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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a lot of fun taking the rear axle / ebrake apart.

In the process I bent the portion highlighted in red.

Do I need to replace ? Thanks
 

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That looks like your seal came apart - compare your new seal to the three pieces you have in your red dot. It isn't uncommon for those seals to separate and then the owner has trouble getting the hub to seat because he hasn't removed all the pieces. You've got a lot of cleaning to do before you put that back together. That bearing needs to be immaculate - do you have the torque specs?
 

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Yep. What he said. Like I stated in your original thread that this seal is a two piece integral seal. It came apart. You need to remove that from the spindle and as I mentioned, make sure to clean that surface as the new seal needs to slide on and seal to the spindle. It is not the rotating seal but it needs to be clean, free of rust and pitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yep. What he said. Like I stated in your original thread that this seal is a two piece integral seal. It came apart. You need to remove that from the spindle and as I mentioned, make sure to clean that surface as the new seal needs to slide on and seal to the spindle. It is not the rotating seal but it needs to be clean, free of rust and pitting.

Thank you but the problem is I can't remove it from the spindle... been trying for the past hour and no luck.

Any tips ?
 

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Grab it with a pair of vice grips and twist to tear it. The seal is going in the trash anyway. Polish that spindle with stainless steel wool and make sure it is completely clean before reinstalling.


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Thank you but the problem is I can't remove it from the spindle... been trying for the past hour and no luck.

Any tips ?
Usually you can knock it apart the rest of the way using a hammer and I am thinking the inner part of the seal will remain stuck on the spindle... treat it like a wear sleeve - hit it with a hammer several times which will cause it to expand. Be sure to strike the metal band directly and not the spindle. You can exercise extra care by using a flat punch and hitting that with the hammer instead.
 

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OK - now get some emory cloth and get rid of those burrs - that's where the seal rides and you want that to be as smooth as glass.

DSCN2720.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK - now get some emory cloth and get rid of those burrs - that's where the seal rides and you want that to be as smooth as glass.

View attachment 100457
Hey man thanks for your advice !

Can I ask a question ? Those divets have depth to them... so if my goal is to make the surface completely flush... wouldn't I need to fill in the gap with material then making it flush.
 

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The filler material would need to be as hard as the steel axle. Something like JB weld would get grooved instantly. MIG or arc welding on it would alter the tensile strength of the stub, so that's out. I don't think you can find a sleeve that big. Unless you're really good with a TIG, I think I'd just smooth it out so it doesn't eat the seal. If you do have a TIG, I'd use the smallest electrode you have and fill it in, then smooth it down with a fine file.


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Just polish it up and rock on. The seal may leak a little again, but trying to repair this will likely just lead to further damage, and the smaller you make the OD the looser the seal fits. I've tried epoxies and JB weld over the years for stuff like this with zero success. RT is spot on about that. Typically now when I do a rear for example I just order a new yoke so I know I have a fresh sealing surface. Even at say $100 its small price to pay for 100k or more of leak free service.
 
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