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@;I had a post on a turbo whine. Now I am sure it needs to be at least rebuilt. While I have it out and apart I might as well replace the wheels. It has the original parts and 280K mies. I’ll also install a set of bellowed up pipes. So my question is what are the best options. It is mostly a daily driver though I do tow equipment with it and want to keep my EGT low. It has more than enough power as it is with a stock turbo. I want to rebuild it to be strong as possible. I have read that with billet wheels there is an increase in the EGT but will spool faster.

What about a full turbo cartridge already rebuilt with new wheels?

Are ther any links on this topic I can read up on turbos. I have searched up old posts.

What else do I need to know? Special tools? Common mistakes?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I have not seen anything that says billet wills increase the EGT, lots of hype about just about aftermarket part on the truck so I would take it all with a grain of salt. If you can get a balanced center section with new wheels that sounds good. I would get the locking bolts for the center section. Good time to do a regulated fuel return while the turbo is out. Take a good look at the pedestal while turbo is out.
DENNY
 

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Great questions. There are a few step by step instructions out there. Here's one - Welcome to BDrummonds Van Turbo Rebuild Web Page It's for a van, so it doesn't have the wastegate, but the center section is the same.

The exhaust side wheel shouldn't need replacing unless you ran the bearings completely out and scored the shaft. The intake wheel is aluminum and gets chewed up easier. Plus, there are improved versions out there sold by RiffRaff and DieselSite. Stick with those two - there are a ton of "Made in China" knockoffs and you don't want a substandard wheel coming apart on you. Speaking of coming apart, it is MANDATORY to get the rotating assembly balanced as a whole. Yes, the new wheel is balanced, but you will ensure that the entire rotating assembly is completely balance as they will be spinning in the truck if you do this.

As to the kit, I would recommend you get this one - https://barderturboservice.com/products/73l-tp38-gtp38-rebuild-kit-with-360-thrust-upgrade. Make sure and use the pull down box to get the one for your year. Personally, I sent my center section, the rebuild kit, and my new wheel to Arundel Diesel & Performance: Going the Extra Mile | 410-969-3399 and had the unit balance and assemble the new parts. That way, the same guy who makes the scribe marks on the intake wheel and shaft is the one lining them back up. I figured that would be the most accurate approach. Then, I can reassemble the turbo and install it. I actually bought a used center section from another member who had gone the cartridge route so I have mine sitting in a box waiting for me to do my 250K tune-up.

I also bought a new wastegate as that's one of the weakest parts of the turbo. I went with this one. https://www.dieselsite.com/19995-2003ford73lpsdwastegatecontroller.aspx Yes, it's a bit pricey, but I am convinced it's going to be worth every penny.

Like Denny said, get a new install kit. The one from Diesel O-Rings is the one I chose. Turbo Re-Install Kit - GTP38 He also has the bellowed up pipes and anything else you could ever need for a 7.3

Living in an area where cold weather is a brief event, I am eliminating my EBPV. I bought the pedestal and exhaust outlet for that. I'm also going to wrap my up pipes on my bellowed kit when I do it. Nick wrote a thread about that. https://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f25/bd-stainless-bellowed-up-pipe-kit-wrapped-446922/
 

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Billet wheels do not cause more heat, in fact they cause less heat. I put a Riffraff whicked wheel on my stock turbo and it was a great improvement. In fact I kept the turbo in case I ever got another truck, that's how much I liked it. I have upgraded to the ball bearing model now, with the new whicked wheel installed at Garret. Its a massive improvement.
 

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Absolute garret doesn’t sell a 38r with a billet wheel. If it has a billet wheel and wasn’t balanced it’s going to fail prematurely from inbalance.

I do agree the riffraff billet wheels are a great upgrade. I’ve used the harder 360 kit with great results in my old turbo.
 

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Absolute garret doesn’t sell a 38r with a billet wheel. If it has a billet wheel and wasn’t balanced it’s going to fail prematurely from inbalance.

I do agree the riffraff billet wheels are a great upgrade. I’ve used the harder 360 kit with great results in my old turbo.


Its a GTP 38R , with a billet wheel. If you buy from Riffraff (Maybe I bought it at DP Tuner, cant recall) they supply an option for the billet wheel from factory. Either way, its a beauty, and has a billet wheel from factory. Came in the factory box, unopened. Drop shipped. My old turbo I put it on myself, and it was pre balanced. Since the shaft never came out , the rest and other side was already balance. Its also a beauty, I loved it , but with my upgrades it was prone to burn out eventually. So needed the ball bearing turbo. Thanks for your opinion though.
 

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Its billet, and ceramic coated. Piece of art .When I bought it , it was an option, appears its now standard on that model. Same price though.
 

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Where can I buy a turbo like you describe?
If you want it ceramic coated you have to get it from Riffraff. I believe they are the only ones to offer that. Everything else is standard now for that turbo, and lots of dealers sell the GTP 38R
 

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When I rebuilt my turbo I used the Garrett rebuild kit with the 270 degree bearing and the Riffraff billet wheel. Runs great and cured my surge.

As for special tools you will need to have a 1/4" drive 12-point 8mm socket otherwise you will not be able to remove the backing plate bolts. I also had a small Tupperware container with a pool of fresh oil to soak parts in before install. The rest is pretty straight forward. If you want to see what it entails here are good write-ups depending on which kit you go with:

270 degree bearing: https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/content/RESOURCES/Riffraff_Diesel_GTP38_Rebuild_Instructions.pdf

360 degree bearing: https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/content/RESOURCES/Riffraff Diesel 99.5-03 GTP38 360 degree Rebuild Instructions.pdf
 

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When I rebuilt my turbo I used the Garrett rebuild kit with the 270 degree bearing and the Riffraff billet wheel. Runs great and cured my surge.

As for special tools you will need to have a 1/4" drive 12-point 8mm socket otherwise you will not be able to remove the backing plate bolts. I also had a small Tupperware container with a pool of fresh oil to soak parts in before install. The rest is pretty straight forward. If you want to see what it entails here are good write-ups depending on which kit you go with:

270 degree bearing: https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/content/RESOURCES/Riffraff_Diesel_GTP38_Rebuild_Instructions.pdf

360 degree bearing: https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/content/RESOURCES/Riffraff Diesel 99.5-03 GTP38 360 degree Rebuild Instructions.pdf

Did you have to balance it? LOL. Some members think the kits will prematurely fail if not balance. Hahahaha. Just curious. Ive never had to balance one, since the pieces all come balanced. LOL. Not sure how you could make them unbalanced by installing them. Any way, for all you who are scared to do these kits because of balancing scares. No worries. None of the kits require any balancing, and all the rotating parts come balanced. Even if you purchased all the pieces from different vendors, all the rotating pieces get balanced at the time they are built. Any premature failure claims were because of poor installation, not balancing. Heres an analogy for you. When you pull your wheels off to check your brakes, do you take all your wheels in and get them rebalanced ? hahahaha, No you don't , because there already balanced most likely before you took them off. Even if you moved there position like rotating. YOur turbo is the same. If you buy a balance part, its balanced. Its not going to fall out of balance because you installed it. So get the kit, be nice and clean , take your time, pre lube everything, and enjoy your billet wheel or rebuild. Don't be scared by none sense.
 

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The parts come from the factory unit balanced. That means the exhaust and intake side were together when they were balanced. The tech then scribes the intake wheel and shaft and then reassembles the wheels and shaft in the turbo. When you take your intake wheel off and put a different one on - even if it is perfectly balanced - the unit may no longer be balanced. Using your analogy, it would be like having a tire and wheel assembly balanced and then changing the tire with a perfectly balanced tire (minus the wheel). Then when you reassemble the unit, it may not be perfectly balanced anymore. That's because some of the weights on the wheel were there to offset the previous tire. Same with the turbo. The exhaust side may have had some weight removed to help balance the intake side. Now, with a new, perfectly balanced wheel it is no longer balanced as a whole. And that's no none sense.
 
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I have added a wicked wheel to one of my trucks in the past. Just spin it off and and stick on the new one. If having a complete balance unit was a big issue we would have heard about it with the number of wicked wheels out in service. If I could get a balance unit that is what I would do, if not take what you can get.
DENNY
 

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I have added a wicked wheel to one of my trucks in the past. Just spin it off and and stick on the new one. If having a complete balance unit was a big issue we would have heard about it with the number of wicked wheels out in service. If I could get a balance unit that is what I would do, if not take what you can get.
DENNY

Yup, your right, no balancing required. The pieces are not balanced together, and are mass produced, balanced then assembled. Same pieces go in your kit. Exhaust side and shaft are balanced, intake is balanced, then they are assembled. In fact, at factory, the assembler has a box of exhaust sides, and a box of intakes. He grabs one of each and assembles them with the rest of the parts. His example of changing the tire is just plain stupid, since the wheel is balanced with the tire, not separate. To make his theory work, you'd have to cut a new billet whicked wheel, then not balance it before shipping. Which doesn't happen. SO just like putting on a whicked wheel, it comes complete and balanced, your stock shaft is already balanced. doesn't matter which way you slide it on, its balanced. No scribing at all. That's all made up and bull. Install away, no balancing required. And if you change a tire, make sure to balance it with the rim on, not like RT. Bahahahaha, As said, all failures were bad installs, nothing to do with balancing. So if RT had a failure, he did a bad install, it was balanced perfectly from the factory, and its physically impossible for it to be unbalanced unless damaged or tampered with. Don't be scared guys. Slap that wheel on there and enjoy. The skys not falling.
 

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Obviously, you didn't read completely or maybe just didn't understand what I said. No, I've never had a failure. I know Googs did. He's a competent mechanic and his blew out in the middle of Australia.

My point was the parts are unit balanced. That information came from Garrett. Now, you obviously know better than the manufacturer since you know exactly how they assemble them and they don't. But, if you want to believe the guys that actually put them together, they are balanced TOGETHER as a unit. My analogy was like a tire and wheel are balanced TOGETHER. If you take a tire off a balanced assembly and then put a perfectly balanced tire back on that wheel, you can't expect the ASSEMBLY to still be balanced. Nowhere did I suggest that I would do that. It was an example. Of course, you have to be capable of abstract thought to process that, so I'm sorry if it blew by you.

Now - as a n=1 study, I did have my brand new balanced wheel installed on my existing exhaust shaft and then had that assembly balanced. They had to remove 0.17 grams to get it balanced. Now, that doesn't seem like a lot until you get in the 20,000 RPM range. Now according to your superior knowledge, they wouldn't have had to balance it at all.
 
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Keep it civil, guys. Different opinions are OK, but personal shots are not. :nono:

Thanks
 

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I balanced mine when I added a billet wheel upgrade, I didn't when I used the same wheels as was stock. For me it was cheap insurance and peace of mind. Some folks live life differently, to each his own.
 
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