[kro]

I know this installation is few and far between but I thought maybe someone has been in this spot before. Just installed Hypermax turbo in '86 E350. If I run my hand up the turbo exhaust downpipe from underneath the truck while the doghouse is in place, near the top of the pipe just before it bends to get to the turbo it touches the doghouse insulation for about 4 inches. I don't think this is a good idea. We will haul a 5er for long days in the heat. Will this start a fire? Anyone got any ideas on how to modify the doghouse or downpipe. I'd be happy to get some ideas.

 

[BlizzardVan]

My hypermax downpipe didn't work real well with my turbo install. The first fix was a to dent the down pipe to get it closer to the valve cover and head(my fix). Second was to have *** build a 4" downpipe. Good luck with the install. Expect a huge drop in egt's, with stock injectors and a 100 hp chip you can leave your foot burried and never see 1350 on the pyro.

 

[kro]

Blizard:
How did the dint business work and how did you do it? I see ATS van downpipes used a squashed pipe for this tight area. My first choice would be to pull back the doghouse a couple of inches into the cab. My reasoning here is that I it would also give me more space for other areas of this install that now might need more air. Anyone modified a doghouse this way?

 

[BlizzardVan]

Heat and a hammer. It doesn't take much of each. Just mark where you need to make space and tap with a hammer. Only heat the center of the intended dent, heat will quickly spread through the thin pipe. This is what I had to do on an 01 to get the pipe away from the floor. I wonder if a newer doghouse from a junkyard would fit on your Van? Would this give you more room? I would get that down pipe off of the Dog house, it may cause a meltdown.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

I don't have any personal experience with the issue, however it has been posted before that the van body can be slid back on the frame to get a little more clearance for the downpipe. Apparently the body tends to work forward during braking over the years.

All the body bolts need to be loosened then the body can be moved back ( I suppose it would take a few buddies to move it).

 

[kro]

I have found that the pipe touches the insulation in along a length of about 6". The insulation compresses a little too. So, I've made up a shield out of gauge metal that bolts to the downpipe bolt on the turbo mount casting. The shield compresses the insultation and holds it away from the pipe and creates a 1/2 space between the pipe and the shield. I just put in on last night and the doghouse fits. Today I'll run it and see.
Shifting the cab sounds interesting. A flat pipe from Hypermax would have been the right thing. This kit was made from 1990 on and you would think this issue would have been solved by now. Buyer beware.

 

[kro]

The shield seems to work so far. Only gone about 40miles but pushed it hard on hills. With 3" exhaust the boost was only 5psi and eg temps toped at 900f. Big difference in power, burns cleaner. It has not pulled the trailer yet so things can change.

 

[Robert Duncan]

I have had a HyperMax system in an '88 E250 7.3l for about 7 years now, ~60k miles. I pulled a 7,500lb TT for about half those miles. I run between 1100-1150 degrees EGT. I saw the touching when first installed and bought a thermal blanket (Thermotec) which I wrapped around the turbo and the up pipes then wired in place by "sewing" stainless steel wire through the blanket. The blanket is rated to 2,000 degrees. I have had no problem with this setup. I think it also holds some of the heat energy in the turbo and supply pipes.

Summit Racing Thermotec link

 

[kro]

Robert:
I thought of some kind of blanket but was worried it would overheat the pipe and or turbo. Glad to hear things are fine with your cure. I'm going to test my sheild cure this fall and hope it will work too. After the long, hard run pulling I'll yank the doghouse and check. Thanks for the blanket idea, may still go there. Still no reply,or ideas, or solutions from Hypermax.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Wrapping pipes for turbo apps is a very popular racing mod. The more heat you keep in the pipe, the more volume of flow you keep (as the exhgaust cools, it becomes denser, therefore less volume).

You won't overheat anything by wrapping the pipes.

 

[motoit]

I'm looking to add the same turbo to my 86' e-350 box van and was wondering how your fix was working out?

Did you also use the hypermax 3 1/2" exhaust kit on your van?

 

[kro]

Some conclusions. I pulled the 5th wheel (7,000#) on a 380miles trip this weekend with the shields in place. The pyro showed 1150 to 1200 and boost 7psi on some good hills with a headwind. I'm happy with the new performance and will put up with the poor design of the pipes/doghouse thing. Today I pulled the doghouse to check for heat dammage and some charing occures where the exhaustpipe comes up near the floor/doghouse on the drivers side. Also, some insulation a little brownish above the turbo. Modified the shields and compressed the insulation on the inside of the doghouse with flat sheet metal to increase clearance. I took Roberts suggestion and wraped both up and down exhaust pipes with tape, one 15' roll did both pipes. Off in Sept for a longer pull and will yank the doghouse after. I think I'll order the Thermo-Tec blanket for the turbo. Robert, if you read this, do you remember which item it was from Thermo-Tec. I went to the web site and see turbo kits but I think you used something else?

 

[DarthSurplus]

Click on the pictures link in my sig to see my modified downpipe in my 2004. It is a truck system that we modified to go on a van. We cut a section of the bend out, and welded an oval to a circle, to draw the vertical portion forward and away from the engine cover and the opening in the floor pan.