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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
04 PSD - Just put in a Bulletproof EGR and new ford oil cooler. Got all the intake manifold bolts lined up and in place but not torqued down yet. The front of the manifold is a little high, not much, but I wouldn't be able to get the upper fan shroud bolts back in. It appears that the big donut O ring between the manifold and the engine is holding it up a little. I double checked to make sure the O ring is seated properly. Questions are: Has anyone else had this problem when replacing the intake manifold, and is this normal? Not worry about it and just torque down the manifold? This is the first time I have done this work on my truck, and I don't want to screw something up and have to do it over again...
 

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EGR cooler or delete? Either way, is that coolant tube seated well? I've had it off several times and don't remember it being off very much....

do you have the torque sequence for the intake? it involves getting the passenger side bolts down finger-tight then torquing the driver side.


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04 PSD - Just put in a Bulletproof EGR and new ford oil cooler. Got all the intake manifold bolts lined up and in place but not torqued down yet. The front of the manifold is a little high, not much, but I wouldn't be able to get the upper fan shroud bolts back in. It appears that the big donut O ring between the manifold and the engine is holding it up a little. I double checked to make sure the O ring is seated properly. Questions are: Has anyone else had this problem when replacing the intake manifold, and is this normal? Not worry about it and just torque down the manifold? This is the first time I have done this work on my truck, and I don't want to screw something up and have to do it over again...
This is normal. The o-ring is quite thick and solid and it does prevent the manifold from sitting flush on the heads toward the front of the engine. It will compress as you torque down the manifold. Remember to re-torque ALL of the manifold the bolts 2-3 times as the first few bolts that you tighten will be loose after all of the bolts are tightened. This is normal as well. Also, it is best to torque the two front EGR cooler bolts and snug up the rear EGR cooler clamp before tightening down the manifold. This positions everything and reduces stress on the cooler and the y-pipe from misalignment problems. Then final tighten the clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies!! I feel a little better now. I do not know the torque sequence for the intake manifold. I usually always torque multiple bolts in a cross-pattern. Torque value I have for the intake manifold is 8ft/# or 96in/#. Is this correct? Same value for the two EGR bolts (to manifold)? Any other tips and tricks to getting the manifold/EGR/pipeclamps on correctly? THANKS!!!
 

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There is a sequence - Tighten the passenger side from front to rear FINGER TIGHT, then drivers side from rear to the front to 8-lb/ft. Then torque all bolts again in sequence to 8-lb/ft. Repeat sequence to specification one more time.
 

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Not trying to hijack the thread but this is related. I'm just finishing replacing both heads on my engine out of the truck. Based on how you said to align the manifold with the clamp at the back before torquing, should I not install the manifold until the engine is back in the truck so I can line up the back end of the eye cooler and get the clamp on it first?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Followed the torque sequence given, and the manifold came down into place perfectly. EGR inlet was spot on, so just a little pull on the up pipe with a ratchet strap, and the clamp went right on. THANKS for the info!!!!
 
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