2006 Ford F350 6.0L, 280,054 miles (brand new batteries/oil filter/fuel filters just installed)
New Repairs/Services – new radiator (100 miles), new batteries (0 miles), new oil and fuel filters (0 miles).
Known Issue – oil leak coming from the front of the engine, possibly engine’s low pressure oil sensor.
Ran it out of fuel on steep hill, got ¼ tank of diesel into it but after many attempts to start it on a 10% (pretty darn steep hill) by cycling fuel pump 4-5 times before cranking, it only started a couple times and within 15 seconds it would sputter and die. Batteries were very weak so got new batteries, new oil and fuel filters but still could not keep it started so towed to independent shop.
Technician said “cranked vehicle while monitoring scan tool data, actual high pressure oil was much lower than desired. After cranking for 15 seconds the actual high pressure oil started to climb, once it hit 500 psi it started and idled, but when the throttle was depressed the oil pressure went up and then started to drop at higher rpms until it died. Removed the injector control pressure (ICP) sensor and applied shop air into oil manifold. The expected outcome was to hear oil coming from the crankcase but there was no air heard at all. Back-probed the IPR at the PCM and applied ground. There was supposed to be a change in where the air was leaking from but there was no change; when the tool was disconnected from the oil manifold there was air still in the system. This indicates that there is a blockage in the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) and/or the IPR. At this time it is recommended to replace theses parts for a total of $1,898 labor plus $2,361 parts:
Questions:
New Repairs/Services – new radiator (100 miles), new batteries (0 miles), new oil and fuel filters (0 miles).
Known Issue – oil leak coming from the front of the engine, possibly engine’s low pressure oil sensor.
Ran it out of fuel on steep hill, got ¼ tank of diesel into it but after many attempts to start it on a 10% (pretty darn steep hill) by cycling fuel pump 4-5 times before cranking, it only started a couple times and within 15 seconds it would sputter and die. Batteries were very weak so got new batteries, new oil and fuel filters but still could not keep it started so towed to independent shop.
Technician said “cranked vehicle while monitoring scan tool data, actual high pressure oil was much lower than desired. After cranking for 15 seconds the actual high pressure oil started to climb, once it hit 500 psi it started and idled, but when the throttle was depressed the oil pressure went up and then started to drop at higher rpms until it died. Removed the injector control pressure (ICP) sensor and applied shop air into oil manifold. The expected outcome was to hear oil coming from the crankcase but there was no air heard at all. Back-probed the IPR at the PCM and applied ground. There was supposed to be a change in where the air was leaking from but there was no change; when the tool was disconnected from the oil manifold there was air still in the system. This indicates that there is a blockage in the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) and/or the IPR. At this time it is recommended to replace theses parts for a total of $1,898 labor plus $2,361 parts:
- HPOP (Motorcraft HPP-12-RM); $1,436 part
- IPR fuel pressure regulator (Motorcraft WP-216992); $422 part
- ICP injector control pressure sensor (Motorcraft WP-945272); $299 part
- low pressure oil sensor (Motorcraft SW-5267); $67 part
- Intake Manifold Gasket (Motorcraft WP-648134-MAH); $119 part
- Turbo Mount Kit (Motorcraft 904-234)’ $18 part
Questions:
- Is $1,898 a reasonable labor charge for replacing Parts 1-6, above?
- HPOP is $1,436 for a new part, reman is $747 from Ford dealer but this shop would mark it up to about $1,070, would you spend the extra $366 for the new HPOP?
- Technician said there is a blockage in the HPOP and/or the IPR . . . should we try replacing Parts 2-6 and retesting before installing new or rebuilt HPOP? Or, is HPOP due for replacement anyhow at 280,000 miles?
- With only 100 miles on Ford coolant, would you save coolant or replace all coolant?
- Other items you suggest to get inspected/repaired/replaced while already in there?
- How would you proceed? Anything else?
