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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm considering installing thedieselsite's coolant bypass valve on my '00 E350 cargo. Before I plunk down the bucks, does anyone have install instructions posted? Any gotchas? I looked but didn't see any on thedieselsite, and didn't find anything searching...

edit: meant to include the link to thedieselsite's kit:

http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=21

ahm
 

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I would like to see the instructions myself.
 

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me three

I'd like to be able to turn it off all of the time remotely, I understand this kit only does it when on max air or whatever the highest setting is without outside vent.

Thanks,
Tim

2001 Ford E-350 HD PSD
1998 Isuzu Rodeo 6 cyl
1989 Ford Born Free RV 460 engine
 

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I have mine half way installed.............. it takes a few minutes to find the correct line to cut and put the valve in the line, tighten the clamps and that part is done. The real trick for me, and the part I have not done yet, is to find a hole in the firewall on the passenger side to run the vacuum hose thru. The hose that came with the kit is plenty long, but I can't find a existing grommet to go thru. So what I did was just wire the valve in the closed position. Actually I used 2 zip ties. The valve is now closed and will keep water from running thru the heater core. The cheap way would be to cut the line and put two spark plugs , one in the end of each line and hose clamp them in place, or use two big bolts and clamp them in place. Then in the fall just take out the bolt or plugs and put a splice piece in place. The valve works in the max position only and this time of year I leave mine in the max all the time. The parts store may still sell a plastic manual valve you could install in the heater hose. Turn it off for summer, on for winter. Probably cost 10 bucks.
 

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I installed a 1/4 turn ball valve for poly pipe from home cheapo for $5 bucks? It already has ribs for poly pipe crimps & fits the heater hose great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've sent an email to their tech support. The item listing on their web site says, 'Full detailed instructions including color pictures are included.'

If I actually get them in email, I'll host/post them.
 

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Here is more what I had in mind (link to forum thread)

Please make sure to read the whole thread in the above URL

I don't know for sure that just stopping the flow to the heater is the best plan. The bypass "ranger" valve referenced in the thread would let the coolant go toward the heater and return to the block, bypassing the the heater core in the bypass mode, so if for some reason the engine needed that flow it would have it. The flow would be there, but no heat would be lost because of the bypass. Seems more logical to me.

Finding room to properly place that valve in a Van is another chalange. Lets have some input on this. I'm doing some mods and got the wrong valve today, will be returning it tommorrow and getting the ranger valve.

The thread mentions a 12v solenoid, to turn the vacuum on and off.

Lets see, it's late, and I'm tired.... but it looks like.

Recirculated air is only used during MAX A/C and OFF.

Which means that the flap is operated by vacuum then.

So, if we hook up the ranger valve to the MAX A/C and OFF vacuum source then we would have NO HEAT, in MAX A/C and OFF modes.

But, what if we wanted to bypass the flow to the heater in other modes of operation. Put a T in line from the flap source to the ranger valve. Then on the other leg of the T, connect a vacuum hose to the solenoid and then connect a constant vacuum source in the van to the solenoid. (in and out)

So, with the switch off, no vacuum, ranger valve is under the control of the switched vacuum from the MAX A/C and OFF.

Turn on the switch and you can put the valve in the bypass mode anytime because you are providing vacuum to the ranger valve.

I need to put my vacuum tester on the vacuum line coming from the MAX A/C and OFF control, to make sure that when it is not under a vacuum that it is closed off and I am able to pull a vacuum with my tester.

(One of those squeeze pumps to pull a vacuum).

If I can't the I need to find another way ot make this work.

It would be nice to put the control on vent and have outside air come in un-heated.


C'ya,
Tim

2001 Ford E-350 HD PSD
1998 Isuzu Rodeo 6 cyl
1989 Ford Born Free RV 460 engine
 

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Room for the valve is no problem. Cut the hose and put the valve in line. It just lays there in line.
 

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The "room" part comes in when you use the "bypass" valve which connects to both lines.

The Ranger uses a "bypass" valve because the Lima 2.3 needs the heater circuit flow. My Mustang II with the 2.3 uses the same style shutoff.

Vee type engines don't need the flow and you can safely shut off the line going "In" the heater. (Don't shut off the "out" line only because it will increase pressure in the heater core because of water pump pressure).
 

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I have the dieselsite valve installed in my 7.3 truck. I've been running it for a couple of years with no problems. Before that, I had a ball valve.

I didn't wire my valve to be controlled by the AC. I got a solenoid valve from Vintage Air and wired a switch so I can shut off the heater core when I run the system on the vent setting.

I had to isolate my switch wire from my DP Tuner control cable because of electromagnetic interference.

I've got a 6.0 kit for my van, but I haven't installed it yet.
 

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I may install it on the rear circuit, so that I can keep the blower on but not cook the passengers. There is no temperature control for the heat or air on the rear circuit. It's either blowing hot, or blowing cold, at its maximum capability.
 
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