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K&N = NO!
I assume the leak in question is around the compressor housing?

Actually, the compressor housing is under pressure when the turbo is spinning. The o-ring area sees pressure pretty much all the time (obviously more when boost is high). The only low pressure (i.e. vacuum) area is at the compressor inlet.

Could be a leaking oil seal on the comp side.
The oil is being sucked up the CCV tube into the air inlet, and dripping the very bottom between the air inlet and main housing. It's not a lot that drips. I replaced the turbo a couple of years ago and the turbo I removed had silicone sealing that part. I believe the is a large o-ring that is supposed to be there.

If it's normal to leak a little then I won't mess with it.

It only happens when I have my chip turned on. If I turn my chip off it does't drip. I have moved the CCV to under the truck and it no longer drips with the chip turned on.

I believe the problem was the increase in boost from turning on the chip that caused the K&N to suck more air, and it needed more air but it sucked more from the CCV inlet into the turbo inlet causing oil to drip.

I have sense removed the K&N and replace it with a Tymar like setup. I'll be putting the CCV back to stock to see if it is fixed.
 

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I have had a K&N cone filter and intake on for 180mi. I drive a lot of dirt roads so I put the foam prefilter on it. I only clean the pre-filter. While I am in the minority here I believe it has done a good job. I don't see excessive amounts of oil pulled in. I took off all the intake tubes and ran it through with a white tissue to see if there was any small particle dust coming through. It was clean. The turbo wheel is in good shape. I think K&N is OK.

I definitely would use the K&N replacement for the OEM filter due to dealing problems.
 

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I went with a Ford (Donaldson) AIS system. It fits nice and have not had any issues with it.
If only they didn’t cost an arm & a leg.

I have opted to keep stock filter and housing and they have been quite enough for my truck. The only mod I have is a BTS muffler and SuperChip.

I keep looking for a used AIS but never see them.
 

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I have had a K&N cone filter and intake on for 180mi. I drive a lot of dirt roads so I put the foam prefilter on it. I only clean the pre-filter. While I am in the minority here I believe it has done a good job. I don't see excessive amounts of oil pulled in. I took off all the intake tubes and ran it through with a white tissue to see if there was any small particle dust coming through. It was clean. The turbo wheel is in good shape. I think K&N is OK.

I definitely would use the K&N replacement for the OEM filter due to dealing problems.
If 180 miles is not a typo then I have to suggest that you haven’t logged near enough miles to base an opinion.

I don’t mean any disrespect.
 

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By DonWarkentin
K&N is bad (lets in too much dirt). Tymar, Donaldson, 6637, AIS are good (filter out the dirt, let the air in).

My 6637 Donaldson upgrade has made a huge improvement. $40 for the filter and $13 for the pre-filter was worth every penny. I'm still drawing cool air from the modified stock air inlet but from the engine as well. So I think because it's not fully enclosed that it may be contributing to higher EGT's but probably minimal. The higher EGT's is most likely from my PHP Hydra 140 hp tune. Interesting topic
 

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By DonWarkentin
K&N is bad (lets in too much dirt). Tymar, Donaldson, 6637, AIS are good (filter out the dirt, let the air in).

My 6637 Donaldson upgrade has made a huge improvement. $40 for the filter and $13 for the pre-filter was worth every penny. I'm still drawing cool air from the modified stock air inlet but from the engine as well. So I think because it's not fully enclosed that it may be contributing to higher EGT's but probably minimal. The higher EGT's is most likely from my PHP Hydra 140 hp tune. Interesting topic
I went with the Donaldson Blue 6637 Filter from RiffRaff Diesel. Not sure what the difference is. I did call Tymar and was getting a price on the aluminum tube and told him that I aleady had the Donaldson Blue 6637 Filter. He told me it wasn't as good as the one that they sell. I was a little confused at that point.

I see you have PHP Hydra 140 hp tune. I have tunes by Tony Wildman. I have a 96 7.3 automatic and Tony maxed my tunes out at 80hp. Not sure how they work but are you getting 140hp increase?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Steele

I went with the Donaldson Blue 6637 Filter from RiffRaff Diesel. Not sure what the difference is. I did call Tymar and was getting a price on the aluminum tube and told him that I aleady had the Donaldson Blue 6637 Filter. He told me it wasn't as good as the one that they sell. I was a little confused at that point.

I see you have PHP Hydra 140 hp tune. I have tunes by Tony Wildman. I have a 96 7.3 automatic and Tony maxed my tunes out at 80hp. Not sure how they work but are you getting 140hp increase?

I could be wrong but donaldson is the only one that sells the blue 6637. RiffRaff has a proprietary blue made by Donaldson. I bought my aluminum tube off Amazon just so I could get it quicker.

I'm not sure if there is a "real" world difference but a remarkable difference between stock and the 80hp tow and the 140. Peddle is more responsive too. I went to a dyno challenge this last weekend and thought about hooking it up but decided against it not knowing everything it has had done to it by the PO. I don't beat on my truck, I actually baby it, I just like the feel of the 140 around town. Truck just feels more responsive. My last 7.3 that was stolen back in March had the hydra and I loved it. Bought my current 7.3 in April and immediately put a hydra in it not knowing much about the truck back then except for the built trans. Truck doesn't mind it at all.
JARED
 

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I am just curious about this but has anyone actually done the math when it comes to max cfm demands of the 7.3 and then a comparison of the various filters (including the stock filter and housing)?

I recall a discussion a couple years ago and I thought it was shown the stock filter and housing meets the max cfm requirement.

The Ford AIS has a very similar, if not exact dimension as the stock snorkel (as circled in the photo) and this would be the most restrictive component.
 

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This wasn’t the thread I was searching for but its got some useful info from 444-4D and SmokeyWren.

https://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/7-3-dit-ais-severe-duty-kit-251318/#/topics/251318

Personally, since my local gravel roads have all been paved, I don’t see a $320 advantage to swapping to an AIS. I do wonder how much advantage there is in the airflow design of the AIS housing but I can’t think it is going to save me $320 in fuel costs.
 

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AFE Stage 2 Pro, best intake system I ever bought. Would never think of changing perfection.
 

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Way back in the day one of the members was able to do some testing using Banks equipment. It was a very good thread but I don't remember the outcome, any of the old crew remember that one. He also did a great writeup on balancing tires. The early and late 99 stock air filter are not the same size. If you have a stock early 99 be careful with aftermarket filters they are usually sized for the later 99 box. The only place I could find the proper filter was ford and we went by the VIN number to get it right.
DENNY
 

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DENNY

Is the difference in size both L & W or just depth?

I do know my stock Motorcraft is a deep filter (2-1/2” ?); however, it comes in a shallow (1-1/4”) as well.

All the K&Ns I have seen are the shallow design.
 

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The paper ones are thicker because they lose efficiency faster and have less flow. They need more surface area. I had a KN filter on my old stock box, which is an 02. It was a shallow like said, but it fit the box perfectly, and did not leak at the box in any way as others say it does. Fit perfect. But it was the reason I bought a billet wicked wheel for my stock turbo. It let dirt through the filter medium itself, and dusted my old wheel. Before my wicked wheel arrived, I experimented to see why it leaked. I did this by cleaning intake, and trying different oils to see if they made a difference. Turns out they did. KN filter oil is crap, it gets sucked into intake, cause it doesn't stick, then the filter leaks dirt. If you buy the newer , competitors oil, (like AFE blue spray), it never leaked anything. I ended up using the blue instead, after my wheel arrived, and its still mint, and never leaked any dust. I eventually replaced the whole system with my new turbo and build. But the KN, with AFE blue oil, worked good.
 

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It was a length issue. Both aftermarket and stock late 99. If you put them next to each other you would say "well a bit off but it should fit" well it don't. It is just the rubber edge seal that is off, it took me a while to convince myself that was the problem. I ended up going to the Ford dealer and even the parts guy said it shouldn't matter but he looked up the vin and sure enough different filter, that may have actually been part of the reason people had issues with the filter box tabs breaking back in the day, stuffing in a bit too large filter, I never saw a post on filter size, but if you stuffed a late 99 filter in a early box I could see having issues. I still have the intake snorkel to the fender, the real cold air intake.
DENNY
 

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:geek:Aftermarket K&N...rule is simple..if its passing dirt you will see it in the tube...Almost 30K on mine now and not a bit of dirt or dust anywhere to be found. They only fail MAINLY due to human error..either install is done wrong or the maintenance is done wrong..of course, there can always be a factory defect.

9000 miles on my Sportsman 800...K&N with screen... regular dust and coal dust out the arse so they do filter exceptionally well under high suction..personally I think people think paying more means better and that is so true sometimes..just not here..hardly believe my Ex is going to exceed those dust conditions.

I ditched my box...I CANNOT speak for drop ins( air box sealed, NOT aftermarket clamp on...if i am running stock then it would get motorcraft all the way...I'll keep my K&N and everyone else can keep their internet paranoia...always the same story too..valves got chewed up? oh..must have been the K&N.cylinder scored?? must be the K&N...they just like to blame the filter when they cant find the actual issue..OF COURSE the issue was fixed when you rebuilt the engine and THEN used a different filter..doesn't mean it was the filter! Ive heard this crap over and over and over..and I laugh inside every time...just like thinking CAI is ACTUALLY finding colder air..its the SAME intake air your stock box is pulling! The ONLY gain you actually achieve is higher air flow...the rest is marketing. Sorry...do an intake air temp test (I did) and you will see there is NO change in temp...they are AIR INTAKES..pull from your AC vents if you really want to make COLD a true statement.

If you've had bad luck for whatever reason, I get it...I also know K&N never really had bad press UNTIL the internet AND others breaking into the market...u can see where that leads

I have had one on every machine I have owned for,well...40+ years...MC on and off road, ATV, SXS, Cars, Trucks..0 issues... like I tell my brothers...don't blame the equipment...
IF i do ever have an issue I will definitely come back and clarify but don't hold your breath...

PLEASE SEND YOUR BARELY USED K&N AIR FILTERS THAT YOU DON'T WANT TO ME AND I WILL TAKE THE CHANCE ON THEM😁
 

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Well....
After reading all of this, I decided to go back to my stock filter. Good bye K&N......

Thanks for saving me a headache guys......
I think this forum is the best there is....
It really comes down to is it installed correctly and maintained? A LOT of misinformed people on this site that regurgitate BS. (I heard this, Friend of a friend said this).

The K&N does work as well as any other filter, but does need to be maintained and replaced when needed (K&N has a million mile or lifetime warranty). It's extremely important with the stock filter box to engage the 2 pins near the fender completely and then clamp down the holding clamps for a secure, tight seal.

With this said, I've had one on my 2001 in the stock filter box since the truck was new. I now have 284,000 miles. The K&N flows all the air I want or need with stock injectors, stock turbo, and a moderate chip installed (100hp). I've had to get one replacement from K&N due to the rubber gasket cracking. I've always maintained the filter on schedule.

I have Blackstone labs reports to back up my filtration "opinion". Silicon has consistently been lower than my preliminary blackstone analysis with the stock ford paper filter, and the K&N has consistently had lower levels of silicon between 3 to 5 ppm with universal averages for my truck at 8ppm. Perhaps someone else with different filters can chime in with their lab numbers?

It's your truck, do what you want. If you are making more than 400hp with your truck, you may want to get a different filter and the K&N filter fitting the stock filter box may not provide enough air for your application. Bottom line for me is my filter performs well for me with proof to back it up. K&N are good people to deal with and back up their warranty with great customer support.

Have fun and enjoy your truck!
 

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Not a trade off of performance for poorly filtered flow for an engine that requires much more volume than gas engine. So no to K&N, you can get all you need through a better filter element like a big Donaldson and enough for most through an AIS, your wallet will have net appreciation and you won't have to become familiar with the term " Dusting" which just means, she gone.
 

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I have been running my K&N since 05' I currently have 1,000,975 mi. on my truck the original engine had 998,587 mi. on it when I put my spare motor in it. I put the K&N in when I bought the truck with 102,000mi. so, the filter had 896,587 mi. on it when I swapped motors. I had only replaced the turbo once on the original motor at 585,000 mi. I just decided when I put the spare motor in the truck I would go ahead and put a new K&N filter and turbo in it since it was out and easy to get at. It still had some life left in it the edge of the blades showed some rounding on the blades. While I won't get into the debate of which air filters are better I will just stick to what has served me well.
 

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Everyone has their experience. Mine was bad... dust collected on the CCV oil and ended up going into the turbo in chunks, chipping and bending blades. I put a Donaldson in and haven't looked back.
 

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I have been running my K&N since 05' I currently have 1,000,975 mi. on my truck the original engine had 998,587 mi. on it when I put my spare motor in it. I put the K&N in when I bought the truck with 102,000mi. so, the filter had 896,587 mi. on it when I swapped motors.
Sorry to hear you did not even get 1,000,000 miles out of your engine by running that K&N.
 
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