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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy,
Long story short, I have a '89 7.3 IDI with a blown head gasket that was sitting in my garage for 2 years.
I put it on a stand and pulled the heads off.
The #2 cylinder had some rusted out coolant.
A couple questions.
With both heads off, should I be able to turn the crank from the pulley bolt in front?
The #2 sleve had some rust from where the coolant leaked down from the blown gasket.
I was able to wire brush almost everything in just a couple minutes, and have everything soaking in some PB Blaster until I post this question, then go back out.
Not expecting this engine to have to last long, maybe 1000 miles, and I'll be installing a Cummings 12 valve with all new running gear.
I picked up a gasket set and new pushrods.
Is there anything else I need to be aware of?
Have never opened up a diesel before, but race motorcycles, and have done several hotrods.

I do not know any diesel guys, and an hoping this forum will be able to help fill in the massive blanks.

Thanks
 

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With both heads off, should I be able to turn the crank from the pulley bolt in front?
Yep.
The #2 sleve had some rust from where the coolant leaked down from the blown gasket.
That commonly happens. Since you're not wanting the engine to last too long, your cleaning method should be OK.
Have never opened up a diesel before, but race motorcycles, and have done several hotrods.
Internal repairs on these small diesels aren't much different than a gas engine. Since the engine's in a stand, depending on how bad the rust is and if you wanted it to last best procedure would be to pull out that rod and piston and clean up the cylinder with a glaze breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep.

That commonly happens. Since you're not wanting the engine to last too long, your cleaning method should be OK.

Internal repairs on these small diesels aren't much different than a gas engine. Since the engine's in a stand, depending on how bad the rust is and if you wanted it to last best procedure would be to pull out that rod and piston and clean up the cylinder with a glaze breaker.
I've been told I shouldn't pull the pistons unless I'm willing to have the crank machined and install new bearings.
Pulled the oil pan plug and lost of glycol came out.
Hoping there isnt any rust when I pull the pan.
 

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You don't have to automatically grind the crank. I have had lots of cranks polished after micing the journals and finding them in spec. Installed new std bearings and called it good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
rolled the engine over and pulled the oil pan.
The water/oil mix is gross as heck, but I think it will just wipe off.
I'll take the sump and soak in a carb tank.
The underside of the pistons look good.
Gonna try to pull the rod bearing caps and free up the crank.
I'm supposed to install it this weekend.
Have a shop, a couple friends, and a backhoe to hoist it.





sheesh, I quit.
Spent an hour making copies of the picture so that the server would take it, and now it's too small to see.
This IS a diesel truck forum after all, what kind of posters to they expect? ...lol
 

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I've been told I shouldn't pull the pistons unless I'm willing to have the crank machined and install new bearings.
As Chuckster pointed out, that's goofy advice, you don't turn a crank unless it needs it and diesel cranks are abnormally tough and long-lasting. And like any engine, you'd replace rod and main brgs. if needed.
 

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To "help" you overcome your nervosness about pulling apart a diesel engine apart I would like to give you some advise an old friend of mine passed on to me. The crank shaft goes round and round, the pistons go up and down, and they all come apart and go together one bolt at a time. Having said that get a good repair manuel, and dig in. Follow torque specs, and clearance specs. You should be just fine. Also to parrot LMJD, and Chck machine work ONLY as needed. That includes the valves.
 
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