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Hi guys, I'm new to this forum but I'm hoping you can all give me some help.

I have seen a lot of info on the IH pump swap. I have a 94.5 F250 that I want to perform the IH water pump swap on. All the info and swaps I have seen show 96-97 trucks. From looking at these trucks & pictures it appears that my truck has a different radiator. My outlet for lower hose is on the drivers side thus the Cummins Ram lower hose does would not work.

Has anyone done this swap? Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill
 

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Bill -- Howdy and welcome to TheDieselStop! :)

While I don't know if this would work in your application, I know people have used two hoses with some PVC or similar to get a lower radiator hose to work. Since the International water pump is 'reversed' from the stock pump, maybe a lower radiator hose from a '96 or '97 might work?

Cheers from Claremore, OK! :)
Dave
 

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Best I can suggest is to hit the local parts house preferably a NAPA that is local and start matching hoses to diameter to the angle you are looking for. Hope this helps
 

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How to Remove a Water Pump on a Ford F-? 7.3

The 7.3-liter diesel V-8 engine in your Ford F-250 utilizes a heavy-duty water pump to circulate antifreeze through the radiator and coolant passages of your engine to keep it running cool. If your water pump is worn, it may not be able to circulate the coolant properly, causing your engine to overheat. In this case, the water pump must be removed to install a new pump. The water pump is mounted to the front of the engine block and is sealed to the block mating surface with an O-ring gasket. If antifreeze is leaking from around the water pump, its removal is also necessary so that the gasket can be replaced.

  • Drain pan
  • 19 mm wrench
  • Pliers
  • 5/16-inch nut driver
  • ½-inch ratchet wrench
  • 10 mm wrench
  • 1 7/8-inch wrench
  • Flat blade screwdriver
Removal instructions;
· 1
Place a five-gallon drain pan underneath the radiator drain valve on the driver's side of the radiator. Loosen, but do not remove, the drain valve with a 19 mm wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Allow the coolant to drain completely from the radiator then tighten the drain valve.
· 2
Open the hood. Remove the overflow hose from the white plastic coolant tank at the top of the engine with a pair of pliers. Remove the three holding screws from the tank with a 5/16-inch nut driver. Remove the tank from the engine bay.
· 3
Remove the upper radiator hose by squeezing the clamps with a pair of pliers while pulling the hose from the radiator and the water pump. Place a ½-inch ratchet wrench into the square hole on the serpentine belt tensioner at the top of the engine. Rotate the wrench counterclockwise to slacken the belt tension. Slip the belt from its pulleys and remove it from the engine bay. Slowly raise the handle of the wrench and remove it.
· 4
Remove the two bolts from the top of the plastic fan shroud with a 10 mm wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Remove the center nut that holds the fan to the front of the water pump with a 1 7/8-inch wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Lift the fan shroud and the fan together from the engine bay, being careful not to damage the radiator fins.
· 5
Pull the electrical connectors from the coolant temperature sensor and the cam position sensor on the face of the water pump. Loosen and remove the nine bolts that attach the water pump to the front of the engine block with a 10 mm wrench turned in a counterclockwise direction. Carefully pry the water pump from its mating surface with a flat blade screwdriver and remove it from the engine bay.
Tips & Warnings

· To keep the water pump pulley from turning while you are trying to remove the 1 7/8-inch holding nut for the fan, a special tool is available from auto parts stores that will hold the pulley in place while you are removing the nut.


· Install your water pump in the reverse order of the above steps.
 

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Hi guys, I'm new to this forum but I'm hoping you can all give me some help.

I have seen a lot of info on the IH pump swap. I have a 94.5 F250 that I want to perform the IH water pump swap on. All the info and swaps I have seen show 96-97 trucks. From looking at these trucks & pictures it appears that my truck has a different radiator. My outlet for lower hose is on the drivers side thus the Cummins Ram lower hose does would not work.

Has anyone done this swap? Any ideas? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill
Dragging up a slightly older post but I'm also installing an International pump on a 94.5. Has anyone else tackled this? I'd be eternally grateful for some sort of suitable replacement p/n...

I too thought about using a 96-97 hose and reversing but it doesn't look it's molded quite right to work, and what's that fitting for?
 

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I don't recall ever seeing anyone do the swap on a 94. The bottom hose is still the problem. Cheers!
 

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I don't recall ever seeing anyone do the swap on a 94. The bottom hose is still the problem. Cheers!
I guess I'll have to be the first. :) I think I have it nailed down. Was hoping to avoid piecemealing something together with couplers but I don't see an alternative. I'll be using an IDI and 96-97 lower hose - could have used a 96-97 hose only (with couplers) if the pump outlet wasn't 2.25", but the IDI hose was only $10 anyway. Will post some pics when done

The thought crossed my mind using a later radiator as I'll be replacing mine anyway but as best I can tell the core support is different and I don't want to deal with that degas tank either.
 

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Ok, I'm a little embarrased to show this but here's what I end up doing/using:
Napa p/n 8076, qty 2 - 90 degree, 2" ID (listed as Ford but I have no idea for what model originally)
Napa p/n 8103 - '94 IDI lower hose [VIN K], same as the Powerstroke's [VIN F], but with a 2.25" step to fit over the International pump inlet
Speeday p/n 917-1763-2.00 - 6" x 2" hose connector (double clamped the straight section)
Speeday p/n 917-1764-2.00 - 3" x 2" hose connector

It took alot of trimming and checking but the end result fit quite well. I could not use the 96-97 lower hose because it was 1.75" ID and not 2" like the 94-95, and it didn't have enough length/depth on the waterpump side if that makes sense.




 

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Actually that looks pretty good (no reason to be embarrassed there)! Thanks for posting that up for all the 94 guys. Cheers!
 

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Why not upgrade to the 95.5-97 radiator? Saves quite a bit of weight, they are less leak prone and I got about $50 for my old 94 radiator as scrap metal. I've done it on the 1996. Thought I did a writeup but can't find it. You need a salvage radiator, radiator brackets, RH battery tray/degauss bottle/washer fluid bottle assembly and appropriate hoses.
 

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Why not upgrade to the 95.5-97 radiator? Saves quite a bit of weight, they are less leak prone and I got about $50 for my old 94 radiator as scrap metal. I've done it on the 1996. Thought I did a writeup but can't find it. You need a salvage radiator, radiator brackets, RH battery tray/degauss bottle/washer fluid bottle assembly and appropriate hoses.
For that very reason. Personally I did not go with a later rad because I did not feel like salvaging all the necessary parts you list, plus I'd rather not deal with that degas tank either.

On a somewhat related topic, my radiator was due for a replacement anyway so I picked up a Spectra unit pretty cheap. Everything I had read showed they were produced in Canada but when it arrived I was dissapointed to find mine was Chinese. Regardless I'm impressed with the design/construction, it's aluminum and lighter than the original. Also I found an IDI guy on this board who bought the identical one for his and has 2 years of daily driving on it now without any issue. Here's his pic:
 
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