hi yall, my truck starts up instantly even below 0F but stalls after about 10 sec or idles rough. it restarts after about 10-15 sec of cranking and then runs flawlessly. definitly an air leak. and i feel like its closer to the motor than the tank cuz it stalls so soon. before the issue i had replaced all injectors and got the return line kit. and all that seems solid. wondering if my ip is leaking air and if there is a way to tell before taking it off and sending it to my local fuel pump shop. i ran alot of bio diesel or should i say bio crack this summer and wondering if its chewed holes in the ruber in the ip and if its just now showing up? i tryed soapy water on differnt conections and nothing. any advice on a leaky ip would be great. thanks- skunk
is old smokeys IP leaking air?
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Joined
·
12,232 Posts
Do you still have the OEM water drain on the firewall........if so jam a 3/8 bolt up the drain hose after draining it or put a pet**** on the line.
There are rubber seals under the cap nuts on the lift pump to filter header line and the filter header to IP line..... See my photo link.
Check out this site for possible other air leak areas too.......
Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
There are rubber seals under the cap nuts on the lift pump to filter header line and the filter header to IP line..... See my photo link.
Check out this site for possible other air leak areas too.......
Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
the stock water spperator is long gone. im runing a goldenrod water block filter. its more for fuel transfer tanks but it works thats 15 micron it has a drain valve. its clear so i can see what going on in there. and then napa number 3123 with the drain valve thats 1 micron.
the stock lift pump is also long gone. well its still there but disconected from the fuel system. i have a ruber hose runing from its in-port to its out-port. incase it breaks so i dont have motor oil everywhere. never got around to the block off plate. im runing a walbro frb-13 electronic pump and that works fine.
to sum it up my fuel system is far from stock. there are valves and ruber lines everywhere for waist oil. they are all solid. meaning no beet up looking ends. hose clamps are tight. it doesnt apear that any thing is leaking fuel. thats why im suspecting the IP.
like i said the truck starts great then stalls. about 10 sec later. i run the glow plugs again and it starts after about 10-15 or craning. fires slowly then more and more the vroom! any ideas? thanks for the help!
the stock lift pump is also long gone. well its still there but disconected from the fuel system. i have a ruber hose runing from its in-port to its out-port. incase it breaks so i dont have motor oil everywhere. never got around to the block off plate. im runing a walbro frb-13 electronic pump and that works fine.
to sum it up my fuel system is far from stock. there are valves and ruber lines everywhere for waist oil. they are all solid. meaning no beet up looking ends. hose clamps are tight. it doesnt apear that any thing is leaking fuel. thats why im suspecting the IP.
like i said the truck starts great then stalls. about 10 sec later. i run the glow plugs again and it starts after about 10-15 or craning. fires slowly then more and more the vroom! any ideas? thanks for the help!
Joined
·
13 Posts
I had exactly the same problem with my '85. I replaced all the gps, then the return lines and caps. It actually got worse. My leak ended up being at the tank switching solenoid. My point is that the leak can be pretty far away from the engine and still present the same problems. If the I hadn't found the leak at the solenoid, I was going to do the clear line test:
Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
Also do you see any air in your clear filter that replaced the water sep? I did the same thing. When I had my leak, little bubbles would come into the clear filter and after I shut it off, it would leak down over night. There would be less fuel in the clear filter by morning.
Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
Also do you see any air in your clear filter that replaced the water sep? I did the same thing. When I had my leak, little bubbles would come into the clear filter and after I shut it off, it would leak down over night. There would be less fuel in the clear filter by morning.
my tank switching sloenoid craped the bed long ago and i never replaced it. i have ruber lines to and from the tank directly.
and yes there its air in the clear filter. but there has allways been some. thats not a new thing. i have tryed to run clear lines in the past but cant seem to find ones that work well. they are eather to stiff and the hose clamp wont clamp or too thin and the clamp rips holes. what kind of clear line works well. im willing to do about anything now!
thanks
and yes there its air in the clear filter. but there has allways been some. thats not a new thing. i have tryed to run clear lines in the past but cant seem to find ones that work well. they are eather to stiff and the hose clamp wont clamp or too thin and the clamp rips holes. what kind of clear line works well. im willing to do about anything now!
thanks
Joined
·
12,232 Posts
Skidoo or quad fuel line in clear or lt pink should suffice. If you can find it clear TYGON tubing was the best years a go for most fuels etc.
High-Performance Engineered Plastics - - - TYGON® F-4040-A Fuel and Lubricant Tubing
High-Performance Engineered Plastics - - - TYGON® F-4040-A Fuel and Lubricant Tubing
thanks. seems like i could get the skidoo line at my local atv shop. i think i found the issue. my walbro pump had a small hair line crack where the elbow fitting threads on. sopose i over tightened it... i smeared some jb weld on it and i think that should do the trick. back to an ip leak...if it was leaking air would it even start or run? seems like no one thinks the ruber in there is eaten by biodiesel? how much bio would it take to eat ruber in a ip? thanks alot!
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
