[goldenboy]

Hi this is my first post.
Have decided that I need a bigger truck(than current V6 Dakota), as I recently bought a bigger camper trailer. Now hauling up mountain passes at 80km (50mph)in second gear at 4000rpm. Fuel economy 13mpg.

Two options so far, local dealer has a 2000 7.3L F250 Superduty with 113,000 km. for $24,000CDN.

Also a neighbor has a 1995 7.3L with 235,000, asking 13,500. It needs new frong springs.

Are there any know problems with the 1995, which are solved in the 2000 model? What about fuel economy?

Also is there a way to track down recalls issued?

I doubt if this is a very exciting issue to all you expert motorheads out there, but any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[JakeSpoon]

super pleased with my truck, but as for fuel economy... well, I get 14.2 city 16.5 hwy and pulling cattle trailer - 9

 

[short_stuff]

Welcome to The Diesel Stop, Goldenboy. You've come to the right place to get your diesel questions answered.
I can't speak for the 1995 truck, but I have a 2000 F-250, 2wd, Lariate, automatic, 7.3l, CC, short bed.
Assuming the 2000 truck you are referring to has similar packages as mine, and is in great shape, the Kelly Blue book shows the dealer price being right at $23,000USD, which is around $25530CDN. So, price wise, it is slightly less than it could be.
The Private Party value shows the truck being $20,085USD, if it is in excellent condition, or $22,295CDN. (If my conversion numbers are correct). So if it is a truck you are interested in, you might make an offer of $23000CDN and see if they take it.
I would want to see the maintennance records on it, and have Ford provide you with a list of any the warranty work performed on it.
You can also have the dealership run an OASIS report on it.
Also, look for signs of the truck being heavily used, as in pulling large trailers, or the bed being extremely beat up from loading materials in it. Also, assuming it is a Lariate, look at the interior leather to see if it has been kept up.
Check to see if it has been chipped. If it has a chip in it, check to see if there are guages in it.
Does it have the standard size tires, or did someone upgrade to larger tires and wheels. If they did, and the speedometer wasn't adjusted for it, this could through the registered mileage off.
Have the dealer check the diffential fluid, and make sure that they have performed a transmission fluid and filter change, oil and oil filter change, fuel filter change, and air filter change.
Have the batteries been changed in it? If not, that would be one of the first things I would do if I were going to purchase it.
The 2000 model trucks had very few problems with it. My truck has never been back to the dealer for any work, although I have had a dripping rear pinion seal. But I've learned to live with it.
See if the dealer can get you in touch with the previous owner.
Hope this helps you make a good, informed decision.
There is a ton of information on this website available to you for any mods that you might want to make, what oils to use, what your mpg should be, what chips you should use (if you decide to use one), and how much weight you should tow. As with everything else, everyone has an opinion.

 

[NCHornet]

I agree with everything said above. I too have a Y2K that has been problem free except for crappy rotors (fixed now) and a leeaky rear pinion seal,( must have been a bad year for pinion seals) $130 done by Ford.
If it had a chip without guages runaway.
If it has a K&N filter in it, runaway.
Pull the intake off the tugo and look at the turbo fins, if they are chewed up or rounded off it means dirt has gotten in it, grap the turbo wheel, there should be no play in it.
I would prefer the 2000 over the 1995 for the price difference.But just like with everything else on wheels it all depends on maintenance. 130K on a well maintained 7.3 is nothing, but on a poorly maintained unit, it could be almost dead???
I would make sure I had an Oasis report.

 

[helcat2]

I too agree with everything that has been said to this point. Personally I'd go for the 2000. I have a 99 with over 278,000 miles and it doesn't burn a drop of oil and gives me 17mpg mixed driving. The big difference between the 95 and the 2000 will be the intercooler. My brother had a 95 and pulled a 35 foot camper trailer with it right over the Blue Ridge Mountains no strain no pain. The 2000 with the intercooler will walk on the 95 and the SD trucks (they started in 99) are much more roomy inside the cab than the 95's. Personally, I think the peak of the PS diesels was between 99 and late 2002, just before they went to the 6.0. Whichever you buy, it will be a far cry from what you are used to. You'll get spoiled real quick. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif
Brad

 

[cschieck2002]

Check the front ball joints! About $1500 USD to fix. Tires will be "cupping" on the front end- don't let them tell you its from the tires being out of balance- it's the ball joints.

 

[benco57]

[ QUOTE ]
Check the front ball joints! About $1500 USD to fix. Tires will be "cupping" on the front end- don't let them tell you its from the tires being out of balance- it's the ball joints.

[/ QUOTE ]

My 2000 PSD (sold now) front tire started cupping at about 20,000 miles
new shocks fixed it. And the very samething on my 2003. So it is not always the ball joints.

 

[Blackcloud2k]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Check the front ball joints! About $1500 USD to fix. Tires will be "cupping" on the front end- don't let them tell you its from the tires being out of balance- it's the ball joints.

[/ QUOTE ]

My 2000 PSD (sold now) front tire started cupping at about 20,000 miles
new shocks fixed it. And the very samething on my 2003. So it is not always the ball joints.

[/ QUOTE ]

2000 is a good year. In most cases a 2000 will not have the PMR's (which is a good thing). Like people have said. How the truck was cared for is the big thing. So get all the information you can on the trucks before making offers.