The Diesel Stop banner

Im a new Excursion owner I have questions?

2057 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  socalgn
Hey guys

I am a new owner of a 2000 7.3 diesel excursion with 142,000 miles on it. This is not my first diesel, I have owned my 99 f350 7.3 for over 7 years and have a lot of experience with the powerstroke. But have a few questions about this one.
first none of the automatic door locks work, all have to be unlocked manuelly. Was told I have to replace a sensor in every door? Is that true?
Also Its throwing a code, will a edge module work as a code reader?
Anything I should look out for? I know most of the Powerstroke things but dont know much about the chassis and cab.

any info would be great
1 - 1 of 9 Posts

Try this link, some good help the door Actuators.

2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 - Door Lock Actuator Installation

I have had trouble with 3 or 4 between the X and the 350. I found replacements for around $40.00 dollars, if I remember correctly, I ordered them online.

Some else wrote:

Here you go

It has been a couple months so I might not remember the exact size sockets but here are the directions.
On the bezel where your window switches are, pull straight up on the front, then pull towards the front of the truck, this will remove the bezel, unplug it and set aside. There are two screws that hold the door panel on, one is under the bezel you just removed and the other is under the courtesy light cover. After you remove the two screws lift straight up on the door panel and remove. You will have to remove the plug for the courtesy light. Now peel back the sound proofing about 1/2 way, be careful as you want to reuse this. Now get a flashlight or droplight into the door area. You can now see the backside of the door handle. There are two bolts that hold the door handle on, one you get to with a wrench from inside the door and the other you need to remove the rubber plug on the side of the door and use a socket and extension. Disconnect the two metal rods that hold the door lock in and set the lock assembly aside. Now you have a clear view of the actuator, if you look at the new one you cane see a plastic spring lever that must be depressed to release the actuator. Using a small flat blade screwdriver reach in and depress that plastic bar, with the other handle wiggle the actuator and slide towards the outside of the door. If you have big hands this can be a little tough. Once it slides out simply unplug and replace in reverse order. You want to make sure that the rod on the actuator goes into hole on the lock assembly. This sounds complicated but it will all make sense once you are in there. PM me with any ??? The new actuators are much stronger than the old ones.

Another wrote:

WARNING: The following is long winded, but if you want your PDL's to work again WITHOUT spending any $$ read on.

I finally got tired of my non-working PDL's and decided to tear into my truck and find/fix the problem. There has been many discussions about possible issues and I have concluded that the majority of us are seeing actuator motor problems and not relays, switches etc. Ill start by saying the problem I have had is that when I hit the switch, the locks attempt to move and after repeated attempts, the signal appears to get weaker and weaker until nothing....I assumed relay or switch.....NOT THE CASE!

First I started by testing the signal at the harness plug to the actuator. Perfect. No issues here. Next I completely removed the actuator/lock mechanism and bench tested them with 12V..Here lies the problem. The actuator acted the same as when in the truck. First I did a thorough cleaning of all of the mechanism so it works freely and still had the same results. Here's where it get's tricky. These things are built so that they are NOT serviceable. I had already decided that they were going to need to be replaced, so I decided to break them open for closer inspection. It comes apart relatively easily, but appears that It cannot be put back together once apart. I drilled out two small rivets and then pried the case apart. As you pry the case apart you'll notice these small little plastic rods protrude up through the case cover. These rods are then "mushroomed" with heat through the upper case and then sealed with some kind of silicone. When you pry apart the case the "mushroom" head breaks off and the rod remains. You can dig out the silicone and mushroom head with a pick. It comes out very easy. Inside you will find a very small motor and some gear mechanism. I believed the problem at first to be worn brushes or dirty commutator contacts in the motor itself. You'll have to bend two little metal tabs out and pull off the brush housing on the back of the motor. I cleanded the gunk off the brushes and took 1500 grit to the commutator contacts and reassembled the motor. The motor worked, but if you applied even a slight amount of resistance on the armature, it would stop the motor. It should have been WAY stronger than this. I was stumped until I looked a little closer at the inside of the plastic brush housing. Inside you'll find a small, thin rectangular (thermal resistor relay, dodad, thingamabob??) pardon my ingnorance, but I'm not sure what to call it. All I know is that this little part is what keeps you from burning up the motor, should you continue to press the switch once the lock has been actuated. It appears that this thing wears out over time and will not allow enough signal to get through to the motor to make it work. THE FIX. I am cheap. Since I had done so much work up to this point, I decided that I would go a little further and try to make it work without spending the $$. I have better things to spend my money on than actuators. I took a small piece of aluminum foil and wrapped the "thing" voila! Perfectly working motor! I sat there and operated the thing for 10 minutes including one or two times stopping the armature and holding down the switch to see what would happen. The motor builds heat, but not much. Not enough to worry about. Now that I had a good working motor I decided I would try and reassemble the unit. The problem is you cannot glue the unit together as there is a rubber gasket around the perimiter of the case and if you tried to glue the rods into the case, you would not have enough pressure on the two halves of the case to keep the gears in place (these things actually apply a great deal of torque on the case) What I decided to do is completely break off the plastic rods flush with the bottom side of the case and then drill out the bottom case and screw it together. This worked perfectly. You'll need screws that are the same diameter as the holes in the top of the case to keep it from "wandering". Also the screws should not protrude through the back of the unit as some of the mechanism has some pretty close tolerances and a screw sticking through the back would not allow some of the mechanism to work (this can be remedied with a decent set of wire dikes or a hacksaw). I know all of this is hard to picture, but if you do decide to try this fix, you'll see what I am describing here. The locks are back in and working flawlessly.
See less See more
1 - 1 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.