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Thanks guys for the detailed information, especially to you Jack.

After reading what you said, I do have a problem with the left front hub. I have to use two large washers to space the caliper bracket properly, otherwise the bracket will hit the rotor. I have no idea why it's like that. But the washers I use space it perfectly, according to my eyeballs.

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Sounds like you have a mixture of early 99 and late 99 hub and rotor.
in late march of 99 Ford added abs to the front. That required a thicker hub flange, and for that reason the rotor hat face became Thinner. It sounds like you have a late 99 rotor on an early 99 wheel bearing hub. the washers are making up the thickness of the late 99 flange.
 

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......in late march of 99 Ford added abs to the front. That required a thicker hub flange .......
No, no, no. The flange was made stiffer to reduce distortion under all braking conditions, it had nothing to do with ABS.

Steve,

And Machiner1 is right, you have a mis-match of a hub and rotor.
 

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The reason for phenolic pistons is because the fluid temp in the caliper gets too hot when using steel pistons.
Yep, that was the design intent. In fact if you look at the '99-'04 rear calipers you will notice cooling fins.

That being said, the engineering mandate was very strict on fluid temps due to problems with the earlier years with disc/drum vehicles and front caliper fluid boil.

It's hard to make a judgement on what is safe, and it will really depends on driving conditions such a very heavy towing, or moderate towing in the mountains with poor trailer brakes.

But considering what has been reported with phenolic caliper pistons locking up, I can understand people wanting to use steel pistons. I would caution if this is your direction and you do operate where high brake temps may be encountered, then I would be using DOT 4 brake fluid and make sure I changed it every two years. OE brake systems are designed around DOT 3 that has a moderate moisture level (a few years old).
 

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No, no, no. The flange was made stiffer to reduce distortion under all braking conditions, it had nothing to do with ABS.
They did add front abs in march of 99. I just always thought that was the reason for the hub re-design. More rigidity makes sense too. That makes me want to swap over the right side too. I have 1.5" wheel spacers, so I need all the rigidity I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
What do you guys think about cutting the dust shields off the inside of the rotors? For street cars and track cars, there the first thing we do. They do nothing but block airflow and hold in heat.
 

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This is not a heat issue. You need to re-read what I posted.

The P131 brakes run cooler then many other vehicles.

Ford took the dust shields off the Crown Vic ...... For a short time. If you want to deal with more water and dirt intrusion onto the brake's rubbing surfaces and onto sliding surfaces, be my guest.
 

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I guess I've just been lucky on brakes. My brake problems have been limited to right rear hanging up and shucking the inner pad out (my fault for not checking earlier.) Replaced rears ~3 yrs ago with Motorcraft loaded calipers and Ford rotors (made in China
). On the front, I replaced the D50 front axle with an 04 D60 which got rid of the early hubs and rotors. That was about 5 yrs ago. I just slipped the calipers back on after checking that the slide pins were OK. Used the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" philosophy there.

Just last weekend at 160K miles, I pulled the hubs to grease the spindle bearings, regreased the slide pins (early cailpers with the boot that goes into an internal bore in the bracket), inspected pads (still minimum 1/8" thickness), checked rotor thickness (barely worn at about 37.5 mm thick), cleaned everything up and put it back together. The plan is to replace front calipers and hoses next year. BTW, they had steel pistons in them and are the originals installed on the truck in 1/99.

I've had pulsation on an 01 Buick that I tried to get rid of by turning the rotors, but as Jack pointed out, once they get a hard spot, it just comes back, and it did on that car after a short time. It's someone else's problem now.
 

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There are a lot of trucks out there that never had issues.

All totaled, I'm over 200k on my personal Superdutys without issues. My slides only have had one instance of getting sticky during the 12 years.

BTW, many of us thought those original brackets with the internal lips were the best. In fact I have a spare set sitting in my garage just in case.

See ya all in a few days. I'm off playing caretaker for my mom.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well, I've got a working truck again. I replaced the left side caliper. This weekend I'll change out the other 3 calipers, brackets, and slide pins along with new Carbortech front pads. I really am surprised at how great Advanced is with warranty work.
 

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you should probably swap to the late 99 rotor on the left side as well so you can get rid of the washers. They certainly aren't helping with the stiffness / rigidity of the caliper
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I think you're right. I'll make sure to do that. Thank you.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I finally got the time to replace all the brakes. The late 99 left front rotor did the trick....fits perfectly without washers.

So my brake pads are actually fine, still have about 50% pad left, so I just reused the pads. I've got all new rotors, calipers and brackets, all for free. I just had to pay for 2 bottles of brake fluid.

From this...


To this...



I love the feel of new brakes. Turns out non of my caliper slide pins were frozen. So the pulling must have been the left rear caliper not working well. Once the left front really got stuck, that's when I realized I had some problems. I'm really glad I was able to replace all 4 calipers and brackets, so hopefully I won't have this problem for a few years. We'll see!
Thanks guys,
Steve
 

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You know I have to ask this .......

Did you check the installed runout with a dial indicator?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You know I have to ask this .......

Did you check the installed runout with a dial indicator?
Ha nope! I knew it was coming. I didn't do it because I don't have a dial indicator and I honestly don't even know how. I think this is something that I'm going to do next time when I have more time.
 

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Dial indicator with a magnetic base is very reasonable at Harbor Freight. I have had mine for over 20 yrs now. I use it to "degree" cams too.



Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Yep, I was waitin'.

After preaching about doing this for years I guess I should spend some time and write up a pictorial for how to index rotors.
 

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With all that trouble with the left caliper, I would surely change the left hose to it, they can deteriorate inside and not let the brake fluid return, acts like a check valve.
 

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HYDROBOOST?

Hi all! I wanted to check and see if this truck has a Hydroboost. It is common in the brake world, that if the pressure is too low, the brakes will overheat. You may also have a booster/master holding pressure in. ALL of the caliper problems you mentioned are related to excessive heat. IF it does not have HYDROBOOST, we can convert it to Hydroboost. Check on that. I also modify the proportioning valve to raise the pressure to the rear brakes.
 

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Second post of really bad info .....

Too low of pressure huh? That's a new one.

How are you modifying the prop valve on these vehicles????!!! For over a decade they have used dynamic proportioning within the ABS software. Hopefully your business has good liability insurance if you are installing a mechanical prop in series with the ABS enabled system.
 
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