[NavyRedneck]

My truck is leaking oil, fuel, and coolant. I've fixed the fuel leak by replacing the drain valve o-rings. The coolant is at the water pump gasket so I'm gonna replace it while I've got the coolant drained to replace the oil cooler which is also leaking.

Anyone know an aftermarket source for an oil cooler? The dealer quoted me $250 which seems a lot. I know I could just hope to get the cooler apart and put back together but I bet it is too corroded for that. (already tried Napa and rockauto)

Any help appreciated.

Oh, can anyone also tell me why it is better to switch to the radiator hose going around the serpentine belt vice through it?

 

[action4478]

250.00 not bad & got a reman on E bay for 200....

Is 250 for the assembly?

 

[klhansen]

Oh, can anyone also tell me why it is better to switch to the radiator hose going around the serpentine belt vice through it?

With the outside-the-belt hose, if you ever need to replace the serp belt, you can do it without disturbing ANYTHING else, let alone draining coolant and removing the upper hose.

You could try International for the oil cooler. Don't know if they might have a better price, but it's possible, as you're cutting out the middle-man's (Ford) markup.

 

[fordboyyfm]

yeah that sounds like a pretty good price, but ive never had one that i could replace the orings on, just clean it up with a wire wheel and lube the orings up good and pop it back together.
you sure your pump isnt leaking from the shaft seal?

 

[NavyRedneck]

250.00 not bad & got a reman on E bay for 200....

Is 250 for the assembly?

Yeah, I think it was $250 for the whole cooler plus maybe some more for o-rings. Then labor was gonna be $600 if I remember correctly. The lady that checked me out gave me half of the papers for the quote and tried to keep my car registration.

The timing pump itself is only about 60k miles old and the tech showed me how it is leaking from the gasket itself. This is a truck that spent its entire life in Atlanta and is now experiencing zero degree temperatures here. I didn't have any leaks (fuel, oil, or coolant) two months ago. I also just put on a coolant filtration system so maybe that will help a new airtec water pump last a long time.

While I've got all the coolant drained I will switch out the radiator hose then.

fordboyyfm, did you mean to say that you were always able to pull the cooler apart and put it back together? Is there a technique to that? I thought I read something about it being difficult to get back together. I will also look for an international dealer.

So far this winter, I've put in two new batteries, a GPR, new Warn hubs, new fuel o-rings. Not to mention all the painting of the frame that I did in the fall. And sure enough, anywhere I couldn't get to is now covered in rust from all the salt on the roads. I also wonder if the lighter 10w30 that I switched to IAW ford manual has something to do with the oil leak. The tech at the dealer told me to stay with 15w40.

thanks for all the replies.

 

[NavyRedneck]

is this the part I'm looking for?

eBay Motors: INTERNATIONAL NAVISTAR FORD 7.3 6.9 OILCOOLER FREE S&H (item 170292765154 end time Feb-06-09 18:52:39 PST)

 

[Bill1013]

The oil cooler is easy to rebuild . You can bang the ends off with a rubber mallet. Just use a lot of vasoline on the O'rings when going back together. Mark each end before disassemble . Use a extendable clamp to squeeze back together. Most IH truck dealers have the kit for rebuild, whole lot less than $250. You don't need the one on Ebay. You have to get the kit anyhow . I've rebuilt 4 so far no trouble.

You may have to jack the engine up a couple inches to get it off, and slide in a 2x4 for safety.

Here's some pic's of one off a 90 7.3. I used a leather mallet to beat the ends off. 1st pic.
In fact here's instructions 1996 Bronco/F-Series