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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I just recently became a member, but I've been lurking in the shadows for quite sometime (great site).
I have an '03 6.0 F250 SD. When cold this truck runs like it's only running on 4 cylinders and no power. I've been reading and thought injector stiction was my problem so I changed oil to Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic thinking this would help. Boy was I wrong, it made matters worse! I bought a scan tool did testing in driveway, on the road, no codes. Finally took it the dealer who me told 4 injectors are going down and my turbo has some coking. This truck warm, runs great, no problems, so we keep it plugged in. I just don't understand, if injectors are going bad why it runs good warm, besides that the price tag scared the crap out of me. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Also, I've started running 1 oz TC-W3 to 1 gal. diesel for about 100 miles no improvement!
 

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Sounds like stiction to me too.
Just for giggles, take the batteries out and have them load tested, get them fully charged, then check the FICM.
Might be something strange going on with it.?.?
If that reveals nothing, your probably looking at new injectors.

Stick with full synthetic oil with this engine. Dino oil has varnishes that can be the source of your stiction issue. The varnish will build up on the injector plungers, causing them to stick. Once the oil that controls the injectors heats up, the varnish will become more slick, allowing normal operation. Then as it cools, the issue will return.
 

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I had the same issue after I had the FICM replaced. I changed the oil. I always use Rotella 5w40 T6 and put in two 4 oz bottles of Rev-X. I have not had any problem with stiction thus far. Might want to try that first. If that doesn't work then you might have to replace the injectors. HTH
 

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I have 97 powrstroke 7.3 f-250 hd 4x4 5spd W/ 256.000 miles .. i was thinking of using royal purple 15/40 .. i does run a little rough but i was told i needed to replace glow plug ..also i was told not to even think about using a bypass for my oil (fs2500)..
 

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Brickman, are you running the stock air cleaner and filter? X-2 on load testing the batts. A failing one or both can do funky things with the electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
03powerstrokeuser, I'm stock front to rear except for tires and wheels. The batts are walley world made by johnson controls and were bought in 12/10. I'll have them checked.

Help me understand if you can, how (if stiction) 5w-40 made things worse when everything tells me it should of gotten better even if only alittle.
Thanks for the help
 

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SEAFOAM ?

I also get a rough start when I havent driven it for a couple days or the temps are below 45. The only time it does NOT start rought is if its pluged in or I run my Xtreem street tune. I use "seafoam" in the fuel tank every 3000 miles to keep the injector's fuel side clean. I read on the can that it can be used in oil as well to clean internal parts. Has anyone tried this to clean the oil side of the injectors? I thought about giving it a try about 500 miles before an oil change. What do you guys think. :shrug03:
 

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Brickman, I agree with Mounty's post about why they stick. Varnish from dino oil. When the oil cools back down the injector plungers stick because of this varnish build up. I will mention that past sooting in the engine oil is also a big contributor. It also happens to be a fuel side issue as well. Give the oil a little time to get the oil side in shape. Also grab some Diesel-kleen or Stanadyne, your choice, and treat the fuel to boost the cetane level and to clean up the fuel side. I run Diesel-kleen religiously and for that reason. You may have some bad injectors, that is true, but there are things I would try first. The reason I asked about the air cleaner you are running. Take a close look at the top of the air cleaner and locate the black snorkel tube. What is it's present routing as you see it? Also are you having delayed shifts from the tranny while cold or at operating temperature? Have you cleaned and checked for the updated egr valve?
 

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I use "seafoam" in the fuel tank every 3000 miles to keep the injector's fuel side clean. I read on the can that it can be used in oil as well to clean internal parts. Has anyone tried this to clean the oil side of the injectors? I thought about giving it a try about 500 miles before an oil change. What do you guys think. :shrug03:
I think you should never put that stuff in your diesel. Ever. Not in the fuel, not in the oil. :nono:
I have used it in the past on gassers, with great success. Diesels are very different animals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello, I will have to check air cleaner snorkel tomorrow, but when cold tranny won't shift til 3k+ and it's a hard shift. Sometimes I can feather the pedal and it will shift ok, but no power.
I've done alot of searching for info. about the egr. I was going to pull it and clean it or at least check it out before I went as far as doing the injectors.
I have 63000 mi. on the truck and 31000 on my short block. I've had alot of problems early, but it's still a bad little motor!!
 

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If it is not routed underneath the molded rubber flap directly in front of the batt. and exit just behind the driver side head light bulk head. It is in the wrong place! Also make sure it is not pinched shut.
 

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Hello, I will have to check air cleaner snorkel tomorrow, but when cold tranny won't shift til 3k+ and it's a hard shift. Sometimes I can feather the pedal and it will shift ok, but no power.
QUOTE]

Yep, same thing here. what i have to do is... right as it gets to the rpms were it should shift i compleatly let off the pedal and then instantly get back on it and it shifts pretty good. all the while it is shaking and blowing blue smoke.
 
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