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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2003 6.0 and am at 34 thousand actual miles. Total bullet proof as per bible with orings and flepros. Total delete. All the filters. Replaced hpop and all supporting orings, tubes. Ball bearing was still in housing but now with new hpop I got all power and black smoke. New Ipr and ICP with pigtail. Ford parts. I have not done a mechanical pressure reading yet as I cannot believe the LPOP is weak. I have all my power and runs great! I sit possible to have top oring leaking at injectors causing this. Just looking for opinions before I yank the cab again. Thanks


Forgot: at idle operating temp 23%. .8V and 700
 

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Not infamous and you are looking at the wrong oil system from what I can decipher form your post. I have replaced my share of oil pressure switches for either failing to close and indicate pressure or more commonly leaking oil. If you want to check oil pressure before spinning in a new sensor the minimum oil pressure specification is no less than 12 psi at 700 rpm at full operating temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Replaced sending unit/swith three times. Along with pigtail. Replaced hpop and 3 times IPR with pigtail. Correct vehicle will not run without base oil pressure just to fire injectors. Air tested through IPR port and no leaks heard or detected with leakdown according to gauge on tester. Dead silent building with no radio and 4 sets of ears. Only at operating temp at red light in drive. Base idle set at 675 through sctx4
 

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Maybe the dash gauge in the cluster is bad, or possibly a short in the wiring harness. You really should do a mechanical pressure test before spending any more money.
 

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Replaced sending unit/swith three times.
I think someone famous (can't remember who right) now said: "The definition of insanity is doing the same thing multiple times and expecting different results."
I'm not trying to be disrespectful, but you need to do troubleshooting in a logical manner.
As Ford_Doctor said, you're looking at the wrong system. The dash gauge being inoperative has nothing to do with the HP oil system. If you've changed the sending unit and pigtail three times, you need to look downstream of there, towards the wiring to the instrument cluster and the instrument cluster itself. In order to work, the gauge needs continuity in the wire between the switch and the gauge. You should check that. A ground path is also needed for a complete circuit as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And I respect yalls points. I agree 100 percent. If this damn thing didnt have only 34k on it, Id be right with ya. This just started. And I am going to get a mechanical reading on base oil pressure, lpop if you will. Its only after I jump off the I-10, I really am leaning to a problem with bulletproof cooler/hose. I stronly believe its a problem with the hose from cooler to top of motor. Why? We kinked it once really bad pulling cab off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Another new IPR and now ford seems to have just the screen without the triangle or thee plastic braces covering the screen. Its a brass screen now whereas the other ones were stainless I believe. Once it stops raining Ill go blast this damn thing to see the disappointment. Changed it due to no movement dtected or seen in plunger with snap on scanner moving full duty cycle. Hooked air to it and had leaks at all holes even with 12v hooked. New one from ford did the same thing but once it was pulled we said f it and put new one in anyway. Truck runs its butt off and Im rolling coal. All pids look great. This dang gause pees me off on the dash.
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And I respect yalls points. I agree 100 percent. If this damn thing didnt have only 34k on it, Id be right with ya. This just started. And I am going to get a mechanical reading on base oil pressure, lpop if you will. Its only after I jump off the I-10, I really am leaning to a problem with bulletproof cooler/hose. I stronly believe its a problem with the hose from cooler to top of motor. Why? We kinked it once really bad pulling cab off.
Why would a hose cause no-pressure when hot?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think its restricting flow all the time. Just a hunch. Sorta like when a brake hose to a caliper is coming apart internally. You have pedal when applying but rubber/blockage wont let caliper compress. Its mandatory in my shop that every time we change a caliper a new hose goes on. I fought a caliper decades ago from this very issue. Since then we change hoses. Ahain, just a hunch. Fuel injector o-rings I havent totally ruled out. The top ring at spool
 

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I would think that an oil hose that has flow and pressure at all times would not act like a brake hose.
 

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If you have all the power you expect and it runs great, I don't see how it can be in the high pressure oil system - anywhere.

A healthy high pressure oil system CAN pull down the pressure in the low pressure system if it isn't providing enough flow.

Are you sure that the oil filter drain valve isn't allowing oil in the filter housing to drain back to the oil pan? It can happen w/ a tall oil filter cap and an OEM filter, or if the drain valve is broken.

maybe the low pressure oil pressure regulator is sticking?

Without data it is all guess work.
 

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What exactly is your issue? Is it just that the oil pressure gauge doesn't work at all?

Your posts are all over the place and I for one have trouble following what the actual issue is. If it's just that the gauge doesn't work, but everything else is works OK (which you've indicated it does - as far as I can tell), then you have to look at the gauge and it's supporting wiring.
 

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What exactly is your issue? Is it just that the oil pressure gauge doesn't work at all?

Your posts are all over the place and I for one have trouble following what the actual issue is. If it's just that the gauge doesn't work, but everything else is works OK (which you've indicated it does - as far as I can tell), then you have to look at the gauge and it's supporting wiring.

I was thinking the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry, been out a bit and fighting the flu.

If I go on the interstate and get oil hot like anything above 210 then when I imediatly get off the interstate and hit a red light the oil pressure (gauge- low oil side) will drop to zero. Changed hpop, icp with pigtail, IPR a few times. All power is there. I have still yet to do a mechanical low pressure oil reading. It hasnt done it since last IPR from Ford but I also havent driven it to get oil temp up there yet.


Also yanked regulator in lower pressure pump again for a look see and its clean as a whistle.


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you have all the power you expect and it runs great, I don't see how it can be in the high pressure oil system - anywhere.

A healthy high pressure oil system CAN pull down the pressure in the low pressure system if it isn't providing enough flow.

Are you sure that the oil filter drain valve isn't allowing oil in the filter housing to drain back to the oil pan? It can happen w/ a tall oil filter cap and an OEM filter, or if the drain valve is broken.

maybe the low pressure oil pressure regulator is sticking?

Without data it is all guess work.

Bullet proof oil cooler. I do not have the oil filter up top anymore.
 

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Edit - nm. I saw where you checked the regulator.

Now all that is missing is a mechanical pressure reading.
 

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Look behind oil filter housing to the left. Find the one wire oil pressure switch. Cuss a lot as you find the release tab oriented in the spot making it hardest to depress to unplug wire. Unplug the wire connector and see if oil is in the connector. Replace the switch and see if problem is gone. The oil pressure switch is removed to check oil pressure and the fitting needed is a metric thread most oil pressure gauges you'll find won't have in the kit. The switch is $20 on amazon for Motorcraft SW5267. That is half the price of the auto stores for their off brand and you don't have to leave your house to get it next day if you have Prime.
As has already been said, the oil pressure switches fail on these engines and many other Ford models using that same switch. It can do it anywhere from 16 miles to 336000 miles and in one week or 14 years.
The oil pressure gauge is not a gauge on your truck. It goes to a fixed point when the oil pressure switch gets at least 8 psi (yes Ford lied to millions of customers for a couple of decades with this fixed point "gauge" system that is nothing more capable than an oil pressure warning light).
 
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