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Hey Folks:

Somewhere I saw a procedure/instructions on replacing the HPOP O-Rings, along with pictures. Does anyone have a link or know where to find it? Thanks
 

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Thanks, just what I needed. Appreciate the help very much.

Mike
 

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They can be a pain in the butt! Make sure you get the Viton stock Orings otherwise they will leak again. I found it alot easier to remove the other end (on the head) of the line inorder to rethread the oil line back onto the fitting. To get to the inside one (front of the motor I think you will have to take the other one out to get to it. If that makes any sense.
 

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Appreciate the plug for my site (that I haven't updated in AGES)

If anyone else has detailed instructions and pics to for any fixes they have done contact me here via PM or directly from the site.

One day if I get time I'll jazz it up a bit, kind of crude now, but it does the trick.

ps. if you visit the site feel free to click a google ad or three, helps me offset the cost of keeping it up..

cheers
 

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Just finished rebuilding my hpop and changed the non serviceable plug, purged the oil rails and truck still wouldnt start. Come to find out we put the ipr sensor on backwards and when we pulled it back off and realized it was on wrong the truck fired right up.
 

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Just finished rebuilding my hpop and changed the non serviceable plug, purged the oil rails and truck still wouldnt start. Come to find out we put the ipr sensor on backwards and when we pulled it back off and realized it was on wrong the truck fired right up.
which one is the irp senser??
 

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one of my friends got a qoute from ford for the lines and it was almost 300$ he was thinkin bout gettin hydrolic lines made up. would it work?
 

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Just an fyi on HPOP 0-rings. Called local stealer, $43 + tax for the Ford o-ring kit. Found Extended O-ring Kit from DieselOrings.com for $28. They also had good instructions that I downloaded.

I ordered their kit and bought the line removal tool just because I am too lazy to find a bicycle wrench to modify. I had ship priority mail. Ordered on Friday morning. Was in PO Box on way home from work on Monday.

Very explicit info labels on each packet group. Took me longer to locate where the oil leak was last week than it did to rebuild the snap-fit bulkhead fittings and re-install. Everything looks good. Thought I'd pass it on.:thumbsup:
 

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Had my orings fail last saturday pulling the trailer. Lost almost 2 gallons of oil in just a few minutes. Dealer wanted $650 to fix. I told him to try again. Came back with $387. I just can't see paying that. Will have to give it a try myself.
 

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F-250 7.3 stick in mint condition Yr 2000. Small leak from some where I know where not. Looks like rear main bearing. I am told may not be. Any suggestions where this small leak might be?
 

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Get up into engine compartment and shove rags down into engine valley to soak up all oil.
Start looking for leaks. There is a drain hole in back of block that lets oil drain drain out of valley but it drains into that bell housing making the leak to appear to be coming from rear main seal.
 

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Sure wish I knew that a few years back when I was pooping my pants thinking the rear seal was gone!!! LOL.....Now I know better & sleep so much better! I wonder if klutz1 ever found/fixed the leak? Bet it was the HPOP. DDT
 

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F-250 7.3 stick in mint condition Yr 2000. Small leak from some where I know where not. Looks like rear main bearing. I am told may not be. Any suggestions where this small leak might be?
I have a 2003 and had/have several leaks I've chased down, did a lot of research and found a lot of "rear main" suggestions but like the others have said, it's probably not your rear main - lots of things on/around the turbo can leak down and end up looking like the rear main, also the oil galley plugs (sometimes called "rail plugs") can leak and appear the same, and there's a weep hole for oil that collects in the valley - basically any leak up top will run back and down and appear to be the rear main but it's almost never the rear main - primary leaks to check for first are:

1- if you have oil in your valley then check the HPOP and lines to/from it

2- if you don't have oil in the valley look at the galley plugs (rear of the engine) or turbo/pedestal/EBPV

Let us know what it ends up being - my worst leak was an o-ring on the HPOP line, it dumped oil into the valley which eventually ran out the weep hole and leaked down to the bell housing which looked like a rear main.

Hope that helps.
 

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I seen some where that someone was using a Cat Tool to disconnect the oil lines and cost about $10? Don't remember where I saw it?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
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