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Discussion Starter #1
Around how much would it cost to install head studs?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thats alot, im looking to just do head studs right now, do you know how much hours of labor it would be to do head studs
 

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I think you'll be hard pressed to get an honest answer to that question. Most professional mechanics (and most amateurs for that matter) won't do "half" a job.

This reminds me of a time when a friend shows at my place and says "I need a new throw-out bearing". I promptly tell him to pick up a new clutch and pressure plate too. He then tells me he only wants the bearing replaced. So, stupid me, I take it apart for him and I show him that the pressure plate is gouged from the worn bearing. He doesn't care and tells me to put it together like that. A week later he comes back with the same problem. I then told him where to go!

I don't mean to be negative. Some jobs just aren't meant to be done part way. If you can't afford to do it right, it's best to wait until you can or you risk spending more than you have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so if I were to get head studs, what else do I need?
 

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I remember my old High School shop teacher drilling us whenever someone screwed something up. He used to say;

"There's never enough time to do it the right way the first time, but always enough time to do it the right way the second time."

or something like that. It was ages ago. But it makes sense.
 

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I had gotten a price from River City Diesel about a month ago for head stud installation. They told me 3200. Anything else you wanted would just be cost of parts as it is all removed anyway, ie injectors, turbo, coolers. Not sure if that included decking of the heads or not.
 

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so if I were to get head studs, what else do I need?
You'll need to test to see if your egr cooler and oil cooler are running within their parameters. Many change them out while stuff is apart. An addition of a coolant filter is a great idea at this point. While heads are off get them checked for flatness and and any cracking. Flushing the coolant before taking stuff apart is also a good idea. Upgrading the STC fitting plus various o-rings (stand pipe, dummy plugs, injectors, etc) and of course, head gaskets are needed too.
 

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Does anyone besides me see how rediculous this is?! Wish I'd known I'd have to plunk down an additional 5 grand on this truck before I bought it. Would have spent the extra money on a D-Max! I mean, isn't anybody else pissed about it?! The designers made a mistake on this. THEY need to make it right! Hell, the government would've bailed them out anyway. Sorry. Had to rant about it.
 

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Does anyone besides me see how rediculous this is?! Wish I'd known I'd have to plunk down an additional 5 grand on this truck before I bought it. Would have spent the extra money on a D-Max! I mean, isn't anybody else pissed about it?! The designers made a mistake on this. THEY need to make it right! Hell, the government would've bailed them out anyway. Sorry. Had to rant about it.
It is slightly frustrating to have to put a good chink of change into a truck that most of us payed over 30K for in the first place. The real issue is that you would want a Dmax! I can understand a cummins! haha, sorry, had to rant...
 

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The Big Three all have/had problems with their diesel engines to some degree. My 2001 5.9 had issues with the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor and the POS Carter fuel pump, which was mounted on the block. I was lucky, because other 5.9 owners had the dreaded "53" block, which is prone to cracking. All in all, I spent a little over a grand to get my 5.9 reliable;I've spent close to the same amount to make my 6.0 reliable.

My point is that the grass isn't always greener on the other side. If they all decided to quit the HP/TQ peeing contest, I wonder if we'd have a better quality product...

BTW, I've seen quotes of $1700 labor to do head studs from other members, but I agree with the others, do it right the first time and knock everything out, so you never have to worry about it again.
 

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Does anyone besides me see how rediculous this is?! Wish I'd known I'd have to plunk down an additional 5 grand on this truck before I bought it. Would have spent the extra money on a D-Max! I mean, isn't anybody else pissed about it?! The designers made a mistake on this. THEY need to make it right! Hell, the government would've bailed them out anyway. Sorry. Had to rant about it.
I tell you what, you want a duramax go get one, i switched from a 04 duramax to a 07 6.0L about 4 months ago, i knew the problems but duramax's had injector problems... and if you don't care about being squooshed in your truck, get a duramax, yea the motor could handle the power i threw at it but the injectors and labor for mine was quoted out at $4,000. You think i regret getting my ford and dumping my duramax? Not at all other than my stupid kid side loving the extra power, until my tranny went into limp mode... I love my ford way more than i loved my duramax... Built :ford: Tough _____ Izuzu = Foreign... :nono:
 

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I have an 04 6.0 and am doing the ARP studs now. 124000miles out. I am second owner. First owner did EVERYTHING else but the studs. And a Ford dealership did his work for him. My question.....why not the studs also???
O well, dealership friends here say once I'm done with this, regular maintenance should be all that's left.
We all have our preference to what we drive so be happy with it. I am. And it's been a two day job without removing the cab.
 

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Doing studs you'll need:

ARP studs
OEM head gasket set (inlcudes standpipes & DPs)
OEM intake gasket kit (get the one with the turbo mounting kit)
OEM exhaust manifold gaskets (not used on F-series, but will leak once taken apart without them, think E-series used them factory)
LH & RH glow plug harnesses (will be brittle from heat, often damaged, not worth the risk trying to reuse the old ones)
EGR delete (optional, but highly recommended)
STC fitting upgrade kit
Blue spring upgrade kit
OEM OC (optional, but its very easy to do not while you're there)
Coolant filter kit (flushing prior to the work is a really good idea too)

And yes it sucks having to drop your coin to fix Ford's problem, but that's how it is anymore. No other manufacturer's product is going to be better. Even the once mighty Cummins has been felled by emissions and computer controls. Look at it this way, its a lot cheaper than a new truck.
 

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I think you'll be hard pressed to get an honest answer to that question. Most professional mechanics (and most amateurs for that matter) won't do "half" a job.

This reminds me of a time when a friend shows at my place and says "I need a new throw-out bearing". I promptly tell him to pick up a new clutch and pressure plate too. He then tells me he only wants the bearing replaced. So, stupid me, I take it apart for him and I show him that the pressure plate is gouged from the worn bearing. He doesn't care and tells me to put it together like that. A week later he comes back with the same problem. I then told him where to go!

I don't mean to be negative. Some jobs just aren't meant to be done part way. If you can't afford to do it right, it's best to wait until you can or you risk spending more than you have to.
Don't do part of the job and leave the important parts out. One of the issues Ive noticed is guys pullin their heads slappin a new set of gaskets n studs in but don't send the heads out for pressure testing etc. Im a big believer that the negative rep this engine has gotten are due to half assed mechanics. My 03 that Ive had since new has had a ton of mods, stacked tuners and a water/meth kit on for some reason unknown to me it never blew a head gasket. Then theres the guys that barely drive it n theyre spending thousands. Do it right or don't do it at all. Just my 2 cents
 

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Im a big believer that the negative rep this engine has gotten are due to half assed mechanics. Do it right or don't do it at all. Just my 2 cents
Finally. Someone else gets it. Lol
I have a buddy who has a buddy of his do all the work on his truck. This other guy is a so called mobile mechanic and only runs 6.0's. He told my buddy that he's okay running ford gold coolant...... nuff said.
I think he's seeing the light with what I'm telling him though.
He's also running a tune on factory head bolts, and not monitoring temps..... ay, dios mio.
Do you have any threads anywhere with more info on mods you've done?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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When I was still wrenching in a shop a full cab off shut off to start up was 24-26 hrs. Heads went out for pressure test and resurface. Egr coolers we put frost plugs in the ends of the cooler to stop flow through the cooler but still pass a visual test. They fail because theres too many idiots who can't follow maintenance instructions and use the proper coolant. I've tried cab on head re/re as well as cab off and cab off saves you in every way.
 

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For Review / Consideration

When I performed ALL the Known 6.0L Failures on My 2006 F250 FX4

Another Key to a Successful END Result in my Humble Viewpoint
= TAKE Lots of Digital Photos as you REMOVE Parts
= EACH Bolt or Nut removed I placed into Separate ZIP Lock Bags and Tagged on Outside
= Cardboard Template is another ... made same then inserted bolts into Cardboard Template
= USE the Heavy Duty reinforced PACKING Tape ... Mark with Permanent Marker on Sticky side then Fold Over onto itself WRAP around Parts that CANT Fit into Zip Lock Bag or Cardboard Template

You all get the idea ( Smile )

Any person who THINKS they will remember ... IS asking FOR Trouble

As it's been stated on this forum By Senior Members
- IF GOING to do a JOB
DO Right first go round
BUY Quality Parts
Due Diligence / Research / Gain Knowledge and SO Forth ... BEFORE Hand ... SAVE you in the Long Term

Respectfully
 
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