[WERA976]

I've got an ISSPRO EV2 fuel pressure gauge here in the package, and I'm about to install it. I have some questions.

Will the brass sensor in the kit screw right into the test port on the fuel filter housing, or do I also need an adapter in-line to make the connection?

Does anyone on here (with experience with this gauge) have any insight on where I should connect the wires to power the unit? Do I need to install a 3v in-line fuse like the directions mention?

Has anyone here installed this gauge and taken pictures of the install that I can reference before I begin this job? I'm not afraid to install the gauge, but it's sure nicer to go into the job with some knowledge beforehand rather than just jumping in and learning the hard way.

Thanks so much.

 

[paintingman]

The test port is metric you should have a adapter and hose long enough to keep the sending unit next to the fire wall away from heat

Install Pictures

Or you can make you own

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/glow..._FA_PS_d_6.0&gclid=CP3Ki_Ox46kCFYoP2godvS2FZg

 

[WERA976]

The test port is metric you should have a adapter and hose long enough to keep the sending unit next to the fire wall away from heat

Install Pictures

Or you can make you own

GlowShift Ford 6.0L Diesel Fuel Pressure Adapter

The test port isn't 1/8" NPT? Dammit. I don't have an adapter. Is there a brick-and-mortar store where I could buy one? I wanted to have this thing installed by the weekend for a trip next week.

 

[paintingman]

You can make you own i did if you have a hydraulic shop were you can get the hoses they should have the metric fitting you need it tell you the thread size in that link

 

[WERA976]

You can make you own i did if you have a hydraulic shop were you can get the hoses they should have the metric fitting you need it tell you the thread size in that link

From the 1st link you posted:

If an electric fuel pressure gauge is used, there is no need for the hose. The sender will just screw into an adapter. If a mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge is used a stainless steel braided hose can be attached to the adapter.

So because I'm using an electric kit, all I need to to convert the metric threads on the housing to 1/8" NPT threads on the sending unit from the kit? I don't need any length of hose, braided steel or otherwise? That might make it easier.

Do the two power wires to the gauge need to be in-line fused? Are 5A fuses sufficient? All I found were 12G wires w/ a fuse holder, I still need to source 18G wire w/ a fuse holder, I hate to step the wire size up/down like that.

Thanks for the help. :thumbsup:

 

[bigb]

Well I have an 02 7.3 so I won't be a lot of help but I have that gauge and I love it. I ordered the adapter to fit the fuel bowl fitting, but I am sure the 6.0 has a different thread. Definately use an inline fuse as recommended to protect the gauge. Here's my pics, I put them right into the dash using a hole saw. The one on the right is a DiPricol coolant temp but I have since relocated that one to the pillar and put a EV2 HPOP in it's place.

Don't worry about downsizing the wire, these gauges draw so little you could use 22 gauge. Can't you use a mini fuseholder?

Sorry about the crappy cell phone pics but you get the idea

 

[paintingman]

The hose is just to get the sending unit away from heat and to a place to mount it but still keeping it under the hood. I used the wires for the up fitter switches to connect mine they are found in the bundle of wire under the steering column there 4 but don't confuse them with the 4 blunt wires that go through the dash. the 4 that go through the dash are not connected anything but can be used to connect the sending unit to the gauge with out putting a hole on the fire wall. If you look in the bundle of wires under the hood on the drivers side under the hinge you will find 4 wire with black tape those are dead wires you will find the other end under the dash use them to connect the sending unit to the power wire. Under the dash you will find 8 wires with black tape 4 are going through the dash and 4 are hot they are for the up fitter switches that were a option to run emergency lights or what ever. If you didn't get the option the wire are still there. with a tester find the one that comes on with your lights that's hot to the gauge then other go's to the dimmer switch in the dash and one is ground. as for the fuse that's so the gauge wont burn out but not needed if you wont buy another gauge if it dose. you can see the for wires under the hood here in this link maybe they don't have tape on them but the one's with tape under the dash are hot.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums...n/paintingman-31-picture76-4-blunt-wires.html