[Schweiger4444]

99 f350 7.3 automatic. Can turn over the starter by connecting the studs on the cylinoid. Key on the "on" position bring wait to start, which functions normal but wont engage the starter. Wire harness has no smashes or obvious shorts.

Also the injectors seem to not be functioning either as it doesnt want to run off ether. Fuel is up to the filter and oil Resevoir is has its oils on cranking via the cylinoid studs.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank u and thank u for this forum.

Trev

 

[petwolf]

I had this happen a while back. Pull ignition switch of and see if it will start. I am meaning the electrical part under column, not key switch. I had a problem with switch not turning far enough. Welcome to the forum.

 

[Schweiger4444]

Switch was fine. Replaced some unblown fuses out of desperation and got the ignition to crank the starter now, but the injectors still are not functioning. Any ideas?

Thank you for your replies. Have to get this truck running!

 

[RT]

The power from the switch goes through the neutral safety switch and then on to that solenoid. The NSS is incorporated into the digital transmission range finder on the side of the transmission. One common issue is the shifter is loose enough that being in park on the column doesn't move the DTR into the correct position. Try "wiggling" the shifter or try starting in neutral. If that fixes it, slide under and look for the two bolts you see in the picture below. If those are tight, try replacing the DTR.

 

[Schweiger4444]

Had a friend move the shift lever yesterday while i was under checking that. The indicator showed it seating neatly over P,N,R,D etc up top and fine below. Even tried cranking it on neutral to the same failure of injectors not working.

Your responses are greatly appreciated. Please keep them coming!

 

[Schweiger4444]

The key engaged the starter after changing "good" fuses out of desperation. Its the injectors not funtioning now

 

[petwolf]

Ok so now key works. Good. #30 fuse is good under dash? Next step is to check wiring to injectors. Look up KLHansen hardstart for instructions on ohming out injectors at valve covers. if that is good look up procedure for ohming IDM harness.

 

[Schweiger4444]

Ok I will look that up. Injectors were running fine before the engine swap. Fuel is pumping. Oil pressure getting plenty to the resevoir on cranking. Darn shop gremlins!

Thank u all again for your timely responses.

 

[Excavator]

Have a battery charger on it for a while. PCM needs to see 10 volts while cranking or the injectors will not get signal to work

 

[Schweiger4444]

Yes have a battery charger on and two good batteries in.

 

[Excavator]

Yes have a battery charger on and two good batteries in.

I can't stress enough how important that the pcm needs to see that voltage or no injectors will get signal. The ICP needs to also hit 500 psi before injectors will get signal

 

[Schweiger4444]

Understood. Ill check that right now

 

[Schweiger4444]

Getting 12-13 volts and pressure should be good as I replaced the pump.

 

[Excavator]

What pump? Fuel or HPOP pump.
ICP is injector control pressure and if not reaching 500 when cranking you have a leak in hpop system someplace such as injector o-ring broke or you could be just low on oil in the HPOP res from all the cranking

 

[Excavator]

Getting 12-13 volts and pressure should be good as I replaced the pump.

is that voltage while CRANKING OVER ENGINE?

 

[Schweiger4444]

Yes HPOP.

About 12 while cranking yes.

 

[Schweiger4444]

The HPOP waa one of the first things I thought because this engine ran good but started a little hard. Since the engine had to be pulled anyway it got replaced. Friend cranked and I pulled the plug at the top of the oil reservoir. Took about 1/2 second for big stream to hit the inside of the open hood.

Fuel pressure should be ok as well. Fuel filter basket was clean and, upon cranking the motor, with the fuel filter cap off, filled my newly cleaned and painted valley on the motor on about 1-2 seconds and poured a nice big puddle on my shop floor. Lines appear to be holding fuel. No obvious bleed back.

Still double checking wiring. Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Trev

 

[Schweiger4444]

Rechecked fuses under the dash. Pulled fuse #30 for PCM, fuel heater, was fine so replaced it and now my key wont engage the starter again. Put in a new 30a fuse and still the key wont engage the starter again.

 

[Excavator]

Rechecked fuses under the dash. Pulled fuse #30 for PCM, fuel heater, was fine so replaced it and now my key wont engage the starter again. Put in a new 30a fuse and still the key wont engage the starter again.

I would pull cable off starter and wire brush both wire eye and starter stud

 

[Schweiger4444]

The starter is new. All connections are good there. It seems I have an intermitent problem with the ignition key engaging the starter and full time problem with the injectors not functioning.