the tube, plunger shaft (now a casting), plastic bushings and shifter lever.
The tube is a metal casting and the pin holes (on both ends) elongate and wear.
The plastic bushings also will wear and give you extra play.
So combining the play between the pins and holes and the plastic bushings and you have a LOT of play.
It will take about 2-3 hours. Just be carefull not to drop the steering column quickly as one of the cables might break something... (re: bungee cord). It cost me about $100 for everything.
Now it is just like new.
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