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Discussion Starter #1
My IP is leaking, most likely from the advance piston housing but possibly from one of the line nuts. I haven't felt like tightening them in the snow & rain, so I brought the IP from my previous F350 to a local Stanadyne shop for an estimate and will bring the pickup into the shop after work tomorrow to put a wrench on the nuts and pressure wash everything. Today I got a call, like the thread title says the estimate is $900-$1100. It was a Frankenstein pump from a mass rebuilder, put together with whatever parts were on hand, and was badly worn everywhere. No way in hell am I spending that kind of money on an IP, not when a guy a little more than an hour from here has a good, running 7.3l IDIT for a grand. Or I can buy his OEM turbo for $750, which would make spending the money on the IP worthwhile. I KNEW I should have bought a couple IPs from u-techcenter a few years back! But this is just gonna have to wait till I get my Jeep put back together, or the leak gets bad enough that fuel drips on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have no idea, the woman who works there says mass rebuilders can get away with charging so little because they use whatever parts they have on hand whether they're right for that pump spec or not. Back when I first started working at my current job I brought something in, and she asked me what high school I'd gone to and when I graduated. When I told her she said I looked like someone she'd went to school with. After getting that estimate, I wish I'd told her I was in her class and had wanted to take her to the prom so badly LOL.
 

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For the heck of it I asked the injection (Stanadyne) shop in Billings what an overhaul and calibration ran and they said about $600 which I thought was higher than normal. They're part of a huge John Deere dealership and I got the impression they charge accordingly. Maybe if you try an independent local IP shop?
 

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I have no idea, the woman who works there says mass rebuilders can get away with charging so little because they use whatever parts they have on hand whether they're right for that pump spec or not.
She is ignorant at best, and more likely a liar. My local shop will do it much less with the right parts.
 

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She is ignorant at best, and more likely a liar.
If you were in the industry at one time or another you'd know she's absolutely right, other than here quoted price. What she says applies to many other components too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For the heck of it I asked the injection (Stanadyne) shop in Billings what an overhaul and calibration ran and they said about $600 which I thought was higher than normal. They're part of a huge John Deere dealership and I got the impression they charge accordingly. Maybe if you try an independent local IP shop?
This was an independent local shop, I probably should have said authorized Stanadyne service center. They're one of 2 local shops we use, Monday I'll probably pick up the disassembled pump and bring it to the other shop to get an estimate from them. I wish I could find invoices from thd 2nd shop in our computers, it'd give me an idea of what to expect. Though I think it's been at least a few years since we had a DB2 rebuilt, lately it's been Lucas pumps we've had trouble with.
 

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Though I think it's been at least a few years since we had a DB2 rebuilt,
Me too. I'm convinced my pump's metering valve was scored due to the station having gas mixed in with diesel. For a complete rebuild and turbo-compatible calibration, with out digging out the old receipt it was something like $230-$280, but that was about 15 years ago. Plus he may have given me a break because the shop I worked in gave him all our pump business.
Then in later years we got some less than brilliant shop foremen and they went "cheapest bid" and we got just what the lady you mentioned above said, comebacks up the whazoo.
 

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If you were in the industry at one time or another you'd know she's absolutely right, other than here quoted price. What she says applies to many other components too.
There's just not that many components to stock. A responsible shop will refuse to rebuild if they don't have the proper parts. Sorry to hear you've worked for so many irresponsible ones, but not surprised
 

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You're trying to tell me I worked in a component rebuilding shop? Too many hours at the casino?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There's just not that many components to stock. A responsible shop will refuse to rebuild if they don't have the proper parts. Sorry to hear you've worked for so many irresponsible ones, but not surprised
Responsible ones, yes. We've all seen the inexpensive parts store rebuilt starters & alternators that last a year or less, and I've seen more than a few posts here in which someone gets a rebuilt pump from a bulk rebuilder that either doesn't work right out of the box or fails soon afterward. I've worked on enough stuff to know that the blame can't always be laid on the rebuilder, but more than a few times I've heard that it's not uncommon for 10% or more of electrical components from bulk rebuilders to be bad right out of the box. It's more cost effective for them to replace the defective item under warranty than it is to send it back through the process, and I don't see why the same wouldn't be true for IPs from bulk rebuilders.

Even assuming the estimate I got is 50% higher than the norm, short of having the pumps rebuilt in a 3rd world country there's simply no way a bulk rebuilder can provide the same quality for 50-60% of the cost. My guess is that a lot of marginal parts get reused, and as long as the pump can be calibrated NOW, even if just barely, they don't really care what happens in 50K miles.
 

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Responsible ones, yes. We've all seen the inexpensive parts store rebuilt starters & alternators that last a year or less, and I've seen more than a few posts here in which someone gets a rebuilt pump from a bulk rebuilder that either doesn't work right out of the box or fails soon afterward. I've worked on enough stuff to know that the blame can't always be laid on the rebuilder, but more than a few times I've heard that it's not uncommon for 10% or more of electrical components from bulk rebuilders to be bad right out of the box. It's more cost effective for them to replace the defective item under warranty than it is to send it back through the process, and I don't see why the same wouldn't be true for IPs from bulk rebuilders.
Yes, that is the basis of my reasoning, too. Many bulk rebuilders are crap. They affordably rebuild parts by doing a ****ty job. We've all had rebuilt parts fail on us, right? Especially if they came from Napa.
 

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I work in a small independent diesel shop & rebuild all types of injection pumps & injectors. As a small shop we can't afford a lot of warranty claims so make every effort to do the job right the first time.
Unfortunately the automotive DB2 went out of production almost 20 years ago. With fewer and fewer DB2 equipped vehicles around the cost of quality parts has increased (we use only Stanadyne parts, we haven't found many aftermarkets that can match their quality)
I have had customers bring in DB2's from bulk rebuilders for repair and can understand Phil's high estimate. I have seen pumps so messed up with incorrect parts and worn parts that obviously should have been replaced at the previous rebuild that the cost to 'do it right' escalates. Also as these pumps are rebuilt multiple times the housing must be replaced. The advance piston bore can only be reamed out so much and the housing is then toast.
A typical rebuild here (I'm in northern BC, Canada) runs $500-$600. If the hydraulic head & rotor are damaged (or incorrect) this could almost double the price. In such cases it may be better for the customer to try to find a better core from an auto wrecker or such.
 

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Precisely, you and your quality shop is the type I was referring to before the thread got stupid and went down the crapper as is often the case when some others get involved. According to another IP shop owner, most head and rotor damage nowadays is occurring from those insisting on running veg oil, etc, for fuel, have you found this to be the case too?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have no doubt that the relatively high percentage of Jet-A I run (probably around 20%, often 75% concentration or higher) is responsible for a lot of the wear in my pump. And even with additives there's only so much you can do. A quart of engine oil per tank would probably be much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, I dodged a bullet on this one because the leak is actually from the fuel filter drain. The drain was at approximately 3 o'clock when viewed from the front of the engine and some of the fuel was making it onto the valley pan. The smell was coming from fuel running off the outer side of the v/c onto the exhaust. So I found a thicker square-cut O-ring and installed that as a gasket, which put the drain valve at about 8 o'clock when fully tightened. So now it only drips on the exhaust rather than filling up my valley pan LOL. Maybe it's time to get a 445R, I've never seen the bowl drain on one of those leak.
 

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I have the Napa filter with integrated bowl. It's cheaper than the bowl-less filter at my store, and you get a new drain valve with every filter.
 

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NH2112, are you sure yours is original? I've got the knurled wheel which when loosened opens the drain but above or below the wheel is the drain pipe which can be rotated around to any position, IIRC even when the drain is shut off. (I'm not going to go look, it's 13° right now:)) The pipe has a short section of rubber hose which connects to a long 3/16"+/- metal tube held in place with a bracket and it runs down near the fuel pump. That's the way it came from the factory.
 

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My original bowl (stamped with international logos etc) had the drain pipe in the center of the wheel. And the nipple was broken off.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I don't have the OEM filter, I'm running a NAPA 3617 which is a one-piece design with drain valve and WIF sensor port. In order to keep water from freezing in my filter and cutting off fuel flow I added about a pint of a jet fuel icing inhibitor called Prist, which basically combines with water and lowers its freezing point to -43C. I'm slowly but surely working this water out of my tank, and I'm guessing that after draining water I must have tightened the drain valve just a bit too much and distorted the rubber seal. I'll throw ANOTHER new filter on there and be a little more careful tightening the drain.
 
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