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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 6.0L

Drove the truck ~ 20 minutes away to the gym, went back outside 1.5 hour later, everything worked but the starter didn't engage. No click, nothing.
I checked ALL the fuses that sound like they might relate, then swapped in the Blower motor relay. Tried to start in neutral and wiggled the gear shift around while in neutral and park. Still nothing.

Is this the Ignition Switch? Or what other things should I look at? I thought I just saw a thread where someone had posted a replacement DIY or diagram for the switch?

I got the truck home by turning the key to the Run position and then quickly crawling under the truck and jumping the posts on the starter with the spair tire lock thing from my glove box.
 

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Fuse 22 on a 2006 is to the ECM, which controls the starter.

Mine did the same thing. But when I put a reader on it, it told me it could not communicate with the ECM. Turns out the fuse had blown in the bottom of the fuse right before the metal when under the colored plastic. Hard to see.

Might be your problem also. You can also use the wire under the hood on the passenger side to engage the starter. Just disconnect at the conncector and touch it to the positive side of the battery. I'll see if I can get a picture of it I the morning.
 

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yellow with light blue striped colored wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump that has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection. Disconnect it, and jump the male end of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal as tman said. The starter should crank when you do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tman - so you still think it might be a fuse? My owners manual says fuse 22 on my '07 is a 20amp for "Engine Control". I'll check it in the morning. If that fuse, along with the fuses I've already checked (27,31,45,103,110,116,307) are good. Then what?
Fuse 22 on a 2006 is to the ECM, which controls the starter.

Mine did the same thing. But when I put a reader on it, it told me it could not communicate with the ECM. Turns out the fuse had blown in the bottom of the fuse right before the metal when under the colored plastic. Hard to see.

Might be your problem also. You can also use the wire under the hood on the passenger side to engage the starter. Just disconnect at the conncector and touch it to the positive side of the battery. I'll see if I can get a picture of it I the morning.

Bismic - what will me jumping that wire to the battery rule out? Or are you saying this is just an easier way for me to jump the starter than what I did to get home today?
yellow with light blue striped colored wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump that has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection. Disconnect it, and jump the male end of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal as tman said. The starter should crank when you do this.
 

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It is a whole lot easier to do than getting under the truck w/ a screwdriver.

It rules out the starter and can help point to the ignition switch, but you already have done that.
 

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From what I understand the ECM controls the starter relay circuit in the newer 6.0's.

I would just replace the fuse with a known good one. I had looked at mine as I usually do, but after the 3rd time, I really looked at it. It had burnt into just before it went behind the colored plastic. Very hard to see and not at all where you would expect it to seperate.

Mine was caused from the air filter restriction gauge wiring touching the engine block. The puking had deteriorated the gauge and the wiring had fallen out with the connectors from the air filter gauge still attached and had fallen over and was touching the block.

I discovered the ECM wasn't getting power when my AE would not connect to the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Truck still won't start, I hear all the familiar sounds under the hood but it just doesn't engage the starter. Any more ideas?:8:


Are you referring to the Ignition switch when you say engine control switch? I hear all the familiar sounds under the hood but the starter doesn't engage.
Yes the engine control switch will not let the starter engage. Also if that fuse is blown you wont hear the injectors either
I inspected fuse #22, it was good but I replaced it with a new fuse anyway (one I had scrutinized equally).
I would just replace the fuse with a known good one.
 

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A shorted fan clutch circuit can keep it from cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is there a way for me to check the ignition switch? I haven't replaced this and can't seem to shake the idea that its the problem. Unless I don't understand fully what its purpose is.

Ok. I'll look down into the fan area here shortly and make sure no wiring has been cut/damaged.

That's exactly what happened to mine. The fan clutch wire fell into the fan and the truck died immediately and would not crank. However my engine control fuse blew.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I checked the fan area. Nothing loose or cut. I popped the PowerStroke plate off the top of the fan shroud to inspect all the way to the clutch fan. I unplugged the fan and tried to start, also didn't help. Keep the help coming please

Is there a way for me to check the ignition switch? I haven't replaced this and can't seem to shake the idea that its the problem. Unless I don't understand fully what its purpose is.

Ok. I'll look down into the fan area here shortly and make sure no wiring has been cut/damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The Starter Relay doesn't have 12v. I pulled the relay and checked the pin which should be hot and its not. What does that mean?

I pulled the Upfitter relay in slot 305 and the same pin had 12v.
 

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You need to check 2 pins.

Pin 30 -- This should be hot at all times. If not, fuse F2.113, 30A in the Central Junction Box is blown.

Pin 86 -- Should have power when the key is in the start position only. If not, fuse F2.31, 15A in the CJB is probably blown.

If both these are good, then you need to start looking into the ignition switch / wiring. The PCM won't ground the ignition circuit if it's not getting an input from the switch thus not energizing the coil side (pin 86) of the starter relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the response dieselmac!

I replaced F2.113(30A) it and it blew immediately when turning the key to crank. I then pulled the new replacement starter off the truck and inspected it to find an arc point from the constant cable(little ear off the side of the eyelet) to the switched power. Its hard to explain but I guess the solenoid on the aftermarket replacement starter wasn't built exactly the same allowing for this to happen. I removed the starter, cut that little ear off the eyelet on the starter wire and reinstalled. I installed a new fuse. The truck cranked and started. I drove it for 20min. Turned it off. Turned the key back to crank and it popped fuse F2.113(30A) again.

Could the starter be toast from it arcing before? Or what else might be causing this issue?

Pin 30 -- This should be hot at all times. If not, fuse F2.113, 30A in the Central Junction Box is blown.
 

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Maybe the arc burn came from jumping it with the tire tool?

The starter could very well be toast. Probably has a dead short. Check the starter relay before you go to the trouble of removing the starter though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
UPDATE

Maybe the arc burn came from jumping it with the tire tool?

The starter could very well be toast. Probably has a dead short. Check the starter relay before you go to the trouble of removing the starter though.

I did see some the burn marks from me arching the starter using the tire tool, the mark was in a different place however. I went to the junk yard and came home with ~ 40 fuses, paying $4.50 each at Autozone wasn't going to happen again.

I put another new starter on the truck.
Replaced the F2.113(30A) fuse.
Swapped in known good relay.

I had someone start it while someone watched for sparks under the hood, and I layed under the truck watching for sparks at the starter. Nothing in either location. The truck started twice and we called it good.

I'll report back again soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I hate reading posts on the forums when the final answer is never posted. haha.

Answer: The new starter I installed had a solenoid which was manufactured slightly different from the OEM starter. The constant power cable has a little ear tab on the side of the loop where it bolts down. That little ear hanging from the side was touching a different part of the solenoid. I pulled the starter off, cut that ear tab off the harness connection. Problem solved.
 

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ok resurrecting this thread because my truck wont crank with good charged batteries. I unhooked the wire on the pass side and put it on the pos batt terminal and NADA. I have not yet checked fuse 22 as im at my pc right now, just want to get the input going.
I just went elk hunting and the generator for my RV wouldnt run the trailer so i had to leave the truck running to have some heat.... its cold in colorado at 10,000 feet high so had to. Anyway I dont know if running it for so long to run the heat did something or not.
my starter is the original starter and if its bad i am going to probably put the 6.7 in while im there, yes no?
 

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If the electrical connections at the starter are good, then it is probably the starter (assuming batteries are good). It certainly could be a wiring issue, but from what I have seen, that isn't real common.

I recently installed the 6.4L starter and it does a nice job.
 
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