IDI gods injector pump test
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No serviceable filter in the IP. I'm presuming you have some injector lines cracked loose at the injectors and no fuel at all there.
With key on engine off remove the pink wire from the top of the IP and touch it back to it's terminal. You should hear an audible click. If not, check for battery power at that wire. If you have power, the ESO (electric shut off) solenoid is not functioning.
If you do hear a click, remove the return line from the top of the IP. You should have fuel there while cranking. If this is a 7.3 and no return fuel, you have a fuel supply problem. If it is a 6.9, remove the black return fitting from the top of the IP and examine the little check ball inside for debris. If it looks like coffee grounds, you need an IP rebuild. You can clean the debris and it may get you running temporarily but may quit again any time without warning.
For either engine if you have good fuel flow coming out of the injector pump and no smoke at the tailpipe, you probably have an IP problem.
With key on engine off remove the pink wire from the top of the IP and touch it back to it's terminal. You should hear an audible click. If not, check for battery power at that wire. If you have power, the ESO (electric shut off) solenoid is not functioning.
If you do hear a click, remove the return line from the top of the IP. You should have fuel there while cranking. If this is a 7.3 and no return fuel, you have a fuel supply problem. If it is a 6.9, remove the black return fitting from the top of the IP and examine the little check ball inside for debris. If it looks like coffee grounds, you need an IP rebuild. You can clean the debris and it may get you running temporarily but may quit again any time without warning.
For either engine if you have good fuel flow coming out of the injector pump and no smoke at the tailpipe, you probably have an IP problem.
yes i cracked the line at the fuel rail no fuel while cranking. cracked a couple of the lines going to the rail no fuel, but fuel comming out of the fuel filter out side
took wire off to the right yes it clicks, but there is a wire to the left is it supposed to have power of something, gotta big race comming friday need the truck to pull car any help will be appreciated,
by the way thank you for the help evel486
took wire off to the right yes it clicks, but there is a wire to the left is it supposed to have power of something, gotta big race comming friday need the truck to pull car any help will be appreciated,
by the way thank you for the help evel486
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168 Posts
Your shutdown is the terminal toward the front of the engine. Should have a double wire connected to it.
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707 Posts
The 6 and 12 o'clock leads may be reversed. Look closely at the connectors. The 6 o'clock should have two wires, the 12 o'clock should have only one. 12 o'clock gets its power directly from the ignition key. 6 and 9 o'clock are in parallel, and they also get power from the key, but via fast idle/timing advance thermostat at the front of the PS cylinder head. Check the connector there, if it's unplugged and 6 and 12 are reversed, the symptoms would be as you describe.
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707 Posts
Are you sure your meter/test light is making good contact? 6 and 9 are hard-wired in parallel, so if 6 has power, 9 should also have power. The one that must have power for the engine to run is 12, that is the FSS (fuel shutoff solenoid). The other two are timing advance (6) and fast idle (9). They are nice to have in cold weather, but not an absolute necessity.
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707 Posts
Epic communications fail! :lol: I was looking at it from the driver's seat...
Looking at it your way, 6 is the FSS. 12 and 9 are the advance and high idle. And I looked at my IP closely, 12 has a single red wi/white stripe, nine has two red wi/white stripe, and 6 has two red w/green stripe. I'd have to pull up the wiring diagram on Autozone.com (registration required) to see where they go.
6 should have power with the key on. if the engine is cold (<112°F), 12 and 9 should also have power. Sometimes the plug comes loose from the advance switch, it's on the inboard top of the PS head near the front, near the bottom of the fuel filter. Advance isn't strictly required, but it does help with cold starts, even in warm weather.
So with the key on, have you tried disconnecting and reconnecting the 6 o'clock wire? Can you hear the FSS click?
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2,301 Posts
What exactly is the problem you're having?
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2,301 Posts
I'm going to assume you were cranking the engine and didn't get any fuel. At cranking speed very, very little fuel will seep from the injector nuts. If you're not getting anything at all - no spitting, not even wetness around the injector line, then you definitely could have a bad injector pump. Removing the pump is a simple matter on a 7.3l, then you can bring it to a diesel shop to have it tested and rebuilt or replaced if necessary.
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update
ok so a buddy told me a story about his diesel being low on fuel and how it wouldnt start
I changed the fuel filter and added a couple gallons of fuel, cracked the the injector lines to bleed and after a couple dead batteries pumped fuel to the lines and got it started, hmmm go figure, not out of the woods yet, thanks for all of your help guys
ok so a buddy told me a story about his diesel being low on fuel and how it wouldnt start
I changed the fuel filter and added a couple gallons of fuel, cracked the the injector lines to bleed and after a couple dead batteries pumped fuel to the lines and got it started, hmmm go figure, not out of the woods yet, thanks for all of your help guys
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15 Posts
Well this 10 year old thread just saved my butt. I shut it off in the mountains far from home and could not get it restarted even after walking with my dog down to get a new fuel filter because I thought fuel supply was my problem. Check the injector pump nothing was coming out at the injector but plenty was going into the injector pump. Check the pink wire on top cleaned up the connection plugged it back in. Cranked It up and I'm back on the road. I think it's time to go through the entire engine compartment cleaning all the electronic connections.
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