[ibefishing20]

Ok so I've got several threads on here about my 05 f250. Had a hot no start problem to start. Did the stc fitting, stand pipes, dummy plugs and coolant hose on the egr cooler. Fixed my hot no start problem, then I started a whole new set of problems. Turbo wasn't working and I was having tones of codes. Got lots of advice on where to start and what to do, checked map sensor, that it was plugged in, checked map sensor hose, that it was plugged in at right spot and not clogged up. Pulled out egr sensor, cleaned it. Took out vgt sensor from turbo and checked/cleaned it. Checked ebp sensor and tube. Tube was un clogged and I have now replaced the ebt sensor and connector/pig tail. Truck was running ok but now while driving it has started surging, stalling, lunging forward and just loosing power as if it's about to just die in the middle of the highway. While it's doing this it is pouring heavy white/grayish smoke out the pipe and when I try to give it some fuel, it turns to a heavy dark gray/black smoke. It will do this for a few miles then finally start running normal, what ever that is for my truck now. I feel like I'm playing whack a mole with it, fix one thing and something else pops up.. I'm about ready to just torch it.. It's turned into a money pit...I've had it for about a year with no problems until the hot no start started. It's only got about 98k on it. The main codes it keeps throwing right now are -0472/0671. Other codes it has thrown are-0299/0470/2262. Any help/advice, recommendations for exorcist/torcher will greatly be appreciated.

 

[worldwide73]

I throw these at you..

Check EGR valve if you still have one..

Check FICM Voltage.. both key on, starting, and running should be at or near 48volts

Check turbo.. sound like you may have stuck turbo veins..

 

[2 Stroker]

You are starting to know this truck like the back of your hand.
From these it looks like egr valve and turbo problems i may be wrong but look on about page 62 hope it helps
http://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/subsites/diag/2003-25-Book.pdf
P0299 Turbocharger/Supercharger "A" Underboost Condition
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit
P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit Low
P0671 Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit / Open
P2262 Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Pressure Not Detected - Mechanical
2 stroker:ford:

 

[ryqster]

Hey 2Stroker...is that tech service booklet available for the 05 model year???

 

[teamroper60]

Hey 2Stroker...is that tech service booklet available for the 05 model year???

Yep. Right here.

 

[03powerstrokeuser]

just throwing this at ya...have you load tested both batts... bad ones can cause you all kids of headaches code wise and do funky things with the electrorics so to speak...then I would disconnect the icp sensor to see if the default setting changes anything...b

 

[ryqster]

That is so cool...thanks a bunch teamroper.

 

[ryqster]

03PSUSER Yeah....I had Optima red tops (IMHO not the best battery for this application). One of them was much worse off than the other. Replaced them both and all seems to be happy in the neighborhood.

 

[ibefishing20]

Ok so I'm mechanically inclined but not so much electrically inclined. How do I go about testing the ficm. I assume with a voltage meter, where is this at and how and where do I stick it or clamp onto it at. As far as the turbo, I believe I am going to go ahead and pull it and take it apart and clean and inspect it. As far as the egr sensor, I still do have one. I have taken it out and cleaned it to like new cleanliness. Is there a way to test it and ensure it is working properly. Also the vgt sensor in the turbo, is there a way to test/check it. I had read some where where if it were out it would cause the truck to blow white smoke and run bad. When the truck is acting posessed it is pouring out white/gray smoke. And then the last sensor mentioned or suggested was the icp sensor. Is there a way to test/check it. I replaced the ipr sensor, on top of the hoop, while I did the stc fitting. When I pull the turbo I will unplug it and check the clip for oil. So just a recap for the last month or so- stc fitting, ipr valve, egr coolant hose and o-rings in the housing, stand pipes, dummy plugs, new ebp sensor and connector/pig tail, pulled egr sensor and cleaned, pulled vbt sensor and checked/cleaned, ensured map sensor was plugged in correctly and air line was unclogged and going to correct fitting. Made sure ebt tube was not clogged, ran a diag on system, was showing my ebt sensor was every where so I checked connector and it was corroded from coolant so it was replaced. All this started with a hot no start problem. Have had the truck for a little over a year with no problems till now. Any and all help and prayers will be greatly appreciated.

 

[ex mounty]

Sorry to hear that your gremlins are still with you.
This is off the Swampsdiesel website. They have the best reputation out there for rebuilding FICM's:

How to check my FICM voltage with a multimeter or voltmeter



***FICM voltage tests should be performed with the engine oil COLD (ie, close to ambient air temperature). This will force the FICM into it's inductive heating strategy, which will give you a worse case scenario/voltage reading. If the engine has been run (within 5-6 hours of this test), then the warm engine oil may not give you an accurate FICM voltage.

On all 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engines you will find the FICM bolted to the drivers side valve cover...you may need to unbolt the coolant reservoir from the 'cowl' so that you can get your arms/hands back there to work on the FICM.

You don't need to drain the coolant...just unbolt the bracket that hold the coolant reservoir, and gently move it as far out of your way as possible. Be careful, as there is a plastic coolant connector that can be cracked if the coolant jug is handled forcefully.

On the top of the FICM, you will see a diamond/oval shaped metal plate...remove the two screws from that plate (Torx#20).

under that plate you will either see 7 "lugs"...or 4 "lugs" (depending on the year of the truck)...

if you have a "7 lug FICM"...you want to put one lead from your multimeter onto the upper left "lug"...and the other multimeter probe to ground (bare spot on the cylinder head, alternator bracket, negative battery terminal, etc).

If you have a "4 lug FICM"...you will want to check the lug on the right (closest to the drivers side fender).

be careful NOT to lean the probe on the FICM lug...over onto the aluminum case...you might let the smoke out, LOL...

Have someone turn the key to the 'on' position (don't crank it yet)...and see what your FICM voltage is. It should be >46volts.

Next have someone crank the engine...and see what the FICM voltage is while cranking...again..should be >46volts.

Go ahead and start the engine...and see what the voltage is while idling.

If the FICM voltage drops below 46 volts...then it is "bad"...

we have seen FICM's as low as 17volts...some 19v's...some in the twenty's and low thirties...

obviously...the lower the voltage...the 'worse' the FICM is...and the more likely that (cold) rough running would be a result of a bad FICM.

however..if you email (or call) us and say that your FICM is dropping to 43-44volts...while low..I think that you may have some underlying injector issues that may be contributing to your cold rough running, as much as the slightly low voltage FICM

You can email any questions to [email protected] ; however, if your voltage IS low...then your FICM is bad, and you can place an order at the following link. Swamp's Webstore - Custom Electronics

due to the high demand of our (48v &/or 58v) Heavy Duty FICM's, we are typically running 2 days behind on current orders...if you need express delivery, please make a note in the comments section during your online checkout, and we will call you with shipping options and rate quotes.

 

[Redneck Fiber Works]

Stroker and Roper, thank you for the link. Bookmarked for future use.

 

[ibefishing20]

well thanks to ex-mounty for the as always awesome post of info, and thanks to everyone else who has posted helpful info on here for me.. ex mounty has been helping me through this from the very beginning...thanks for the great info on the ficm.. as far as the turbo, if the vanes were sticking, would it be intermittent ? also it seems as if my turbo pressure is all over the place.. is there a way to test the other sensors as far as the map sensor, vgt, egr to ensure that they are working.. and as far as the smoke and all,,, any ideas ?..

 

[ex mounty]

The information is out here, I just happen to know where it is. Thank those that post it for all to see. I just have a good memory as to where it all is.

The vanes could be sticking on an intermittent basis, resulting in weird boost numbers.
Ford/International sells a reconditioning kit to clean out the exhaust side of the turbo. It comes with everything you need (at least the International version does, I have not seem the Ford kit). You will have to remove it from the truck and split it open. Be careful to mark everything so that it goes back together in the exact same orientation. That includes the clamp that holds it together and where the gap of the clamp falls. I did not mark the unison ring and it took me a few minutes to figure out exactly how that went back on. If you move that little actuator arm you might have to do a "relearn" for that.

If you have an International dealer near you the part number is 1171871R2. If not, Ford might be able to cross the number for you.
I will look into testing those sensors and post back what I find later.

 

[Redneck Fiber Works]

If you move that little actuator arm you might have to do a "relearn" for that.

AHA! I knew there had to be some sort of relearning procedure. I can't find any info regarding this, though. Google > Me, I suppose.

 

[ex mounty]

Its really just a KAM reset.
Disconnect all battery cables from batteries.
Cross neg/pos cables.
Leave it 20 minutes.
Uncross the cables and reconnect to batteries.
Drive truck for 20 minutes on a mixed route

The turbo cam will reset on its own, given a little time anyway, from what I have read.

 

[Redneck Fiber Works]

Gotcha. So, basically a complete ECU/TCU "reset". Will try this later on today, see what happens.

Thanks.

 

[ex mounty]

Quoted from the manual:

The MAP sensor is a variable capacitor sensor that is supplied a 5 volt reference signal by the PCM and returns a voltage signal to the PCM relative to the intake manifold pressure. The sensor voltage increases as the pressure increases. The MAP sensor allows the PCM to determine the engine boost to calculate fuel quantity. In addition, The MAP signal is used to control smoke by limiting fuel quantity during acceleration until a specified boost pressure is obtained, and is used by the PCM for EGR system calculations and control.

So, given this information, a multimeter could be used to check its operation.
Also it makes me think that given the weird behavior, maybe the nipple is slightly clogged on the intake? Just one more thing that may be nothing, but at least you can cross it off the list.

The electronic VGT control valve is a 4 way proportional hydraulic flow control valve with a closed center position. The valve controls the linear actuator position of a closed loop hydraulic servo by charging and venting the flow on both sides of a piston. Linear displacement feedback from the actuator varies a feedback spring force to move the valve spool to the center closed position when the actuator reaches the desired position. Therefore, the actuator position is dependent only on the control valve current, it is independent of the hydraulic fluid temperature and viscosity.

If I am reading this right, then it matters not if you move that cam as the current would correct the positioning of the cam.???..

The EGR valve controls the amount of exhaust gases recirculated back to the intake. It is a proportional solenoid with a built-in position sensor. The valve position sensor is needed to give the control circuit feedback to achieve the desired travel position. The valve position sensor is a variable resistance pintle poition sensor that makes position measurements of the exhaust gas recirculation valve control actuator. Input signals from the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, exhaust pressure (EP) sensor, and barometric (BARO) sensors are used by the PCM to calculate and control the EGR system flow.

The barometric sensor is part of the equation too.

The BARO sensor is a variable capacitor sensor that processes a signal indicating atmospheric pressure. This allows the PCM to compensate for altitude. The PCM uses this information to calculate injection timing and glow plug control. The BARO sensor is located behind the lower steering column opening finish panel.
A BARO sensor fault results in an out-of-range signal to the PCM.

Would this "out-of-range" signal set a trouble code?


Ok, those are the definitions and how they are used by the PCM.
I'm still looking into testing procedures.........

 

[ex mounty]

From what is written in the manual, if you had an issue with the VGT, you would get a trouble code. (P0046)

I went back and looked up your codes you listed above (first post):

P0472: Exhaust pressure sensor low input

P0671: Cylinder 1 glow plug circuit
Those are the "old" codes that I remember from the past. Are you still getting these now?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P0299: Turbocharger underboost (pinpoint test KA)
P0470: Exhaust pressure sensor (pinpoint test X)
P2262: Turbo/supercharger Boost Pressure Not Detected (pinpoint test KA)

Since we have two codes with the same pinpoint test, we go there first.

The first thing that this pinpoint calls for is to eliminate the MAP sensor as the culprit.
You will need to have an accurate pressure gauge (able to read down to the tenth of a pound of applied pressure), be able to apply and maintain metered air pressure to the MAP sensor and measure voltage output signal from the MAP sensor down to .02 volts.
(+/- 0.3 volt from the expected voltage reading is allowed)

Expected readings are as follows:

VOLTS ---------------- kPa ------------------------- psi
---------------------------------------------------------------------
0.02----------------------- 20 -------------------------- 2.9
---------------------------------------------------------------------
0.5 --------------------- 50 -------------------------- 7.25
---------------------------------------------------------------------
0.92 ------------------- 76.6 ------------------------ 11.1
----------------------------------------------------------------------
3.8 ------------------- 255.9 ------------------------ 37.1
----------------------------------------------------------------------
4.49 ------------------ 299 -------------------------- 43.4
----------------------------------------------------------------------
5 --------------------- 300 -------------------------- 43.5
----------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[2 Stroker]

Ok so I'm mechanically inclined but not so much electrically inclined. How do I go about testing the ficm. I assume with a voltage meter, where is this at and how and where do I stick it or clamp onto it at. As far as the turbo, I believe I am going to go ahead and pull it and take it apart and clean and inspect it. As far as the egr sensor, I still do have one. I have taken it out and cleaned it to like new cleanliness. Is there a way to test it and ensure it is working properly. Also the vgt sensor in the turbo, is there a way to test/check it. I had read some where where if it were out it would cause the truck to blow white smoke and run bad. When the truck is acting posessed it is pouring out white/gray smoke. And then the last sensor mentioned or suggested was the icp sensor. Is there a way to test/check it. I replaced the ipr sensor, on top of the hoop, while I did the stc fitting. When I pull the turbo I will unplug it and check the clip for oil. So just a recap for the last month or so- stc fitting, ipr valve, egr coolant hose and o-rings in the housing, stand pipes, dummy plugs, new ebp sensor and connector/pig tail, pulled egr sensor and cleaned, pulled vbt sensor and checked/cleaned, ensured map sensor was plugged in correctly and air line was unclogged and going to correct fitting. Made sure ebt tube was not clogged, ran a diag on system, was showing my ebt sensor was every where so I checked connector and it was corroded from coolant so it was replaced. All this started with a hot no start problem. Have had the truck for a little over a year with no problems till now. Any and all help and prayers will be greatly appreciated.

Here this will work also.

2 stroker:ford:

 

[ibefishing20]

ok so tomorrow im going to get into it again and test the map sensor, the ficm and all and hopefully pull the turbo and take it apart and check it and clean it and all.. a question about the turbo.. when i was doing the original work on the truck, and was removing the turbo, my mechanic friend that was helping me, i think he may have loosened the v-clamp band on the center of the turbo and then tightened it back... but im not sure if he put it back in the right or same place as it was when he loosened it... if he didnt put this band back in the same exact place would this cause a problem.. is there a good place to find directions/instructions with pictures of course, of how to take the turbo apart and what and where to clean and how.. and i had read on some post about reprogramming the turbo or something by taking the battery cables off of the batteries and i guess touching the pos and neg cables together for a amount of time and then reattach the cables onto the batteries and this reprograms the turbo or some something to do with the turbo.. do i need a rebuild kit for the turbo or should i just be able to take it apart and rebuild it with all original parts..any secrets or inside info on this or things i should do or not do.. thanks for the help guys...