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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the story. Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong. PLEASE HELP. Thanking you in advance.
 

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Does the truck still have an EGR cooler?

Were the heads checked by a machine shop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did the heads because my radiator cracked and the truck overheated when I took the family on vacation. The truck did over heat but not that bad. when I initially did the heads, I did not replace the EGR Cooler. I thought that nothing was wrong with it. Was I wrong. When I saw all the white smoke, I turn off the engine. I started to take the engine apart to see if I missed something when I noticed water in the pipe that goes out of the intake to the air cooler. The EGR Cooler was bad. So, I am replacing the EGR cooler with a BulletProof.

I got the head checked for cracks and checked for warping. Everything was fine. I have done business with this machine shop for years. I called them before I toke my heads and asked them if they have done 6.0 diesel heads. They said yes, plenty of times. When I found out about my problem, they were the first ones I call. Talked to the owner and he assured me that the head were checked correctly and that they were not cracked. The heads did not get milled.

One thing I did do is wire brush the block where the heads sit, not the heads. I don't know if that will affect it. I have done it to gasoline cars when I have done heads. So I would thing that the diesel block would be ok since it is also cast iron.
 

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I think that the EGR cooler was the source of the smoke. But my concern is water in my oil.
I'd tear it down and inspect the oil cooler as well. There and the heads are about the only two places it could get into. Well, that is at least common on the 6.0's anyways.
 

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Water in the oil is uncommon in a 6.0. Most places they meet the oil is under more pressure than the water, so if anything you get oil in the coolant, bot the other way around. Head gaskets leaks will push combustion gasses into the cooling system, but I've yet to see it allow water into the oil. A cracked head depending on where it was cracked could cause water to get into the oil.

I've yet to see a 6.0 head that didn't require milling. That seems suspicious to me. Typically they need at least a skim cut. You can't take more than 0.008" off them typically, which is very little, but they need to be perfectly flat, not close. If they were not cut I would tend to think this might be part of your problem. You also need to know where they tend to crack (injector bores, between exhaust valves, GP holes and sleeves). If you check for cracks in the wrong place and there are no cracks it doesn't mean the heads are good, it might just mean you missed a crack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
TKOPerformance,

I did some research and according to Ford the heads do not need to get milled if under .04 of a gap. One of my heads was at .02 and the other was at .04. I also found out that Ford recommends not to mill them so that the RMS can match. It also helps the head gasket stay in place.

I got the head checked for cracks and checked for warping. Everything was fine. I have done business with this machine shop for years. I called them before I toke my heads and asked them if they have done 6.0 diesel heads. They said yes, plenty of times. When I found out about my problem, they were the first ones I call. Talked to the owner and he assured me that the head were checked correctly and that they were not cracked.
 

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I wouldn't put a head on my truck that was .004. I know Ford says it's ok but I'm not buying it. The most I allow is .002. I've actually seen a fresh reman head from ford that was .004 out of the box.ANYWAYS. It sounds like you're EGR cooler was your problem. I bet somethings not right with the oil cooler. Maybe a forgotten or damaged O-ring. Good luck.
 

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I completely agree, and anytime I am dealing with a reman head or new casting it also goes to the machine shop to make sure it is acceptable. Probably over 50% of the time they aren't. Given only 10 fasteners per head you're really asking a lot of those gaskets, and even thousandths of an inch can make a huge difference.
 

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Agree with BGilton

if you ad one at .004 and the other at .002 they should of been machined. IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I found the my problem. I will update you guys once I am done. Thanks you all for all the help. I really appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My head job is done and I replaced the EGR Cooler but I can't get the truck to start. My HPOP pressure dose not go above 70 and my IPR reads 83.9. These numbers don't change. I have checked my IPR several times and it look like it's not clogged. I have installed new dummy plugs, stand pipes and STC. All I can think of is that it has a leak some where. Where can I buy a tool to check for leaks? Or even make one if it is possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciate it. Thanks,
 

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How long have you cranked it trying to get it to start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
you mean between checking the IPR? I crank it once for about 45 seconds. My HPOP pressure reaches 70 then it fluctuates, not going any higher than 70. Should I crank it for a little longer or more time in a row?
 

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No, I would only crank it for about 20 seconds at a time, then give it two minutes to cool down the wiring and batteries to prevent damage. On a first start after major work with the HPO system open it can take 2 minutes or more total crank time before it fires.

If its been a couple minutes and it still won't fire then something is wrong. Try unplugging the ICP first and see if it will fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I disconnected the ICP and it still did not turn on. I am going to check for an oil leak. Just ordered the part to check. I will give you guys updates later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got my tool for check leaks. It's the one you install on the oil rail. I installed it on the driver side and I think it sounded good and no leaks, I think. Then I installed it on the passenger side and I hear air coming out down in the block. Is this normal or do I have a big leak deep in my block. Any advice or suggestions if its a leak or normal. Please help.
 
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