Well I installed my IP today and was wondering how long to prime these beast with all the injector lines loose. I cranked her over and had a buddy watch the lines but no fuel yet. I only cranked her over for about 10 secs then waited for about another minuit then cranked over for another 10-15 secs with no signs of fuel from the injector lines. I had my buddy hold the shrader valve in then cranked her over again and fuel gushed out. So I must have air in the lines and I have all of them loose. Should I do one at a time or all???
installed IP, best way to prime engine.??
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there is quite a bit of space to fill in the IP.
first disconnect the fuel line to the IP and crank it over untill fuel comes out and then hook it up to the IP. then crank it longer, You will have to crank it for a while ( not all at once, let the starter cool).
first disconnect the fuel line to the IP and crank it over untill fuel comes out and then hook it up to the IP. then crank it longer, You will have to crank it for a while ( not all at once, let the starter cool).
well got it primed and started. Seems to rum smooth. The truck does not smoke at all. I noticed alot LESS power. Even under hard acceleration it does not even smoke at all. My old pump was turned up but was getting hard to start after it was hot. Thats why I replaced. But the less power and no smoke at all seems timing may be wrong or this pump needs turned up??? What you guys think
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214 Posts
If you have a pyrometer, I'd say turn it up a little bit if you're not getting blackish smoke during hard acceleration.
Maybe then you'll get your power back.
Maybe then you'll get your power back.
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2,214 Posts
Don't turn up the fuel screw until you get the timing right.
From Peter
Retarded timing will cause white smoke, too advanced timing will give you black smoke. Remember advance is top of pump to pax side, retard is top of pump to drivers side, do not change timing when engine running, tighten all nuts before starting. 1/32" or pencil leads width is about 3* so 1/8" is about 12*, way to far at one time.
*******
If it starts and runs really quiet I would suggest your timing is retarded slightly.
The following info was posted as a guide for retarded timing, remember do not move the injector pump engine running and always tighten the IP before starting.
The marks on the pump to housing are only accurate if it is the original pump from the factory. Your timing is a few degrees retarded. Turn the injection pump 1/16" to the passenger side (measured at the pump to housing flange) That's about 4 deg.
If you don't see white/blue smoke on acceleration your within 3 to 4 degrees retarded (white smoke = more than 4 retarded) low power, poor milage and prolonged starter engagement. If you see black smoke with heavy combustion noise, you are 4 or more deg too advanced. Glow plug damage can occure and mileage will suffer. You know you have it when it starts quickly and gets good milage.
Huff
If you want to see if the timing should be advanced you could hook up a 12v jumper to the timing advance when the engine is warm, if it idles better or runs stronger then you can do an advance 1/16", then try it again to see if more is required.
From Peter
Retarded timing will cause white smoke, too advanced timing will give you black smoke. Remember advance is top of pump to pax side, retard is top of pump to drivers side, do not change timing when engine running, tighten all nuts before starting. 1/32" or pencil leads width is about 3* so 1/8" is about 12*, way to far at one time.
*******
If it starts and runs really quiet I would suggest your timing is retarded slightly.
The following info was posted as a guide for retarded timing, remember do not move the injector pump engine running and always tighten the IP before starting.
The marks on the pump to housing are only accurate if it is the original pump from the factory. Your timing is a few degrees retarded. Turn the injection pump 1/16" to the passenger side (measured at the pump to housing flange) That's about 4 deg.
If you don't see white/blue smoke on acceleration your within 3 to 4 degrees retarded (white smoke = more than 4 retarded) low power, poor milage and prolonged starter engagement. If you see black smoke with heavy combustion noise, you are 4 or more deg too advanced. Glow plug damage can occure and mileage will suffer. You know you have it when it starts quickly and gets good milage.
Huff
If you want to see if the timing should be advanced you could hook up a 12v jumper to the timing advance when the engine is warm, if it idles better or runs stronger then you can do an advance 1/16", then try it again to see if more is required.
Well took it for a drive again today and the truck starts right up little smoke on start up but did that before ip change. I have no smoke at when driving. Just seems to lack power and takes the rpms around 2300 to get 9-10 psi boost. Before I was getting 9-10 psi boost at about 1700 rpms. I used the 12 o clock marks on the pump and housing for now to get it started but have not moved the pump yet. I try advancing it a little beacause it is definately running quieter. Thanks for the input guys.
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214 Posts
Well I just got done installing a return line, GPs, and a Gp controller.
It took a couple of mins of cranking and then fired right up.
I did it myself and had nobody to crack IP fuel line.
It took a couple of mins of cranking and then fired right up.
I did it myself and had nobody to crack IP fuel line.
[ QUOTE ]
Well took it for a drive again today and the truck starts right up little smoke on start up but did that before ip change. I have no smoke at when driving. Just seems to lack power and takes the rpms around 2300 to get 9-10 psi boost. Before I was getting 9-10 psi boost at about 1700 rpms. I used the 12 o clock marks on the pump and housing for now to get it started but have not moved the pump yet. I try advancing it a little beacause it is definately running quieter. Thanks for the input guys.
[/ QUOTE ]
You definitely need to get your pump timed.
Well took it for a drive again today and the truck starts right up little smoke on start up but did that before ip change. I have no smoke at when driving. Just seems to lack power and takes the rpms around 2300 to get 9-10 psi boost. Before I was getting 9-10 psi boost at about 1700 rpms. I used the 12 o clock marks on the pump and housing for now to get it started but have not moved the pump yet. I try advancing it a little beacause it is definately running quieter. Thanks for the input guys.
[/ QUOTE ]
You definitely need to get your pump timed.
Yea I have come to the conclusion that is what it is. I've drove it the last couple of days and it drives fine just lacks the power. Having trouble finding somebody around me to time it. Anybody around newark, Ohio has a timing light give me a shout and I'll buy the beer!!!!
Gee whiz... you were only a couple hours away from the IDI Weekend. You should have come. I'd have done it for you for nothing. Went right past you on I-70 both ways too.
I wish I would have went. Kids and sports though. Family first
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