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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello folks, bout ready to bite the bullet and get a either a reman or new IDM. --------2001 4x4 Automatic F250 7.3 IDI w/ over 400K Miles---------



I am getting high to low side open codes (P1271 through P1278) as well as the bank codes (P1293,P1294)


I performed a continuous memory test and got P1316



I have rebuilt all injectors


I have installed new glow plugs / GPR


I have installed new IPR



I have installed new ICP as well as cleaned the connected tube


I have rebuilt my Turbo /w new Compressor wheel as well as installed TurboMaster Wastegate Controller


Oil was changed 4 months ago (I use Rotella T)



Reasons are as follows:


Truck will start fine BUT on first start of the day it will chug untill I press on the fuel pedal to level her out


I ohmd the IDM cable and all injector solenoids were in spec at 3.4 to 3.5


I ohmd the valve cover connectors to check the glow plugs and they were in spec


INTERESTING NOTES:::


- I obviously have SES light on because of injector codes, it stays on when I'm idling and driving. HOWEVER when I'm driving, say on the highway doing 60, and I let my foot all the way off the fuel pedal, the SES light will go out untill I drop back into 2nd or first gear ( about 30mph on my tach) Then the SES comes back.


-Once the truck is started it sounds fine. It does seem to be lacking power. When I punch the fuel pedal I will blow black smoke out the exhaust(could be normal for an older truck with over 400k miles) But once I am "up to speed" the smoke thins out considerably (can barely see any, but it's still there)


-Anytime I brake or go from park to drive, drive to reverese, there is a very noticable drop in rpm/power (i'm chalking this up to age but...)


-When I took my IDM out one of the corner bolts was all rusted up. The board inside actually had some rust on it. But it didn't appear to spread to any of the resistors, capacitors, or other doo hickies inside.
There was a considerable amount of white powder coating everything, I've included some pics



-No I do not have access to all yer fancy testing tools. I got a multimeter. I didn't bother checking fuel pressure since I'm obviously getting enough with the black smoke(or maybe I don't understand smoke signals???)


ANY AND ALL INSIGHT/INSULTS ARE WELCOME!!!
 

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"I have installed new ICP as well as cleaned the connected tube"
There's no connecting tube on the ICP, but there is on the EBP sensor. Is that what you meant?


If it runs, the IDM is probably OK, but the corrosion residue may cause enough voltage leakage to make it throw those codes you're getting. What I would do is carefully clean the residue out of the inside (maybe with some contact cleaner) and see what happens then.


Are you getting any codes other than the ones you posted?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeh that's what I meant. Too many damn acronyms for me.

I get a code for the EBPV but that's because of the delete.

I cleaned off most of the residue but it sounded the same on startup.

I'll clear the codes tomorrow and test again but I don't think anything changed.
 

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Yup. They don't like moisture getting inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Same symptoms, chugging at start


Cleared codes, they come back


Another thing that might tell a person with greater experience than me... Sometimes not all the injectors will have a code, sometimes only 1 bank will throw a code, and again sometimes they all throw a code


If it ain't the nasty lookin IDM, would new valve cover gaskets be it? But by ohming from the IDM pigtail, doesn't that verify wiring to injectors are good? They did measure at 3.4-3.5 which is high but in range.



Does the SES light disappearing after letting off the fuel pedal say anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jesus lord help me!

I know what the damn problem is!

Problem is I'm dumbest som***** walkin the planet.

Once I've verified everything is working I'll report back to yall.

Prepare to let the insults fly
 

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We're waiting with baited breath. :smile2:

I'm not going to insult you. I don't think there's anyone on here that hasn't made a bonehead mistake.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the problem was I i had my spacers mixed up.

- The center armature/poppet screw had 1x .002 spacer and 1x .003 spacer

- The solenoid screws had 2x .002 spacers

So the solenoids were making contact with that center armature


My thought process for checking this was: Since I am getting random codes for my injectors/banks, sometimes all of em sometimes half of em, that was telling me it wasn't something or some part had failed, but rather there must me something shorting out(metal on metal that shouldn't be touching)

I also took into consideration the higher ohm reading I got from the IDM pigtail. Now I'm no expert when it comes to electric flow, but my thought was "Maybe because the solenoids could be touching the armature plate, its getting more ground than it should, causing higher ohm readings?" Well I checked what the ohm was after putting everything back to together and they all checked at 2.9 down from 3.4-3.5

Maybe my reasonings are incorrect, but it did lead me to check my solenoids, which in turn, lead me to fix my spacer problem.

I'm hoping we can all take something from this lesson, I know I did
 

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How does it run now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Cool!

Thanks for the followup.
 

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Good catch. I was going to suggest your issue is voltage leakdown. The injectors fire by opening and closing via the solenoid (which you probably already knew), and if there is not enough current due to high resistance, they may not be fully firing, not injecting enough or too much fuel, causing your smoke issues and SES light. Reason it goes out when coasting is because the engine defuels when engine braking, so no current is applied to the injectors.

You obviously found the culprit that was to be my suggestion.
 
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