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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The truck has had a stutter in it for a while now, mainly while towing, but it has gotten worse. I have noticed an exhaust smell getting stronger lately but there is no smoke of any kind at any time. I have replaced the FICM twice before but that was when the dealer said that was the issue. I have done the test on it and I have 48v not running and a steady 47.8v while running. I know this doesn't necessarily mean the FICM is OK and I think it is bad, but with the price of these things I thought I would ask and try to make sure before I just go buy one. I have not had a chance to buy a scanner yet so don't know if there are any codes. I replaced the alternator about 6 months ago and batteries are a few years old.I am hard on the batteries and do drain them occasionally as I work out of the truck a lot. Does this sound like the FICM is bad and if so would the repair for these things be a good option or should I just break down and buy a new one?
 

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What we also need is the cold start voltage off the FICM. Anything below 43.5 volts for more than a few seconds would indicate one going south so to speak. This electrical system depends on batts that are at or near a full state of charge. You may need to charge and load test them at least three times a year. Are you running an inverter? Post the cold start voltage when you can. Also run by one of the auto stores and see if you have any codes. Repair if bad is a great option! b
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I rented the code scout 2500b reader from O'Reilly's and it says no codes and 2 of 3 readiness monitors ready. I have been watching videos on you tube and now I am wondering if the FICM is my issue or the ICP is. Any direction would sure be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have tested the FICM and I get 48v key on, 47.4v cranking and 47.4v running. It lopes along like it is getting fuel then no fuel, fuel no fuel, but doesn't normally die. If it does die then it will usually restart right away.
 

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FICM voltages look ok. Does the truck try to surge forward at all with the brake on like when stopped at a light? Also the exhaust smell you mentioned, see if you can grab a telescoping mirror and check the firewall area for sooting. Check for a cracked y-pipe.
 

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I have recently had this problem. I would strongly recommend that you look at the ICP sensor, because the FICM relies on what the ICP tells it. I have an 03, and for that year the ICP was known to go bad and screw with the FICM. I just got the problem fixed today and my truck has been running MUCH better. Have yet to cold start it, but I think this probably fixed the issue.

ICP sensor and install was 250. Mechanic said you have to sometimes get a new wire harness with the new ICP sensor (my sensor was leaking).

Good Luck!
 

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???

FICM voltages look ok. Does the truck try to surge forward at all with the brake on like when stopped at a light? Also the exhaust smell you mentioned, see if you can grab a telescoping mirror and check the firewall area for sooting. Check for a cracked y-pipe.

Just curious about your inquire about the truck surge at a stop and brake on... Mine just started this. What could cause this? I had a bad FICM 48V before cranking, 24V while running. cold starts= fire up and die, kill the batteries trying to get running unless truck was plugged in for a couple hours. Temps about 35 here at night. Thanks for any info!
 

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Truck surge at idle with the brake on would indicate a failing icp sensor and harness. The surge is quite noticeable! 24 volts cranking on the FICM with good batts. would indicate a bad FICM. Sheetrockman, I would check the fuel filters. how many miles on them and are they oem/racor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Filters are clean and I dont remember if they were OEM or not. My truck dies not move with this issue I am having in the engine. It is a die, run, die, run and will do it at 70 mph or just sitting at the stop light.
 

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Joining the ranks of FICM issues

Mine was only evident on starting. Cranking longer and longer on some starts and then just like normal on others. I had my truck in for Oil and Fuel filter change and they discovered that I have a FICM showing failure. So now Its sitting for a week since my Air Handler at the house decided to go out the same day. I will be glad when this week is done. I have to fix the AC at home first, then I will get the FICM and hopefully EGR delete done at the same time.
Jeff
 

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FICM modules ususally put out a P0611 which is a FICM module code. We call that the FICM code of death. You can try reprogramming them but it usually will only be a temporary fix. Usually bad modules are noticeable from multiple injector codes. The only way to really diagnose a 6.0L misfire is with Fords IDS tool. Our shop bought one to help with injector issues. If you end up getting a FICM module the book time (that includes programming) is 2 hours and the module runs around $750.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Here is a video I took of what this issue sounded like. I had the dealer locate and repair. I do not know exactly which wire but it was a stud that held the wire clip located on the intake manifold.
 
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