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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the story, I dropped 4k on an after market tranny, one of the big popular super duper bullet proof E4OD's you can buy online. I'm withholding the name until they really screw me over. I also bought their tripple disk bullet converters as well , that was $1200.

They shipped me the transmission, i had it installed, a couple weeks later it starts acting up. After towing my boat, when I put the truck in reverse to back the boat into my yard the converter locks up and of course the engine dies. If i let the truck sit for a minute it works fine again. The transmission company has beed trying to help by sending me a temp guage (for me to tell them the temp), then I tested the pressure at the shift points, then they sent me a new filter. This took a year and a half (I'm a busy guy). Nothing helps. It only does it once in a while. AND, funny thing, when the tranny is acting up, if i go from drive to reverse the converter locks up. But if I go from Neutral to reverse it works fine. Whats going on? The tranny company is clueless, they want to keep sending me parts but I've had enough. I want a new transmission but they want me to pay the $500 for shipping AND pay for install. I say they sent me a defective transmission so they should replace it and pay all costs. They wont. Anybody have an idea what might be causing this problem?


Sorry for the long post.
 

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I recall a short or a bad brake light can cause the truck to act weird in reverse. Don't quote me on it but someone else will chime in
 

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My truck did the same thing but only once it was warmed up. I could back out of my driveway first thing in the morning just fine. By the time I got to work 15 mins later it would stall going into reverse. I had the transmision rebuilt it it's been fine since. I'm so glad cuz I had to do the samething you did Mark, put it in neutral wait about 5 secs then put it in reverse even then it would lug.

I had my brother in laws brother in law rebuild it at his transmision shop, the TC is the only thing he could think would cause it. He took the tranny apart right in front of me, although he went so fast I really didn't know what he did but said everything looked good inside. There were a couple of hotspots on some of the metal rings but nothing internal that he said would of caused it.
 

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I'll ask the obvious but not to come off as an ass, the fluid level is full correct? The sticks are hard to read and low fluid level will do exactly as you describe.

If its ok then there may be other issues, by chance did you have the pan off or install a different or deeper pan? A filter assy not seated in the pump correctly or one that has fallen down will also do this exact same thing.

I'm not sticking up for the builder. lets just make sure everything is cool before the finger starts to get pointed, these tranny threads blow out of control before you know it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Richter, i hear ya about tranny issues.Thats why I'm keeping their name quiet for the moment (you all will know who I'm talking about when I do say the name). Fluid level was the first thing they had me deal with. then temp, then fluid pressure, then a new filter. They are truly baffeled at this point and the owner is starting to walk away from this prob by not doing much at this point. He's sorta pulling back waiting to see what I will do.


Anyways, Phatbuilder, so did your bro in law's bro in law pretty much say it was the converter? Man that would be an easy fix...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Naw no chip, no mods at all on the motor.

I'm thinking it must be the transmission, otherwise this prob would have existed before the instal. When it happens i get a trans computer code. I forget the number but its "converter locking" or something like that.
 

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Mark, he said that was the only thing he could think of. The truck never did it for him, but then he only drove it down the street and turned around. When he tore the tranny down he thought I was crazy, there was nothing that would point to the tranny doing that. It's hard to point to it exactly because he upgraded everything on it. I guarantee he built it as tough as that $4k tranny.

I had a TS chip and took it out thinking that was the problem too. Checked the fluid levels did all the little things everyone suggested. Not until he rebuilt it did it start acting right again. I went so long with it doing that I still pause before I go in reverse.
 

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electrical is out, the pump locks out the converter apply in reverse. Sounds like a fluid starvation problem, and all the simple stuff has been addresses, I think you need another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I went so long with it doing that I still pause before I go in reverse.

Thats funny, i do that when i'm in my other truck





Some of the things that were done to it were:

Hydraulic upgrades:
Custom pressure regulator steel sleeve, boost valve and spring.
Full time converter feed and lube valve.
Custom accumulator springs and steel capacity valve.
Larger line modulator valve (quicker shifts).
Modified cooler by-pass for max cooler and lube flow.
Optional Tugger® equipped valve body doubles holding power of low/rev clutches in manual low.
Prevents downhill clutch burn up when using an exhaust brake or engine compression braking.
Short-crisp upshifts with “class”, performance and durability

Clutch Pack upgrades:
Friction plates are ALTO Red Eagle Hi-energy
Over drive clutch count increased to 4 friction elements (allows towing in O/D)
Coast clutch increased to 4 friction elements ( a must for exhaust brakes)
Intermediate increased to 4 friction elements (stops 1-2 slide)
Forward increased to 6 friction elements
Direct increased to 7 friction elements


Is there something in the Hydrualic upgrade that could be faulty? Like the pressure regulator? I'm thinking its some component they custom made that isnt working right.
 

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I'm going to talk to him tommorow and ask him what he thinks it was. I asked him the day he took it apart but haven't asked him about it since. My tranny was completly stock when this happened I didn't have any upgrades at the time so anything "extra" added to it probably isn't the cause.
 

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[ QUOTE ]



Some of the things that were done to it were:

Hydraulic upgrades:
Custom pressure regulator steel sleeve, boost valve and spring.
Full time converter feed and lube valve.
Custom accumulator springs and steel capacity valve.
Larger line modulator valve (quicker shifts).
Modified cooler by-pass for max cooler and lube flow.
Optional Tugger® equipped valve body doubles holding power of low/rev clutches in manual low.
Prevents downhill clutch burn up when using an exhaust brake or engine compression braking.
Short-crisp upshifts with “class”, performance and durability

Clutch Pack upgrades:
Friction plates are ALTO Red Eagle Hi-energy
Over drive clutch count increased to 4 friction elements (allows towing in O/D)
Coast clutch increased to 4 friction elements ( a must for exhaust brakes)
Intermediate increased to 4 friction elements (stops 1-2 slide)
Forward increased to 6 friction elements
Direct increased to 7 friction elements


Is there something in the Hydrualic upgrade that could be faulty? Like the pressure regulator? I'm thinking its some component they custom made that isnt working right.

[/ QUOTE ]

I see part of the problem from your list. You have 2 add-ons that don't work together. One side affect is your TCC applies in reverse. If you want to PM the builders contact, I will double check and be sure the terms or names of things you have listed are what I think have been installed.

Richter is correct that the TCC won't be applied in Reverse. The PCM won't apply it or the valve. Another condition exists that will "allow" TCC to make contact and reduce rpm enough to stall the engine.

Do you also have firm or very firm shifts?
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[ QUOTE ]
Custom pressure regulator steel sleeve, boost valve and spring.
Full time converter feed and lube valve

[/ QUOTE ]

the line to lube is not a good thing, not sure what he is using for a "custom pressure regulator steel valve", but here lies the problem. There are too many "leaks" in the pump, reverse takes a lot of fluid to acheive and the converter clutch is being applied as a result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This is great, you guys know your stuff. I feel like we are zero-ing in on the problem. I also feel that the builder will leave me high and dry so I'm glad to have something to tell my next builder. Wish I'd have used my other option and went with Brians Truck Shop, he was my first choice but couldnt tow my truck out to him. Oh well.


But again to explain my prob... when the TC locks up it really locks up, 1 second later and my truck dies. There is no hesitaion or struggle to keep the engine running. just a couple thumps and the engine quits.

Anyways,

To answer some questions;


Do you also have firm or very firm shifts?

I had an option for Either-OR and chose the Firm shifts as apposed to super firm. In fact the trans kicks ass beside the problem. the items I've posted as having been done to my trans are cut and pasted from their website

What was done to the CBV?

Not sure what was done, I did however install a big trans cooler, the self regulating type that works off of the viscosity of the fluid...hotter the fluid the more of the cooler it flows thru. Never checked the return line because the temp never ever got hot. I used to tow a monster fishing boat, 12k lbs, i would have to tow it up a steep hill (1st gear only) for a 1/8 mile, temp hardly moved. The cooler really worked well I believe. coincedentally the prob would occure when I returned home from towing, not when I got to the boat launch.

Hey Richter that makes sense, thanks for the insight. and thanks everyone for your help. I will talk to the builder and fire off some of these ideas.

My last thought:

Trans-X, I can imagine this stuff is murder for a transmission but what about trying it out as a last straw before it gets R&R'd?

What do ya all think?
 

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[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Custom pressure regulator steel sleeve, boost valve and spring.
Full time converter feed and lube valve

[/ QUOTE ]

the line to lube is not a good thing, not sure what he is using for a "custom pressure regulator steel valve", but here lies the problem. There are too many "leaks" in the pump, reverse takes a lot of fluid to acheive and the converter clutch is being applied as a result.

[/ QUOTE ]

We can't be telling Banks and the others what they can't figure out from their desks and clean hands Jon. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif People will keep buying it because it's A BRAND NAME. But I'll always help those who get their own hands dirty anytime.
I'll say this: Your "leaks" exist due to a double mod inside if your list is accurate. I believe the builder didn't understand "How it works" when choosing the mods. Some of the things choosen are closely guarded trade secrets so that is a partial explanation. The builder will only be told how to install, and why it should be bought, but not how it works.

If they did what you listed, you won't need a full rebuild. Just a repair. I agree with Richter on that "custom" PR valve, not on lube if done right. The builder has to watch out for the early lube mod and undue that type.

The shift feel wasn't an easy ? to answer in an extra clutch tranny. More clutch is less travel and hits harder. A shift kit in itself. I'd like to see if it's a 4 plate coast clutch as well. That can be an expensive mod. Unless you have a 4r100 there. Still takes custom work without the rare expensive pto drum.
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I see your in Cali....

BTS is my first option...but seeing as you already have the trans....why not get ahold of John Wood's Shop?

He has done a few trucks that I know of and it seems as though he knows his stuff......Give him a hollar he is in Cali too, and it is my understanding he is a Great guy.


Just an option.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
40"Ground Hawgs on Weld Wheels

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Of course you have the right gears to turn those monsters right? Otherwise that would be murder on a tranny with stock gearing and 40s!
 
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