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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
@532Woodchuck , I have a dead mouse right now in the blower cage area. I still have to go in and extract him. The best prevention for Rodents is lots of traps or poison. Not recommending poison. They will die someplace inaccessible.
The previous owner parked the truck near the edge of the woods for 6 months after changing jobs and no longer needed a1 ton truck and was trying to sell it on Facebook. When I contacted him about the truck he said he couldn’t sell it because it wouldn’t do anything due to the rats had chewed the computer off the truck lol!! I took on the challenge of fixing it. I’da good truck but has a free issues I haven’t worked out yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You want to find a schematic.
You want to pull the gauge panel and look in there. Might be rodent damage. Might find that old hippy’s traveling stash knocked something loose.
Got new ipr today, didn’t change a thing, I also noticed that the pressure don’t fall slowly it does it all at once then the ipr value increases over a few seconds
 

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That needle gets awful twitchy when holding at 2300. Twitchy needles are generally an indication of aeration. Aeration will cause an uneven idle BUT aeration might not be present at idle. To test for this, you get get your oil hot, bring up to 3400RPM while standing still for 5 minutes. Watch your gauge. You should be at around 1200 RPM. Needle should be steady not twitchy. It should also not rise or fall in pressure.
Now, When you are at 2300 range when it’s twitchy and you let off, it spikes up over 3k a second before coming to around 500.
This can be a sign that the HPOP gear is slipping on the shaft when resistance is high. When engine RPMS are climbing, the rotational force is in one direction and is facing resistance. When you let off the rotational force unwinds/lets off. If that gear is starting to slip against resistance in one direction but the resistance decreases as you let off it can grab. Once it grabs, there is going to be a spike in pressure. Then the cycle begins again.
I am not positive that is what you have going on but if another shop called me in on a problem comeback or somebody dropped that truck off here after saying to me, Hey, I had this thing apart and it’s not right”, I would check to make sure whoever did the work, had the gear properly seated on the shaft by rotating the crank to watch for any wobble at all with the gear and he the torqued the washer and bolt to 95 ft. pounds.
Then, with regards to your tach not working, Ide pull the gauge cluster and look for the brick of weed that the old hippie left in there, that knocked something loose. Ide be bummed out if I found that it was just the result of a mouse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
That needle gets awful twitchy when holding at 2300. Twitchy needles are generally an indication of aeration. Aeration will cause an uneven idle BUT aeration might not be present at idle. To test for this, you get get your oil hot, bring up to 3400RPM while standing still for 5 minutes. Watch your gauge. You should be at around 1200 RPM. Needle should be steady not twitchy. It should also not rise or fall in pressure.
Now, When you are at 2300 range when it’s twitchy and you let off, it spikes up over 3k a second before coming to around 500.
This can be a sign that the HPOP gear is slipping on the shaft when resistance is high. When engine RPMS are climbing, the rotational force is in one direction and is facing resistance. When you let off the rotational force unwinds/lets off. If that gear is starting to slip against resistance in one direction but the resistance decreases as you let off it can grab. Once it grabs, there is going to be a spike in pressure. Then the cycle begins again.
I am not positive that is what you have going on but if another shop called me in on a problem comeback or somebody dropped that truck off here after saying to me, Hey, I had this thing apart and it’s not right”, I would check to make sure whoever did the work, had the gear properly seated on the shaft by rotating the crank to watch for any wobble at all with the gear and he the torqued the washer and bolt to 95 ft. pounds.
Then, with regards to your tach not working, Ide pull the gauge cluster and look for the brick of weed that the old hippie left in there, that knocked something loose. Ide be bummed out if I found that it was just the result of a mouse.
Ok, I’ll have to wait until this weekend to check the bolt as it’s always in use during the day at work, I could check the air in oil after work this afternoon. I sure appreciate your time helping me try to figure this out
 

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Could a bad icp be the problem. You said it was not Motorcraft parts (O'Reilly) . These trucks don't like cheap sensors.
 
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