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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I have a 1991 7.3 Ford Dually, 201,000 miles. My problem is my truck takes about 45 seconds to start. First I warm the glow plugs, then turn off the ignition, then do it again and crank the starter for bout 15 sec then wait about 30 seconds and do it again then it finally starts with white smoke comming out of the exhaust. I changed the positive battery cable and the guy who had it before me changed the glow plugs (I do not know what brand). It just seems that it is a lot of cranking on the starter. It seems that someone is going to suggest rebuilding the IP but can it be something else? It runs excellent after it starts.

thanks to all
 

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Your doing the start sequence wrong........

Turn the key on when the WTS (wait to start ) light goes out start the engine, the clicking noise you may hear is the GP controller cycleing the GPs to eliminate smoke. If the light goes out in less than 8 seconds check your GPs for condition..... If you do not know how to test GPs.........ask here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My bad, here is my sequence

Turn the key on untill the WTS light goes off, the glow plugs cycle and then I turn it off. (If I try to start it here I will just crank the motor for about 30 seconds, I don't want to kill my battery so turn if off) I use this step to try and "preheat the glow plugs" but I do not think that is working. I think the heat of compression is starting the engine b/c I then turn the key on again and wait for the WTS to go out then crank the engine for about 20-30 seconds then it starts. The glow plugs seem to be cycling but I guess I do not know whether they are heating up.
 

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If your glow plugs are working properly, you should be able to let them run for 5 - 6 seconds, then crank the engine and it will start right up. The engine needs to be cranked WHILE the glow plugs are ON. If the glow plugs are cycling off before 5 - 6 seconds, then there is a problem with the plugs or the controller.

Wiring in a manual pushbutton switch was the best thing I did for my starting. Of course, I have two known inoperable glow plugs, so I guess the best thing would have been to replace all of them...

To manually control the controller, you run a wire to the same terminal of the relay that has the small white wire on it, run it through a pushhbutton switch, and the other end of the wire to GROUND. The controller is cycled by switching the ground rather than the power side....
 

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Since no one has mentioned it, I will. Buy Beru glow plugs. DO NOT BUY AUTOLITE PLUGS!

For long starting I'd start with the glow plugs. My WTS light stays on for about 14 seconds. When I have one burned out GP it drops to about 7-8 seconds, when I have 2 burned out it drops to about 2 seconds and I decide to deal with it. Test your GPs with an ohm meter, you should have about .8 - 1 ohm from the connection point to ground (I used the block for ground). You don't have to take the GPs out to test them, just remove the power lead to get access to the top. If all your GPs check out fine I'd start looking for an air leak. I had one that only caused trouble when I parked on a steep incline for a long period and the fuel slowly drained back into the tank. If you can't find an air leak remove your fuel lift pump and replace it with a blank plate, put an electric fuel pump in back near the tanks, then your air leaks will become fuel leaks and be easy to find. Electric fuel pump also makes it easier to change your fuel filter.


Everything I know about these truck I learned here.


CQLF is an FSS?
 

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Are your batteries up to the job? Have you tested the starter? Does it seem to be cranking a little slow? There are several different size starters, (Frame Diam.) which require different amperage. If you measure the frame, I can tell you normal current draw and normal cranking speed (RPMs) Just a thought. Tim

I would say that a FSS is a Fuel Shutoff Solenoid
 

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If the fuel shutoff were not connected, your truck would never start (or never shut off if it was stuck open). The wire you have disconnected is either for the cold start advance, or the high idle. Most likely the cold start advance, since it looks the same as the fuel shutoff solenoid.

The fuel advance..... um, advances the timing for cold starts and running. SOOOO, hook it back up and give it a whirl...

Ya know, sometimes people do crazy things like thinking that if they disconnect things, it will make their vehicle run better.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It seemed to be craking a little slow so I put the charger on the the batteries all night, then this morning is was still slow. Had the batteries checked this morning and now I'm thinking the starter is dragging a little but I am still going to replace all of the glow plugs and be done with it. When I turn on the key the WTS light only stays on for about 5 sec then it starts to cycle.

thanks all
 

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With a 5 sec WTS light I would suspect a glow plug or two.
 

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So... who's a good source for the Beru GPs?

Mine is acting much the same way, about 2 seconds on the WTS light and then it goes out and I hear the controller clicking as it cycles. I'm getting about a 20-30 second crank before she fires, with the same white smoke. Giving her partial throttle when cold - maybe 50%. She fires RIGHT NOW when warm...

Jim
 

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the Beru's can be baught at any AutoZone (for sure) or O'rieley's (i think)............$8.99 each dependin on your location............Gibson
 

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[ QUOTE ]
So... who's a good source for the Beru GPs?

Mine is acting much the same way, about 2 seconds on the WTS light and then it goes out and I hear the controller clicking as it cycles. I'm getting about a 20-30 second crank before she fires, with the same white smoke. Giving her partial throttle when cold - maybe 50%. She fires RIGHT NOW when warm...

Jim

[/ QUOTE ]
Autozone for Beru/Motorcraft glow Plugs. If the GPs are workingcorrectly, your batteries are fully charged and the starter spins fast enough you should only need to crank it <font color="red">2 or 3 seconds</font>, especially this time of year. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gifBaja
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Pulled all of the glow plugs out and found 4 Beru's 2 Autolites, and 2 Japaneses something. Also found out two gp wires were not even connected. WTS light stays on for about six seconds but cannot start it yet b/c I broke two injector cap's (fuel return hose barbs) and I guess they are dealer only item. anybody know?
 
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